Real Fiero Tech

So I just spent like 2 hours writting and going through and posting pics
then I went to post it and it asked for my password again and I lost it all!
SON OF A BITCH!
Ill try again I started with Donks car Took all the stuff I wanted and put
my stuff in the indy, ie; suspention brakes and my old turboed 2.8
After selling the indy and stuff I didnt want, nearly broke even.
I did alot of research on figured out what the plan was before I got the indy. But shortly after it took on a life of its own.... as good builds usually do
My car is a 86 GT was a 4sp with a ok first build, I think but wasnt really happy with it.

And on the the dohc pics!
SO when I got it I took apart the dohc for specs on pistons and rods and crank, head studs and gaskets.
I put it back together and in the car for mock up.

Paxton pump, same as the areomotive A1000

Sumped the gas tank

All stainless headers and y pipe, equal length and flow tested ( including
the y pipe)


Removed the trunk and added a strut tower brace

Y pipe mock up

Collectors and v band clamps

I love the parker store! haha oil filter relocator and cooler

i have those same collectors. someone spent some money :) looking great so far man. keep it coming!

1/2" custom fuel rails and lines, parker store again..

Makin round pipe square, and the flange I made


extra bracing for the 55lb power enhancing device

The jackshaft and extra engine mount, there is one on the other side,
stock from the lumina and the oil filter mount is attached to that aswell.

the didvided pipes for the wastegate

When i figured how to weld aluminum, and tial bov

My 2 exhaust systems...
street legal and well not.
street is 5" that goes to two 3" pipes with 2 cats anf muffler incerts by car
chemisty. They are for street legal open headers but it works nicely, and some G35 tips
the other is straight 5" with some baffling I put in it


Rebuilt 5sp shifter

custom head studs

fuel pressure reg

stainless resivor for the water IC.

new throtle bracket

oh look a fresh batch of powder coating!lol

more powder coated stuff

lookin' good

Fuck dude, way to one up all the DOHC guys...

I love you mrsleeve91!

Piston and rod pics please!

Wow, you have come a long way since meeting you in Whitecourt lol, nice.

Please explain the 3.6 crank and forged internals, sounds very interesting.


I have the same Paxton fuel pump for my GTR

crzyone wrote:Please explain the 3.6 crank and forged internals, sounds very interesting.

I'm guessing he meant 3.5 crank. I don't think the new DOHC engines even share bore center with the old pushrod engines, so I'd be extremely surprised if the 3.6 crank fit the pushrod block.

Yeah 3.5 non vvt, my bad, slip of the finger I guess.
So the crank is forged (stock) and has 2.25" rod journals. I left those at 2.25 for some added strength and had pauter make a set of rods with 5.7" long, 2.25" journal and .927 pin boss, and I found a set of 4.3 rod bearings that fit and had them cut the tangs for them.
Wesico made 2 set of pistons, fucked up the first set, they took out 42cc! the only thing I can figure is they transposed the head cc's, so I have a bad ass set of ashtrays/door stops...
I was trying to get 8.5 : 1 compression the first set was more like 6:1...
Once I get it tuned well and to my liking I plan on tearing it down again, check all my clearnces, new rings, re- hone and get the pistons ceramic and zylene coated. Then Ill be satisfied. I think..

oh I should mention I had the block cleaned and re honed ( just for shits and jiggles) and has the whole bottom end balanced. Man was the crank way out there! more than 60g on one counterweight. everything else was pretty close +/- 3g.

On with the pics!

my ash trays...

Good ones

the correct 12cc dish

BEEF CAKE!!!

All studded up

MLS gaskets

and all together the next morning

powder coated susp.


Brakes

getrag bracing

FYI- Im not trying to show up the dohc guys, as my friends say. " Im a picky son of a bitch"

Would you be offended if I said I would have sex with your car?

Too bad you put your nice skills into such a peice of shit motor... just kidding.

No not at all, in fact i've thought about it... jk
wait till you see the fresh paint, its like a black mirror! my best friend is a great body man at the dealership I use to work at and we spent 9 weeks painting it. 4-5 hours everyday after work and 10-12 every saturday and sunday this summer.
The engine was at the shop and he really owed me, I've help him build 2 Fieros of his own.

My house on any given Fiero day (saturday)

The indy, my buddy bought, and tony and his red pos he got for $300, w/rod knock!


