Real Fiero Tech

Dude, just make your own bracket to mount the slave to fit that arm. You just need a flat piece of metal and something to space the slave further back away from the arm because it'll end up too close if you just have it bolted to a flat piece of 1/4" steel. You could just stack another piece of...

eHoward wrote:Hold on here. That was to explain at the most basic level why we run anti-roll bars from side to side and not from front to back.

Ah, my bad! It seemed like there should be more to it but I wasn't sure since I didn't see a "to be continued.."
Looking forward to the next installment!

... 1/3 vs 1/2. We need the anti-roll bars to make up extra spring-rate while cornering for the 1/6th of extra weight transfer we are generating laterally to prevent bottoming of the suspension. ... So if the front suspension was right at its limit of travel while braking at 1G.. then without swayb...

So when we increase bar size/stiffness, we need to appropriately change damping as if we increased the spring rate?

:cussing: now what have you gone and done?? There's quite a few things it could be. First of all, check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir up front. If its empty, well, it probably leaked out someplace; maybe on the line, maybe at the slave, and maybe at the master cylinder. If the flo...

....aaaannnd they do it with roll bars instead of stiffer springs so it only applies during cornering so the ride is still soft going over bumps that don't unequally compress suspension.
Did I get it??

Ooo Oo me me!!

To reduce body roll..

for the purpose of... preventing severe camber changes?

To prevent overextension (if you can't find a better slave) you can put a mechanical stop bt that arm so it can't push the TOB far enough to either fall off the ledge on the input shaft or push the pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc. There just happens to be a bellhousing bolt in exactly th...

That's the FWD getrag arm, right? Its shorter than the Fiero Getrag arm. You dont need to get the "full" travel out of it. Your FIero Getrag slave is going to overextend it, though probably not enough to mash the PP fingers into the clutch hub. I did the calculations with that arm as I am ...

Howard, did you ever get these installed? I was just browsing through a Summit catalog during a trip to the bathroom and saw them. I wondered how well they work.

Hey folks.. lets resolve this. There's probably nothing I can do to help .. but I'll give it a bump.
What if I stick a spring in a vice and compress it until it binds then measure its length? I can probably do that when I have one of my valve springs off (93 TDC).

Thats a lot of crank.
Get some sleep Ben :salute:

Adjusting timing by moving a tooth? That's like 20 crank degrees. Its too coarse of an adjustment. What year are those cam cogs? If they are 91-93 you have to use a gear puller to get them off once you get the center bolt out. They have lock rings pressed in to hold them in place. Otherwise they sho...

Nothing stopping you from turning over the engine to expose the other bolt. You don't have to get it to TDC when adjusting the timing with these cogs. You could just modify the timing belt cover otherwise. Cut off part of the main cover and attach it to the inspection covers so you can get to the wh...

Why would it be hard to make something like this adjustable without removing the plenum and valve covers? Pull the inspection covers, loosen the three bolts holding the outer part of the cog to the inner part (which is tightened to the cam as stock), turn the inner part/cam using a wrench on the mid...

there are tons of options - but most always the answer to questions of why isn't something make is just this - money if its not profitable then the person has to take it apon themselves to do it as a hobby and hope enough people buy it so that they don't get screwed over. as for the cogs.. for 91-9...

If it turns out Donk can't get it for whatever reason, dibs on the cam cogs. Though I do hope he gets it because he needs the dang motor so he can get that puppy on the road. Go TBI 3.4 DOHC Turbo! errr

Kohburn making adjustable cam cogs or something I haven't heard about?
I don't understand why we don't make timing tools that use the holes in the other end of the cam by the endplate to time without removing valve covers and etc or having to put diff cogs on?

Hey Stimpy, I made coilovers for my 88 and it was real easy. The hardest part is removing the spring perches without cutting the strut body. You just have to cut very slowly/carefully. What struts do you want to use? Your current ones? I used 12" springs in mine from Summit. They were like $40 ...

uhhh... so what time did you get when you tried powerbraking on the 1st run?