S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

There are lots of tutorials on the internets about how to do this in detail.

Here's what I ended up with:

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Afterward, I found out that my Lithium Manganese batteries are probably still good... oh well, now I can make them even better.

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You can see the wires coming out on the left:

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OBTW:
Fuel for the VDO vs. Moto-Meter debate... These pics are of the *SAME* cluster:

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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

When I was recently getting my A/C running again, I found this:

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The pull/push rod from the recir door motor broke off its attachment to the recirc door. This means that my right recirc door is stuck open (closed? I don't know).

I glued the recirc door back together with epoxy, we'll see if it breaks again

First attempt at gluing. I wetted the broken surfaces with 5 min epoxy and kept the parts squeezed fairly hard while it set. However, the glue did not completely fill the cracks and I did not have fillet or overlap.

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Back side after first gluing:
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Second application, full filleting at the joints and overlap on the crack up the spine.
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How the pushrod is disengaged
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Push rod end fitting manufacturer

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Doors open
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Doors Closed
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As I was reassembling everything, I discovered that the plastic molded around the brass inserts in the door slider structural piece that screws to the back of the face plate had cracked around the inserts... so I tried more epoxy

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The two in this photo had actually pulled out. I didn't think to slather epoxy all over them before I pushed them back in though :doh:
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The A/C works. The HVAC is now fully functional for the first time since I've owned the car.

Of course, the air flow meter also crapped out this week, so I don't have use of the car until I get another. My dad's '87 325iS just popped its timing belt, so it won't need its air flow meter for a long time. It'll probably get a 24V, or maybe even 32V engine, so it probably won't ever need it again.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Even if the car runs well on the replacement AFM, I'll probably go ahead and plan a Walbro 255 purchase into my next paycheck.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

E30's don't have fuel pressure test ports on their stock fuel systems, so I have to add one.

I just ordered these:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Brass- ... /31482.htm

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http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Brass- ... /31985.htm

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I'm considering this, but will probably just piece fittings together from female pipe T's and hose barbs:

http://www.genosgarage.com/product/fpt- ... ge-related

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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I've been doing some basic maintenance items on the car.

I put this together:
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But have not used it yet.

I replaced the fuel filler hose. Now it doesn't leak fuel when the tank's full.

I replaced the rear shock top mounts... now it doesn't clunk as I go down the road. Well... it clunks less.

I replaced the PCV hoses, idle air hose and throttle body elbow. It idles much better, but I still need to verify fuel pressure (and injector part numbers?)

I'm repairing the center console and center stack. I just replaced the 2721 light bulbs, but now that I look I see that they're available as LED's. I ordered 10 lumen LED's to replace the 6.03 lumen original bulbs. Once I get those installed in the center stack, I'll actually be able to reinstall the center console.

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Does anyone know how/where to get the sockets? I damaged the right one slightly while resoldering the wires to it (because my borrowed iron wouldn't tin...) and it might be fun to get a new one (and a better iron).

Per this: http://eiko.com/Products.aspx?CatID=617 ... Index=2721 the original 2721's are 6.03 lumens, so I bought the 10 lumen replacements. We'll see if that's too bright or not.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... t-car/227/

Here's the damage to the center console:

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Here's the in-progress... a form made of duct tape:

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The adhesive, for repairing dive equipment:

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And the result:

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You can also see another crack I repaired with a different glue leading to/from the slot. The rear half of the center console engages those slots, so I wanted the broken one to be well repaired so as not to get worse. There was also a larger crack where the driver's knee would go. I was able to glue that one shut as well.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

RWD subframe bushing vs. AWD subframe bushing. The ONLY difference is that the center sleeve is 0.320 (8mm) longer in the AWD subframe bushing.

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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by Emc209i »

I use two part epoxy all the time - today in fact. That should be the strongest part of the HVAC system now.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Emc209i wrote:I use two part epoxy all the time - today in fact. That should be the strongest part of the HVAC system now.
LOL... no doubt. I have NO IDEA how even an ape with a pipe wrench could have gotten deep enough into the HVAC to break *ONLY THAT* fitting without smashing everything in the dash between that flap and the shifter. It's legit strange.