Tonys almost done, flat red, very cool!

And the exhaust i made for him, he was on a $350 budget for his entire exhaust system...

This is by far in my opinion the best build on this forum so far.

Not to take anything away from anyone else as we have many good builds here, but my goodness man, you are insane.

Mucho props.

You have tapered piston pins, too.

I've been through a couple of sets of pistons for my Northstar before I found the right set of specs.

I REALLY wanted Hank The Crank ceramic-aluminum piston pins, but they apparently went out of business just before I started my build. I went with CP Pistons. They make really good slugs, but they didn't have a lightweight pin in the Northstar pin diameter. :(

Well thank you guys, I have tried to do my best. But with school and
workin full time its take over 2 years to get it to run. I have put
unbeliveable amounts of time, money blood sweat and tears in this pos.
and I finnally have a car that I dont want to change a thing.

And how about a teaser of the paint..

Best 60* build ever. Take some vids before you blow it up! You will definitely need bigger injectors to run more than like 13 or 14 psi. Probably like 72 lb injectors for that beast. What are your power goals anyway?


What are you using for clutch and flywheel?

That's scary that one of the counterweights was out of balance that far. You sure your flywheel wasn't screwed up or something?

On your Getrag bracing... shouldn't all that be on the other side? The left side bearing boss is not highly loaded. The right side is the one that pops out!

Well im expecting 600hp+ but 800 doesnt seem impossible. Iknow Ineed
to step up the inj. just been seeing what it can do..

Ive done alot of reading up on FWD tranny failures, getrags in particular
and I thing the 2 factors in them failing ( the diff coming out) is the shim
is work out, and the diff has some play to get off center line and the
other is the stock (long ass) axle. with lots of tourqe the 2 tripod cups and
bind and lock up. So the whole thing wants to rotate in an out of round
circle, causing the diff to come out of the case.
Im hoping the jackshaft will help stablize the diff and keep in the center
line with the gears. I also looked into DSM and about 600hp or so the
case spreads and cracks (the gear clusters pushing each other apart
enough to break the case) with that in mind I made the brace, also there
is another 3/8 plate that goes over the end, for the 2 bearing clusters.

If you havent noticed Im a mechanical eng. that over builds every thing
and try to anticipate failer points. And sometimes go over board... ha ha
So far I can roll on boost in 3rd gear and break the tires lose, and no
failures to report as of yet, so Im not sure how much further I can really
expect it to go.
Im running a spec stage 3+. they say it can hold 560ft/lb and seems be a
very streetable! and holding, I think. It hard to tell my tires dont squeal
anymore
And my crank was balanced seperatly from the balancer, flywhel and
pressure plate, its a findanza by the way, and was 4g off. the balancer
was 6g and the pressure plate was dead on! ha ha

mrsleeve91 wrote:I've done alot of reading up on FWD tranny failures, getrags in particular
and I thing the 2 factors in them failing ( the diff coming out) is the shim
is work out, and the diff has some play to get off center line and the
other is the stock (long ass) axle. with lots of tourqe the 2 tripod cups and
bind and lock up. So the whole thing wants to rotate in an out of round
circle, causing the diff to come out of the case.

The most common failure mode we've seen recently has been the right diff bearig boss being pushed out of the case by AXIAL loading from the final drive mesh helix angle.
Have you done anything about that? The pic doesn't look like it.
I've heard (and seen a few pics) of differentials failing due to one-wheel-wonder burnouts overheating the spider gears.
I have NEVER head of or seen pictures of a failure in which the left diff bearing boss or case around it broke due to radial loading on the final drive mesh.


Not sure what you're talking about with the tripots. If they can get off-axis enough to "lock up" then you already have a MUCH bigger problem.

Getrags have one other failure point. In the bellhousing area, that flat pad at about the 10:00 position. The bearing inside of there can push through. Worse, there's nothing you can do to reinforce it, because you hafta leave room for the pressure plate assembly to spin with the engine.
I've seen pics of this on Old Europe, but I can't find them. I'll have to look through my printouts, maybe I can scan it in and upload it.
Yes, this is a great thread, like the LS4 DoD tapshift thread, and does make mine look second-rate. I'm in the mock-up stages, but my final assembly will be as nice as this.
I can't help but be curious if this is the same getrag I sent.
I was gonna guess over 500 horses based on the above pics.