Real Fiero Tech

My LS4/F40 Fiero is a summer daily driver, plated, and insured, and racks up 90+ miles per day when I drive it to work (like I did every day last week). http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s162/fieroguru/LS4/IMG_3471.jpg However, yesterday I pulled it into the garage and pulled the instrument cluster...

Looks good!
I think the increased number of ball bearings will reduce the point loads at the races as well and should help improve life.

I think its a cool idea! Any comparison info on the diameters of the bearings and the seperation distance between the two?

You are not crazy, but there are several things to consider. For example, the Camaros/Mustangs use a rigid lower attachment (so the lower strut/upright hole is round, not slotted), and use a slotted upper mount for camber adjustments - so they are opposite of the Fiero setup). There are other differ...

A little further down the list there is Sierra02-0716Y3 that is 134A, 12V and 2840 btu, but pulls 36.4A

It would be great to have front mounted electric PS and AC... less clutter and weight in the engine bay. Also, would greatly simplify the alternator placement on the LS4 swaps.

all the returnless setup offers is less line in the engine bay. And less heating of the fuel in the tank. I'd be interested in seeing the hard data on how much hotter the fuel gets... I would bet it's a very small amount I don't have any hard data, but think about it, pumping fuel through 3' to 4' ...

ericjon262 wrote: all the returnless setup offers is less line in the engine bay.

And less heating of the fuel in the tank.

Arao has had 4 valve LS heads for years (with pushrods, not a belt drive), but I have never come across them at the LS Fest. I doubt they are much better than current head options that can be had at half the cost.

http://www.araoengineering.com/lsx.htm

I get about 10.2 to 10.4 usable gallons of fuel from my 88's w/o having any fuel starvation issues when I pull into the gas station.

I would refill at 150 miles, then raise it for the next tank.

Originally 2.5 5speed. I Bought the car in Lexington, KY, it was originally from somewhere in Michigan. The car belonged to a older man who parked the car 8 years ago in favor of a minivan, and he died 3 years ago. I think I know that car. Was there an 84 fiero at the same house? I spoke to a recen...

Is the coolant temp sender for the ECM plugged in? It might think its -40 below and dumping lots of fuel to compensate.

Interesting, I didn't know that, I'll check the part numbers. Any way to tell by looking at the MC? I still have the factory parking brake rear calipers on it. The rear calipers must have the parking brake properly set and be free of any air pockets to have a firm brake pedal. Use a crescent wrench...

You should also check for excessive run out on the rotors.
They could be pushing the pistons further into the calipers and take more pedal travel to reach the rotors.

draven wrote: Anyone live between IL and GA in case it breaks down on the drive back?

I am in Lancaster, KY 40444
859-339-4673

That doesn't look bad at all. I would have them pull the carpet corners to take a picture of the inside walls of the trunk.If those show no signs of rust through. Also, take a hard look at the front corners and the ends of the lower rear frame rails where they bolt to the bumper to see if it has had...

The Dark Side of Will wrote:
Guru: Did CN at least give you your money back?

Last I knew the owner was still waiting for a refund from Clutch Net...

Did you check the clutch release cross shaft bearing for any binding? Maybe under certain conditions it could bind and not let the pressure plate reach full clamp load. Same goes for the slave cylinder as it might have a rough spot too. 100% not a fan of Clutch Net... they are worthless. Waited 6 we...

Autozone # 3543

The F23 & F40 use the same axle seals as all the fiero manual transmissions.

Thanks Guru, Looks like I'll be needing a .125" spacer to be where I need to be. From your other thread asking about the stock fiero clutch finger position (2.25") and the target range for the HTOB of 2.484" to 2.557, looks to me like the spacer should be 1/4" = 2.25+ 0.25 = 2.5...

I find it easier for me to leave the strut/upright/caliper, connected to the chassis and just drop the cradle with engine/transmission/axles. If you do it this way, on reassembly, you don't have to bleed the brakes.