That being said, I have the specs for the C5 Corvette rear housing to BW 4472 T-case and will be drawing that part up in OnShape as soon as I get the drawings for my Truss Tie Bars for my bridge crane out to the laser cutter.

My dad's semi-employer (semiployer? semployer?) has a water jet... so it shouldn't be a big deal to get this cut out of aluminum.

HOWEVER, the thinnest adapter plate I can get away with will be 1.105, so I'll have to have 1 1/4" plate milled down. :no: But, I need to have the concentricity bores milled and the bolt holes drilled regardless, so the part will have to have two set ups on a mill no matter what... not a big deal also to face the surface down a bit at that point.
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Re: Fantastic V8 swap candidate

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Aaron wrote:The V12 idea is cool, as V12s are naturally pimp, but the BMW V12 is just done for pimpness and not for performance, as a 4.0 V8 would probably out accelerate it.
FYI, the M60B44 frankenmotor is the hot ticket right now. The timing drive and everything above the head gaskets comes from the 4.0, while the short block comes from the 4.4. The resulting build has ~11:1 compression and is a proven 300-315 RWHP combo with a manual trans.

Been doing some research on this build.
It looks like I may be able to use a $180 SSR 32 spline T56 output shaft in the TR6060, which would drop the cost of entry for that mod by $300 or so. RockAuto sells the part, too.
My dad is checking out what has to be done to the C5 Corvette rear housing to fit the input shaft seal for the 4472. It needs a 2.374 x 0.500 bore. I can keep the adapter plate ~0.750 thick between the C5 rear adapter and the transfer case. Once I've done what's necessary to fit that seal, I can send the rear adapter off to be modified for the one piece countershaft in the TR6060. I'll have to disassemble the trans, but it won't be hard to figure out the correct length for the SSR output shaft. I guess I should go ahead and risk the $180 for the shaft. The risk is that the splines might not go far enough up the shaft for there to be enough spline engagement left when it's trimmed to the correct length for the T-case to mate up.

ETA:
Threads on TR6060 vs. T56 differences & AWD application:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... r6060.html
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84883

My own thread on LS1Tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... -case.html
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

GDMF... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=390009

I don't need that temptation...
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I've had the passenger (co-driver!) seat out of the car for a long time. I finally cleared off bench space in my garage and tore it apart.

It looks like I need two 52101916611 (callout #1)cables from this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=52_1897

However, the seat appears to use 2 #1's and 2 #3's, with zero #2's installed in the seat I took apart.

One cable was broken, and for $5 I'd rather not risk having the other one go wrong, although there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. I'll also replace the seat shocks. I'm trying to figure out how to take the pan elevation/backrest inclination device apart to verify that it's working as intended... I'm not sure it's transferring enough motion from the side with the operating lever to the "repeater" side.

And a 07119907596 (callout #10) from this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=52_1412

I'm wondering if I can still get both of the gas springs for the seats... one for raising the pan and one for inclining the backrest.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by CincinnatiFiero »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:GDMF... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=390009

I don't need that temptation...
Pet peeve, "odometer discrepancy" "true mileage unknown" "previous rollback" etc title is by definition NOT a clean title.
The title is clean; no salvage, theft, etc. The title as well as a Carfax report can be seen in the link below. Only issue is an odometer inconsistency, which is classic E30.
Unless its an actual miles title and the odometer just doesn't work.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

The odometer drive gears in E30's disintegrate. There are aftermarket replacements available, but most people let it go a few thousand miles before they even start to think about fixing it.

I'm not sure what he means by "odometer inconsistency"... inconsistent with what? Does the odo now read less than what the title says it did the last time the car changed hands?
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

So... this happened:

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#1 here:
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0074

I have the Z3 1.9 shifter from my wrecked E34 (already removed) which I can recycle into this application.

The shift console has to be replaced anyway... I can drop in a $40 part, use my Z3 shifter and be on my way.

The Z3 shifter worked fine in the E34 and I thought it was a nice sporting setup for a daily driver. I'm having a hard time justifying spending $80 on the DSSR and another $40 or so on the "rod joint" at the transmission, in addition to the $40 for the shift console.

