Bad Coolant Leak - Front of Engine

General Fiero Maintenance including oil changes, air filters, suspension refreshes, restorations, painting, etc.

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Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Last time I did this, the impact wrench was a must. I don't expect it to be any easier this time. Luckily, I have one available, and the parts and such seem to readily available at my local Vatozone.

Now, spill about the gasket prep or ban! :la:
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Mach10
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Post by Mach10 »

You can do the job without an impact gun, although it's an exercise in frustration trying to block the crank from moving while you yank on it.

As for the gasket prep:
http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_ ... 2278/80065

This stuff, or the copper variant:
http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_ ... 2287/80697

I prefer the copper because it never actually "hardens" per-se, so you can actually screw around placing and re-placing gaskets without having to scrape anything off. Also, it's very visible, even with light coats. You can barely see the blue shit--especially on felpro gaskets (which are also blue.) The copper "dries" to a soft, tacky consistancy, and stays that way. Great for holding up gaskets, without causing ridges, bumps, or lumps that could affect sealing.

Plus, 'cos it's a spray, it's tidy as hell to cleanup, and easy to lay a nice even coat on things.

I use a nice light, even coat on both sides. Keeps the gasket stuck--although I don't honestly believe it "improves" sealing as such.
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Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Well, I've traded a bad coolant leak for a bad oil leak. I got the whole thing torn apart and put back together on Friday, but now its leaking oil like a mutherfuker. I'm betting the farm that I fucked up the cork gasket between the oil pan and the timing cover. Sure can't wait to drop the pan now and try to redo the damn oil pan gasket. Have I mentioned how much I fucking hate cork gaskets?
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Mach10
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Post by Mach10 »

Didn't quite get that... Something about fork gas kits?

Make sure the surfaces are clean, and that the cork hasn't rotted clean through. I've sucessfully used RTV in this application, but I know plenty of people who've had nothing but problems...

Probably best to buy a new one :(
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Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Close enough. I'm not taking the timing cover off again, I'll pull the pan. I have another oil pan gasket set somewhere from an old project, and I think it has a paper gasket. I'll RTV the shit out of all of it (not really, but I'll make sure it has a good clean seal) and button it all back up. I'm just pissed cause its one thing after another with this damn car.

I'm really thinking strongly about ditching this car after I graduate teh colag skool this spring and getting a newer car, if I can find something I like (and can afford). A friend of mine just bought his own home with 2 car garage, and he's thrown out the idea of letting me keep the car there and the two of us turning it into a race car and competing in some SCCA classes. We'll see where that goes.
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Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Yeah, it was a bitch, but I did it in a day. The pan's going to be a bitch too, since I have to get the front engine mount off and get the engine up so I can get the pan off and clean up the sealing surfaces without dumping a ton of shit in the oil.

Bah, and my hands were just starting to heal up, too. :cussing:
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Post by Mach10 »

The God of mechanical repair is not a god of mercy, She is a God of Sacrifice, and demands blood. :salute:
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

When I took the oil pan off my 86 style timing cover, I just used rtv all the way around. Never had any problems. Even with the turbo.

Find out where its leaking first before pulling the pan. Might be just a bolt loose or something.
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Post by Boscolingus »

If I had a garage up here to work on my toys I'd tell ya to tow that fucker up here and I'd spin the wrenches on it just for something to do :)

The integrated timing cover/oil pan setup can be a bitch, I should have stepped up and told ya that the easiest move would have been to remove the pan then did into the timing cover but I kinda brainfarted on that.
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Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Well, considering its leaking from the front of the engine (i.e. right where I just worked on it), I either skrood the front main seal (doubt it) or that POS cork gasket didn't take. So, oil comes out, engine goes up, pan comes off, pan and block get cleaned, and fresh gasket with nice lines of RTV go on, presto chango no more leak (cept for that rear cam cover seal, which will wait till clutch time).
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Blue Shift
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Post by Blue Shift »

Looks like I joined the party late. Sucks man - I found myself asking myself the same question during the DOHC project - I tore that motherfucker down THREE times, with two costly builds... I sympathize.

I haven't done a V6 water pump, but I happen to have recent knowledge of V6 oil pan jobs. If you pulled the timing cover, you broke the seal on the bottom to the oil pan - but you already know that. The good news, is that compared to pulling the pan on a 2.5 with an auto (in the rain, in 35 degree weather, on concrete, at 2AM...), the V6 pan is really easy to do in the car.

The secret is unbolting the L shaped front mount bracket, jacking the engine up and getting a piece of 4x4 between the crank pulley and the cradle so you can pull the bracket outta there. Since cork sucks, it looks like Kragen has a molded rubber perma-dry type gasket if you're gonna fix it.
Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Blue Shift wrote:Looks like I joined the party late. Sucks man - I found myself asking myself the same question during the DOHC project - I tore that motherfucker down THREE times, with two costly builds... I sympathize.

I haven't done a V6 water pump, but I happen to have recent knowledge of V6 oil pan jobs. If you pulled the timing cover, you broke the seal on the bottom to the oil pan - but you already know that. The good news, is that compared to pulling the pan on a 2.5 with an auto (in the rain, in 35 degree weather, on concrete, at 2AM...), the V6 pan is really easy to do in the car.

The secret is unbolting the L shaped front mount bracket, jacking the engine up and getting a peice of 4x4 between the crank pulley and the cradle so you can pull the bracket outta there. Since cork sucks, it looks like Kragen has a molded rubber perma-dry type gasket if you're gonna fix it.
Yup, that's how I did it. Worked great, too, even with the cork gasket. As it turns out, what I always suspected was the rear cam cover leaking slightly was actually the oil pan somewhere up behind the flywheel where I couldn't see it. Fixed to problems at once, no leaks since.
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Blue Shift
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Post by Blue Shift »

Awesome!

Hey sometime this summer, You, Steven, Stimpmeister, Me, and anybody else in the area should hit like Santa Cruz or something now that you got it working, I think all our cars should be in operating shape finally...
Fastback86
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Post by Fastback86 »

Blue Shift wrote:Awesome!

Hey sometime this summer, You, Steven, Stimpmeister, Me, and anybody else in the area should hit like Santa Cruz or something now that you got it working, I think all our cars should be in operating shape finally...
...Assuming that posting this doesn't jinx its "operating shape."
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