5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

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The Dark Side of Will
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

If CarCraft can be trusted to give the whole story (not sure about that) they used a .563 lift cam with stock 5.3 heads and aftermarket valvesprings:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... ifold.html
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

yeah, so?
Shall I reassemble my 5.3 heads and see what my retainer-to-seal clearance is?
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

To add info on stock vs. ARP rod bolts...

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=45188

That was a CTS-V LS6 with *stock* rod bolts on a road course... popped
when he lifted to shift at the end of a straight.

*STOCK* tune and rev limit, as far as I know.

He references a post in another thread... which is here:
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/sh ... tcount=558
and here's the rest of that thread:
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/sh ... 18&page=14
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

At least you're doing your research.
Found any info on stock main bolts?
( Happy B-day to me.)
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Not really researching... just stumbled across it.

Happy Birthday!
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

Thanks.
For LSx rod bolts, not upgrading is false economy.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Finally got around to installing the rod bolts.

Image

In a *METRIC* engine with *METRIC* threads, the ARP bolts have a *THREE F#@$ING EIGHTHS* twelve point head... Felt silly when I realized why the 10mm wrench was loose...

Image

This is the truck windage tray. The Corvette windage tray that came with the C5 pan is a little rusty, so my dad's going to try electrolysis for rust removal (following alltrbo's recipe here: http://www.750turbo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=6892 )

Image

The original rod bolts had an *ELEVEN* F@#%ing millimeter hex. Thanks, GM.

Image
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Used electrolysis to remove the rust from the windage tray that goes with the C5 Corvette oil pan: http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... =3&t=17528

Installed the tray, the Corvette pickup and the Corvette pan. Missing one of the lower-to-upper pan bolts, but that's not a big deal.

Can now turn the engine back upright, put it on the ground and use the engine stand to test fit the E53 oil pan on the S62 for Bad Idea BMW.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

I don't understand why the chassis designers have so much trouble designing every car to accept every engine? And one oilpan for all apps. It worked great for the SBC. Why must they start moving the crossmembers and such?
Ah well, that's what you get for playing with BMW. Did I mention how easily the SBC and LSx both fit in the Z31 300ZX? And how impressive it's IRS is? They surely did improve it's geometry from the old 280ZX.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Atilla the Fun wrote:In the LSx world, everyone has gone off the deep end when it comes to connecting rods. 99.9% of them don't need aftermarket rods. Putting ARP capscrews has proven adequate for LS3s spinning 7500 on a daily basis. With the reduced stresses of the short stroke, your 5.1L should like 8000.
But with any of the FAST intake manifolds ( and what else would you use? Nothing else is any better ) the runner length is tuned for peak TQ around 4900, and peak HP around 6300. So choose a cam with an IC of 42-44 degrees ABDC @ 0.050".
This is from the AWD GTR thread... better to reply to it here.

Strength may not be an issue with the stock rods, but what about weight? The Eagle 4340 H-beams for my Northstar were 150g *EACH* lighter than stock. That and some weight out of the pistons results in the ability to take a good bit of iron out of the crankshaft, reducing the MOI of the engine. As well the lighter recip components reduce load on the rotating assembly.

I would have *LOVED* to have gotten "ultralloy" ceramic piston pins from Hank The Crank, but he went out of business before I was ready to order. That would have dropped something like 35 more grams out of EACH reciprocating assembly.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

It's on blocks, but at least it's in the bay...

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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

So the truck alternator and intake manifold are going to fit under the stock hood? Excellent!
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

The hood doesn't quite close on them. The engine can still go back a little further following modification of the hood latch bracket (visible on the pics earlier in this thread). It is not quite in its final position, but the front of the engine is as low over the steering rack as it can go.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

If it's that close, grind on the alt, grind the crap off the top of the intake, grind the bracing on the underside of the hood, grind on the rack, and space the rack down, or mount it with offset bushings. All of this combined is cheaper than changing the oilpan or the manifold and FEAD.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Lol... Or just get a car manifold/accessory drive.

Playing with the rack location is not acceptable due to introduction of bumpsteer.
The inner pivots of the front control arms do need to be raised a bit in order to get the roll center and bumpsteer right, however.
It already has the C5 oil pan, so there's not much that can be done for better rack clearance.

Zero or tiny clearance is not acceptable either, as the engine will move around a bit when whipped hard.

FEAD = Facilities Engineering & Acquisition Division
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by Atilla the Fun »

Front Engine Accessory Drive, "genius".
What do you care about bumpsteer in a car not good for anything but straight-line racing? It's narrow, it can't fit serious tires, and as you note, the front geometry is already Fubar. But most good bumpsteer kits are adjustable by a full inch, so moving the rack can't hurt.
And the car manifold and the car accessories cost a helluva lot more, even used, than offset rack bushings and a bumpsteer kit.
If handling matters, you can't use that iron block.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

LoL.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Since my dad's been having a rough time the last few weeks, on father's day I went out and did some work for him on the Datsun.
I cut the stock engine mount towers off the crossmember and removed the hood latch bracket. Those two things let the engine sit in its proper location in the bay. The 5.3 is probably going to sit about 1-1.5" further forward than the furthest back it could be. That's because the extended accessory drive from the truck "straddles" the rack and crossmember. I don't think even the flattest accessory drive could fit behind the rack with the engine all the way back. Also, placing it that far back would preclude use of the truck manifold. That's neither here nor there... just eliminates a potential option.
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Got the body leveled on 4 jack stands yesterday. Dad blocked the engine up at the height he wants it so that I could snag the cherry picker for use at my house.

It looks good, but there are some fine-tuning items to consider in terms of engine position... for one it doesn't have a bellhousing on it now, so we need to bolt one up to be sure it's clear of the trans tunnel.

The truck accessory drive sticks forward from the block far enough that the gap between the crank pulley and block can almost straddle the rack and crossmember. The truck accessory drive has two belts... one for power steering (not used in this application), alternator & waterpump while the other drives only the A/C compressor. The A/C belt is behind the main belt. If we can move the compressor forward to put it on the main belt, then we can part-off the A/C drive section of the crank pulley. That would free up a bit of flexibility in engine position.
The heater and A/C connections are on the firewall right at the level of the tops of the valve covers. If we can get the back of the engine a smidge lower, then it could fit under those... but I think that would require a car manifold vice the truck one. The truck manifold that's on the engine flows better than the LS1 car manifold, so we'd have to find an LS6 manifold at a minimum. Is the LS2 manifold the same as the LS6 manifold?
Also, the front of the engine is about as low as it can go over the rack and crossmember right now, so lowering the rear more would change driveline angles (which I we haven't measured yet anyway...)
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Re: 5.3 Powered Datsun build thread

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