Of course there's always AKG... :devil: https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/m ... 3-325-318/

Three hours later:

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A previous owner appears to have glued the knob to the shifter. <Sigh> I had to bring it out the top.

Getting it out took about three hours. I had to separate the cat-back from the catalyst. The catalyst had been welded to the headers during a previous owner's header installation.

I tried doing the job without separating the rear driveshaft, but I saw how the guibo was getting twisted up as I was lowering the back of the transfer case and decided I needed to take the rear driveshaft loose. The rear U-joint is worn out and needs to be replaced anyway.

I found that I needed to take the front driveshaft out in order to fit my hand far enough up into the trans tunnel to remove the pivot pin that secures the shift console at the transmission end. At least I can check my splines.

Does anyone have the part number for the thicker guibo and associated centering pin for the front driveshaft? I replaced the rear guibo when I replaced the gas tank, so it's ok. I haven't touched the front, and it looks like it's been bombed.

Here's the parts list I'm working on:

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0074

Code: Select all

01	SHIFTING ARM					1		09/1989	25111220606	$37.80
02	Bearing sleeve, round		L=26MM		1	06/1986	09/1989	25117519669	$11.92		
07	Rubber boot					1		09/1989	25111221214	$24.07
11	Plastic washer			10X16X0,9	2	06/1986	09/1989	25111220439	$0.25	
13	Gear lever cover		SCHWARZ		1		09/1989	25111220204	$31.91
01	Gear shift knob plastic/5-speed	SCHWARZ		1	09/1987		25111434495	$24.50

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=26_0040

Code: Select all

10	UNIVERSAL JOINT			LK=78MM/10	1			26201701094	$57.29
13	Covering cap					1			26201226007	$6.55
17	Gasket ring			38X3		1			26201701106	$0.61
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Found a cutter to use to clearance the flywheel dust cover for the thicker guibo upgrade to the front driveshaft & diff.

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Took it down 0.240 in 0.060 cuts... I was being very careful because I wasn't very sure of the way we had the part clamped down.

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This *did* open up a hole into the clutch space... we'll see what I end up doing about it. Maybe nothing. If there's enough clearance to the bolt heads with the new guibo, maybe duct tape.
The hole opened up on the last pass, so cutting it down 0.180 would not have opened the hole.
Also, there was a helicoil in the affected bellhousing bolt hole... not sure what that means, other than that it made interesting noises as we cut it.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

The scoop on the SSR output shaft:

It won't work.

See items #29 & 30 here: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6- ... build.html

Specifically these two photos:
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And compare to this photo:
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From here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... parts.html

In the photo of all the input shafts next to each other, the splines that line up at the 15" mark on the tape are the 5/6/R synchro hub splines. The next journal to the left of those is where the 6th (I think) and reverse gears ride on needle bearings. The next journal beyond that is for the output bearing in the tailshaft housing. The next journal after that, at least on the C5 tailshaft housing is the transmission output shaft seal. So far so good. However, for the SSR output shaft to work for me, I would need the output splines to come right up to the left edge of that seal journal... and they don't.

Using a T56 output shaft in the TR-6060 requires a spline adapter to install the 3-4 synchro hub. The TR-6060 splines are larger than the T56 splines, so a spline adapter could be cut to put the TR-6060 synchro on the T56 shaft. Rockland has such a part, but they "sell transmissions, not parts", and won't send me one.

Low cost option out the window... I'll start asking around for a TR-6060 32 spline shaft.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by CincinnatiFiero »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:The odometer drive gears in E30's disintegrate. There are aftermarket replacements available, but most people let it go a few thousand miles before they even start to think about fixing it.

I'm not sure what he means by "odometer inconsistency"... inconsistent with what? Does the odo now read less than what the title says it did the last time the car changed hands?

VDO also made Mercedes odometers. I know your pain. However the legitimacy of the failure doesn't negate the status of the cars title.

Cars get TMU titles a couple of ways.

On the back of the title many states have 3 boxes to be checked:

[] Reflects ACTUAL miles
[] Odometer in excess of mechanical limits
[] True mileage unknown / Odometer Discrepancy / Odometer do NOT reflect actual miles / etc.

