Took the 3.4 DOHC to the strip...

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:18 am

There is an aftermarket forged crankshaft availible for the 3.4 DOHC too. It's from j-body.org. I dont know if its been discussed before, but I believe it's a 3X00 crank re-ground. Does anyone know much about the compatibility of these cranks with the 3.4 DOHC? I would assume that they are running these in the 3.1 liter j body's (because its for sale for the second gen j-body's) and the 3.4 DOHC crank is identical to the 3.1 correct? Obviously if that is what it truely is I would just buy a 3X00 crank and have it re-machined for way cheaper than doing that.

But that crank girdle is definatly worth looking into!

mrsleeve91 · Post by **mrsleeve91** » Thu May 22, 2008 7:22 pm

JBP Used a 3500 non vvt crank which is a twisted forged steel crank. It has shaved counter weights and turned down main journals, I got mine with the stock 3500 2.25" rod journals for some extra strenght. And even with Pauter rods and 2.25" rod journals there is no clearnce issues.

There are several threads about the 3500 non vvt on Old Europe.

The crank new from GM is like 400, my cost and about 500 to get it all thurned down and timing marks cut in it. Just FYI...

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:00 pm

Aaron, give up on saving the block, twist it 6500, and if it lets go, then we can see where it failed and go from there. Otherwise, you deserve to lose.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:01 pm

Atilla the Fun wrote:Aaron, give up on saving the block, twist it 6500, and if it lets go, then we can see where it failed and go from there. Otherwise, you deserve to lose.

Are you buying the replacement block? Hehehe.

I'm actually not even going to run it at 10psi like I had originally planned. I'm going to stick at 8.7. But I'll turn every bit of 7000rpm!!!

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:11 pm

my labor counted as free, I can get a block for $100, next time I'm at the yard. heck, the whole 3.4 DOHC id under $200 including a core charge. For a rich guy like you, Aaron, claiming $4500/mo income, that's nothing. Last week I saw one, less intake manifold. So since you're planning 7000 rpm, no, I'm not buying. But I am an engines guy, so I'll help anyone playing the 3.4DOHC like it's fragile. I'm sure we would both like to see any pics you have of the mains failing. And I don't mean the bolts, that's what ARP is for.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:16 pm

Well I trust the block, just not past 10psi or 400whp. I'm sure at some point in the future I'll crank it up, but not now.

Also, if I do keep this car, I will eventually go to the CTS 3.6l DOHC engine. Aluminum block FTW.

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:18 pm

that thing starts at 300 HP, so 600 on pump gas should be easy, except the pistons and rings. If a Getrag would hold, that should do 10s.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Mon May 26, 2008 12:02 am

Took the car to the track today, here are the results (right lane all day):

First Run:

Second Run (fastest):

Third Run:

Video with all three:

Obviously I'm pretty happy with the results. There is still room for improvement in my launches, but doing better overall. Got kicked out in the first round of the bracket racing. Car was exactly the same setup as before except 50/50 premium and race gas (I really just love the smell of race gas, no other reason).

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Mon May 26, 2008 9:22 am

nice runs man. Your car moves pretty well on the top end for an n/a dohc. 105 mph. Thats good man.

Blue Shift · Post by **Blue Shift** » Mon May 26, 2008 1:55 pm

Excellent!

Been getting the urge to pump up my DOHC - stock fiero air pot, intake silencer, and 91 intake manifold FTL.

THE PUNISHER · Post by **THE PUNISHER** » Mon May 26, 2008 3:07 pm

Saweet.

High 12's if you nail the 60 FT.

For once a fiero that isn't all launch and has some good MPH.

nice work.