To build the ultimate 3.4 DOHC: Turbo DYNO NUMBERS

[Aaron]

The Titanic wasn't designed to sink, in fact, it was designed to not be able to sink.

But a lot more since he doesn't do the fabrication himself. So add a couple hundred in labor.

[Shaun41178(2)]

it won't cost a couple hundred in labor to cut and weld a pipe 4 inches longer and a 90 degree angle. I have stuff welded for me all the time. 10-20 bucks usually takes care of it.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Or he could save up a whole $50 over the long winter and in the spring have it fixed and use the wastegate he already owns.

[fieromadman]

Okay, first off, I'm not buying a new wastegate. I bought that one for a reason. Second, I can make this one work by shortening up the tube as much as possible and angling it downward at about a ten degree angle. Since the strut tower tapers it should work out okay. Here is a few pics, with the flange and crossover on there it was hard to position it exactly, but this plan should work:











Everything that I had that guy tig weld (bung on the oil pan, hot side intercooler piping-allready tacked, and the crossover-allready tacked) cost me $100 because he's a friend of a friend and he was doing it in his spare time. So modifying the wastegate again should be like 20 bucks.

As for the air filter... I plan on running one but I need to get the shift cables in there because one kinda blocks the turbo inlet, so we'll have to see what I come up with. My guess is a short silicone coupler attached to a shortie K&N.

And I have no idea what your talking about with the just turn it sideways talk...

[fieromadman]

Yeah I just found what you were talking about with the turn it sideways thing. Someone needs to learn about pressure concepts...

[Moderator: Funny picture moved to RFT VTW]

Now I'm going to have a retarded moment of my own... under load, the engine wants to move which direction? Towards the back of the car?

[Kohburn]

Now I'm going to have a retarded moment of my own... under load, the engine wants to move which direction? Towards the back of the car?

it wants to turn the opposite direction as the wheels

[fieromadman]

So the top of the engine wants to move backwards... I was right...

BTW, wtf is the rft vtw?

[The Dark Side of Will]

So the top of the engine wants to move backwards... I was right...

BTW, wtf is the rft vtw?

Yep, it moves backwards. The stock dogbone is loaded in compression.

RFT VTW:
phpBB/viewforum.php?f=4

[fieromadman]

Well last week I got the cradle and engine installed in the car again and got it rolling. Unfortunately I think thats about as far as it's going to get before next spring. I also don't think that it'll be seeing any internal mods to the engine unless I land a better job ASAP. Money just isn't happening. Anyhow, a list of what needs to be done still as it is put away:

Components that I still need to design/install:

Modify wastegate tube
Make dump tube for wastegate
Remove stock battery tray.
Dogbone
Idler pulley
Exhaust after turbo
Lengthen/shorten some wires on the harness
Cold side intercooler piping
Mount ECU
re-route heatercore line that used to go through t-body
Mount Heat Exchanger
Run intercooler coolent line
Mount IC
Mount IC pump
Mount IC resevior
Wire IC pump
Possibly modify decklid for intake mani

Parts I need to buy:
Vaccume line (the good silicone shit)
Dogbone bushings
IC Switch
MISC bolts and nuts
IC Resivior canister

[fieromadman]

Well I got a few things figured out and got a little bit further on the project yesterday. Got the wastegate taken care of, that was the major thing. I'm also still struggling with my oil drain line issues. The AN fitting is hitting on the axel. Should have gone a different route with it but oh well! Here's pictures from the day:















Also, here are some pics with the turbo on and the decklid down. It fits, but it's tight. I think I may be doing some trimming. The passeger side needs to get trimmed majorly anyhow. I was planning on adding a mustang scoop anyhow. I think I'll be doing that and painting the decklid flat black for now untill I decided for sure on the new paint on the car. It's going to be alot less "flashy" than now.

[fieromadman]

So, I need some advice on exhaust options from the turbo back...

I have the flowmaster crossflow that could use the 3 inch inlet, but I think that routing the damn thing would be damn near impossible to do without cutting into the trunk.

I have been considering cutting into the trunk for some time now, but I'm not enthused with losing the trunk, not even half of it. I was hoping that I could just box it or notch it if nessicary to make the exhaust work. However, if you guys have suggestions that would lead me away from the direction of cutting the trunk at all that would be even better. BTW, single tip is not an option for my street exhaust. Looks too stupid on a fastback.

I was also contemplating making a track/dyno only exhaust with just 3" off the turbo and right out the back as simply as possible. Would you think that I would see significant gains through doing this or no?

The third thought that I had was adding an elecronic cut out going to the drivers side tip and then a muffler going to the passenger side tip. That way they would still both be there but not both always functioning. Good idea or bad?

Either way it's like trying to fit ten gallons of shit into a five gallon pail with a Fiero.

[Series8217]

I have the same problem with single exit exhaust. I want to fit a nice big muffler but I want two tips.

One possible solution: NO TIPS. Block off the tailpipe cutouts with some nice louvered panels, and put an exhaust turndown off the single inlet/single outlet muffler.
That's is how Chris West did his 3.4 DOHC turbo car and I think it looked pretty good.

[Aaron]

Ditch the Flowmaster. They don't flow for crap, and they sound like complete ass.

