Real tech discussion on design, fabrication, testing, development of custom or adapted parts for Pontiac Fieros. Not questions about the power a CAI will give.
I won't repost anything that is not tech related up to this point.
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This is the motor as it appeared when I picked up
I will be using a SPEC stage 3 clutch, which is supposed to hold up to 450lb/ft, so even if I upgrade the motor the clutch should be good.
You can probibly modify the munci 4 speed shifter brackets to work with the northstar, but I decided to a getrag swap anyways. 5 gears are more fun to row through and the extra fuel economy on the highway will be an added bonus. This is why a stock 4 speed muncie will not work with a N*. You can see the shifter brackets will run into the waterlog.
Last edited by crzyone on Tue May 03, 2005 11:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I will be using a modified flywheel, atleast until I upgrade the cams and springs to allow the motor to rev higher. I figured the stock flywheel might add alittle more drivability with the grabby spec clutch
I did a little painting to the motor the other day, I'm not sure why Cadillac had one black and one beige valve covers... Looked pretty bad. I painted the intake and coil packs cast iron grey and the valve covers flat black.
I then started working on the fuel lines. Parts stores sell fuel line repair kits which have the proper fittings on them to fit the stock fiero rubber fuel lines, the stock fiero lines are 3/8" and 5"16" for the return. Here is what the fuel line repair kit looks like.
Last edited by crzyone on Wed May 04, 2005 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
I have the fuel lines routed to the correct location already from my 3.4dohc install, so they shoud reach the N* fuel rail no problem.
Since both lines on the N* fuel rail are 3/8", I had to reduce the return line down to 5/16" so I could use the fiero return line. I used compression fitting to fasten the new lines to the fuel rail.
I will not be using the EGR system so I made some block off plates and sealed them with blue gasket maker.
Last edited by crzyone on Fri May 20, 2005 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
The other day I picked up my exhaust system, I will be using a mandrel bent 2.5" dual exhaust system. I will be using 2 chambered mufflers to keep it fairly tame. I had a straight through magnaflow on the 3.4dohc and it was way to loud and buzzy for my liking
And my flashy exhaust tips.
I will continue this from this point on this site. :thumbleft:
Last edited by crzyone on Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
thought you might be interested to know that I welded up my shift cable adaptor bracket to get the cabled around the 3.4's crossover and it worked like a charm - not pretty at the moment since had to cut and weld a few times to get it just right.. so the 4speed can be done
i'll try to snap some pics for ya tonight
[img]"An armed society is a polite society" - Robert A. Heinlein
"Most folks are educated beyond their intelligence" - Mark Twain
I will have to see the pics, its hard to imagine the shifter bracket being moved far enough to avoid the waterlog and the waterpump. I know the 3.4's crossover was slightly in the way, but the N* waterlog is huge. The shift bracket would have to stick straight up to avoid the waterlog.
crzyone wrote:I will have to see the pics, its hard to imagine the shifter bracket being moved far enough to avoid the waterlog and the waterpump. I know the 3.4's crossover was slightly in the way, but the N* waterlog is huge. The shift bracket would have to stick straight up to avoid the waterlog.
I look forward to the pics. :thumbleft:
slightly? I had to cut the aluminum bracket that held them on - chopped the top off of completely off just to get it on
well if it'll give ya an idea here is a sketch
red= removed
purple = crossover
blue = bracket
green = cables
you can kinda see in this pic how big the crossover is on my engine
if thats not enough to clear it then it does have the provision to be shifted like a getrag with a new select arm on the tranny and a bracket to hold the select cable
Last edited by Kohburn on Wed May 04, 2005 11:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
[img]"An armed society is a polite society" - Robert A. Heinlein
"Most folks are educated beyond their intelligence" - Mark Twain
Shaun41178(2) wrote:Awesome. Will be nice when its done. Keep us updated.
Am I missing anyone?
Quite a few people on this board have motor swaps done, or are in the process of throwing one in.
Whats also cool is that these same members have dyno numbers already or will shortly and actually post them too.
yeah my 3.4dohc that will get dynoed before going turbo
hope to have it on the road now shortly - just working out some tuning bugs with the turbo grand prix ecm
[img]"An armed society is a polite society" - Robert A. Heinlein
"Most folks are educated beyond their intelligence" - Mark Twain
Weather was nice today so I did some work on the car. I followed Will's example with the belt tensioner, seems like the most efficient way to route the belt. Had to shave a small area of the head to clear the tensioner.
Had to do alittle more grinding on the back side of the tensioner than will had to. Seems like the timing cover was in the way and I did not want to grind away any of the edge of the cover or else it would weaken the seal and I could have a potential oil leak.
Here is the tensioner in its new position, its just on there loosly for the picture.
Decided to relocate my battery from the front compartment and install it underneath the passenger side headlight. This keeps it out of the way and opens up my front compartment for extra storage.
This is just a picture of the hole that I have cut in the sheetmetal below the headlight. I will need to pick up some steel to make my battery box.
Kohburn, that crossover comes out farther than I remember. Your modifications may work with a N*, but since I am basically getting a free rebuilt getrag I will still be going that route.
It may be a little late to mention this since you already cut the hole, but why are you mounting the battery there?
Seems like it would throw off balance, and "rotational inertia", or something of the car. I guess like having a weight on the end of a long stick. Can't be good for cornering.
I don't think the car will notice 40lbs one way or the other. If anything, it evens out the weight distribution alittle better. I'm putting the battery there because I had it in the front compartment, but for my last swap I cut out half of my trunk so now the front compartment can carry a little bit of luggage.
My wife is from Nevada so we do a fair bit of driving from here to there, I would like to take the fiero, lots of twisty roads in Montana.
I did grind aluminum over your motor Donk, but just think, it will help seal any gasket leaks you may develop from me trying to rinse the alumium off with salt water. It seemed to work good for the first while, atlest till I let it sit. :blah5:
Instead of doing that, drop the battery down from the stock location. That keeps it close to the CG to keep from increasing moment of inertia, but gets it closer to the ground to lower the CG.
Weight distribution is only worth worrying about if you want to rotate your tires.
You can see from my picture and your picture that they look basically the same. Only thing I'm not sure about is the belt running ribbed side down on the tensioner which is smooth, I don't think it should be a problem. I'm not running AC