Some people check box 3 to be a good Samaritan, some people don't know any better and brand their own titles. Dealers or say charity auctions (Volunteers of America sells nearly everything as TMU) to avoid some type of liability on cars with sketchy history.

Box two, the in excess of mechanical limits is also technically a branded title.

Also if a car is titled with less miles than it was previously titled with in the same state, most state systems catch that and brand the car with ODOMETER DISCREPANCY.

If the car is moving state to state, usually the state won't brand them as TMU, but Carfax/Autocheck/Carproof will catch it and dirty up the history report of the car.

This is a silly rant in your technical thread, but I have this conversation probably monthly buying cars. Ask the seller "does it have a clean title" - "yes" - show up and they hand me an odometer discrepancy title. Salvage is not the only way a title is "unclean" Odo discrepancy, flood, previous police use, certificate of destruction, etc. are all "brands" that affect the value of the car when you go to sell them on. You will certainly find people who don't care, or people who will buy the whole VDO is crap story, but in my experience, a branded title always becomes a negotiation point and a point of contention.

Reading his post again I think he actually does have clean title, but probably has a dirty carfax. Feel free to delete this if you want it out of your thread, but I figured I'd answer your question to the best of my understanding if you were genuinely curious.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

No problem at all, man. It's good to get the technical deets on how the titles are branded... may save me some money :wink:
I haven't made much of a habit of buying cars for which that stuff matters, but I'd like to elevate my acquisitions, which means elevating my game to acquire them at reasonable prices. (If only I'd jumped on that $2K rusty bare M3 shell I could have snagged a couple of years ago...)

//

TR-6060 madness:

My rear housing is from a C5 'Vette. In order to install it onto a TR-6060, it needs to have the boss for the layshaft bearing welded up and remachined for the one-piece layshaft, rather than the T56's two piece layshaft. That's no big, as the market offers this service.

The Corvette rear housing contains the last bearing on the output shaft as well as the transmission output shaft oil seal. It *also* holds the differential *input* oil seal, which is installed about 1/4" away from the output seal, with the two seals face to face. There's a weep hole drilled into the trapped volume as a tell-tale which will drip if either seal leaks.

The Borg Warner T-case already has an input seal, so I can leave the differential input seal (nomenclature: output shaft outer seal) out of the assembly entirely without adverse effects. The output bearing and the inner seal both run on journals that are the same diameter as the 32 spline major diameter. The outer seal runs on a smaller journal than the inner seal... I have no idea why.

This means that all one has to do to fit a 32 spline output shaft through the Vette rear housing is just leave the outer seal out of the assembly. Awesome.

Now I need to get onboard with the 2016 (now 2017?) group buy for the 4472 32 spline input shaft, measure how deep its splines are, determine the overall length and spline length I require, then give those specs to a shop that can make the custom shaft. Sweet. Haven't saved any money, but at least now I know what I need.

The outer seal PN is 12455045 ( http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/p ... 55045.html )
The inner seal PN is 19206242( http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/p ... 06242.html )

However, for a different gear ratio set (Z06 maybe?) a different part number is shown, but called an o-ring seal: 89059457 ( http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/p ... 59457.html ) That *might* be the large o-ring that seals the transmission rear housing to the differential rear housing, but I don't know why it would be Z06 only or why it would be called out as an alternate for the shaft seal... Don't ever change, GM.

Here's the rear housing parts breakdown:
http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/s ... gory=19405
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I realized I had not posted (or taken!) a photo of the final product of the modified dust cover.

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And here's a closeup of the broken shifter support rod. Since new ones are $140+, this one will be repaired.

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Also, my dad and I are ordering about $900 worth of parts for this car and his E24... Doing shifters, driveline refresh (his CSB rubber just died), guibo mods, seat repairs, brake hoses and some miscellaneous items like my right mirror glass and his right interior door handle.
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Re: S62 E30 AWD (Formerly: Fantastic V8 swap candidate)

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Repaired E30 shift support rod above with E34 rod below:

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Z3 1.9 shifter installed. I'm waiting until the new Z3 1.9 shifter for my dad's E24 and the new transmission rod joint(s) arrives in order to measure them for making my own semi-weighted DSSR.

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