It seems to me you've got plenty of room for an exhaust. I've got essentially the same turbo placement (As far as exhaust goes), and I've got a full 3" exhaust (With the WG plumbed back in), a 4" inline muffler that's like 16" long, a full size Spintech muffler, dual 3" outlets, with huge AMG exhaust tips. You can easily fit a nice exhaust! Plus, it sounds great. Smooth, no rasp at all, loud enough to know it isn't stock, quiet enough not to bother you, and overall very nicely sounding.

FIrst of all, you need to run a 3". Exhaust is a critical component of turbo cars, and will kill power if it's too small. And you can't go too big. Here's a few pics of my exhaust, I'd copy it if I were you. You don't have the room for the inline muffer, but it'll sound good with just a Spintech. You can get the Spintech from WCF, it fits stock trunk and stock cradle, sounds great, and can be made for any size inlet/outlet. With a good exhaust, a cutout won't do much good, and will sound like complete shit.

I just realized I don't have any good pics. Anyways. The muffler is in basically the stock location, but the inlet is on the top driver's side, and then the two outlets are on the bottom of the muffler. You shouldn't have any problem doing something like this. Also, a video of it:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/88-F ... 193915.htm

[fieromadman]

I'll consider the spintech, but not because the flowmaster sounds like shit. Back in the day before all this tubo shit and before I couldn't get the car to idle without loping after the cams I got ALOT of complements on the flowmaster exhaust on my car.

BTW, my turbo sits considerably higher in the engine bay than yours, and I have tie rod ends in the way whereas you don't. If you follow the link, you can see the cradle to trunk wall clearance (or lack there of) with the 2.5" exhaust that I had on there before. It's a little more than halfway down the page:

http://www.fiero.com/forum/Forum2/HTML/059801-7.html

Steven, I've considered blocking off the tip exits in the bumper before, but not both, just one.

[fieromadman]

Aaron, what muffler did you put on lonzo's car? It's about the same sound that came from my tdc... a little less deep though. However if thats a spintech I might go with one because it's a much more compact unit than the flowmaster and I think I could make a better exhaust using that.

Anyone... how much could I expect to pay for ceramic coating my crossover and turbo-muffler section of my exhaust?

Also, I'm starting to get really excited for getting this damn thing going. I hope things go smoothly this spring. I really need to spend some time drawing up and getting parts made for the dogbone setup and fifth mount and intercooler related things.

I can't believe how much shit I still have to do with this damned thing.

[fieromadman]

Two more things... where are people getting those flexible rubber intake tubes (not silicone couplers) for the air filters? I think comming off the turbo I'm going to HAVE to use a flexible piece because of how close my turbo is to the shift cable bracket.

Second, I know they say on your return oil lines from t he turbo that you aren't supposed to use any sharp or 90 degree bends but would a sharp 90 into the pan be a bad idea? Its at the bottom of the drain line and right after the 90 it goes right into the pan. I think doing that is going to be the only way that I'll get a drain to work with the bung on the pan in it's current location

[Aaron]

retard, what muffler did you put on lonzo's car? It's about the same sound that came from my tdc... a little less deep though. However if thats a spintech I might go with one because it's a much more compact unit than the flowmaster and I think I could make a better exhaust using that.

Anyone... how much could I expect to pay for ceramic coating my crossover and turbo-muffler section of my exhaust?

It is a Spintech. Stock manifolds/crossover, 2.5" mandrel bent to the muffler, dual 2 1/4" to the Caddy N* tips. I'm going to stand by my statement though, as the idle and free-rev, the 3.4 will sound generally the same no matter the exhaust setup. It's the mid and top end that will sound much different. Also remember, your's will sound very different (Much better), with the turbo.

My ceramic coating was $300 for the headers and crossover, then $300 for the downpipe and full exhaust. So $600 got every component of my exhaust ceramic coated (Minus the turbine). This was a local shop, and he was sort of unreliable the second time around, but quality work nonetheless.

[Aaron]

Two more things... where are people getting those flexible rubber intake tubes (not silicone couplers) for the air filters? I think comming off the turbo I'm going to HAVE to use a flexible peice because of how close my turbo is to the shift cable bracket.

Second, I know they say on your return oil lines from t he turbo that you aren't supposed to use any sharp or 90 degree bends but would a sharp 90 into the pan be a bad idea? Its at the bottom of the drain line and right after the 90 it goes right into the pan. I think doing that is going to be the only way that I'll get a drain to work with the bung on the pan in it's current location

That shit's halfass, I hate seeing it. Find a way to do it with the silicone/aluminum tubing. I used a 4" silicone 90* bend. It was expensive, but works perfect, puts the filter in the fenderwell right behind that scoop.

I don't think it will be a problem at all, so long as it's big enough (10-AN)

[TurboGT]

Two more things... where are people getting those flexible rubber intake tubes?

Try www.siliconeintakes.com

[fieromadman]

I wasn't talking about ghetto style flexible intake tubes. I was talking about nitrate style stuff... I have a link... here it is sorry i didnt post this earlier I thought that I had since I found the link but I guess not: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/products/ ... gory_id=27

I'll probably just buy one from turbonetics because they aren't that outragously priced.

As for the drain, yeah it is a -10 an line so I guess I'll give it a go.

And I already knew about silicone intakes... I said I wasn't looking for the silicone stuff, I already have bought all my silicone couplers, t bolt clamps, and whatever else from them.