BMW advice

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:25 pm

I'm tempted:

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?c ... =255651223

What can I do with that transmission?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:28 pm

Damn. That's like identical to my new one, except it has the bigger engine, and a stick.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:04 pm

I do have to admit, you were my inspiration to look.

I was really looking for my Dad. He's into '70's Jaguars. They look great, ride great, handle great and stop great. Everything else about them, including their tendency to rust, is atrocious. My dad's solved their powertrain reliability issues with a TPI 400 SBC and 4L60E.

A newer Bimmer or Benz could probably accept that same powertrain and generally be a better (less fussy, more reliable) car, even though it wouldn't look as nice or ride as well.

This one would be for ME, though...

I just got off the phone with the seller. He says that the transmission won't shift into 3rd or 4th and pops out of reverse "sometimes". He said that other than that he's had zero problems with it.

www.car-parts.com has a few transmissions listed around the country in the $400-$500 range... there is even one that's not very far away, and I'll be near it for drill in a couple of weeks.

The 6 speed from a 540 isn't listed any lower than $800 and I suspect adapting it would be a nightmare.

Of course I could also overhaul the transmission that's in it, but I have no idea where to start looking for info on how to do that.

84fierotrevor · Post by **84fierotrevor** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:42 pm

for 1500 u can buy a stock jeep cherokee that doesn't need anything fixed and then expand your automotive fun into 4x4ing too.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:07 pm

For $500 I can buy an AMC Eagle and go almost anywhere the Cherokee will go. I've done some wheeling before... I know it's fun.

I've been googling... the trans in the 535 is the Getrag 260/6, which is a fairly nice box. Most of the info I've seen on it says don't bother to try to rebuild it, just buy another one.

Here's a Getrag 265 rebuild: http://www.pbase.com/victorhall/trans_rebuild

It appears similar to the 282...

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:25 pm

Also this is some interesting info on the various versions of the E30 M3: http://www.s14.net/specplus/comparisons.html

S8n · Post by **S8n** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:36 pm

Check your inbox, Will.

allWorkNoPlay · Post by **allWorkNoPlay** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:31 pm

buy the vette! you work in aerospace. I'm sure you make enough coin to easily afford a nice C5.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:32 pm

Haha... I want a Vette! But I'm also trying to buy a house in northern VA so the Vette will have to wait a little longer.

I've been checking out this checklist: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=979746 and it's full of good things to look at and ask about.

The Dark Side of Will · Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:40 am

Thanks for that illuminating advice. I'd better stear cleer, purely on your say-so. :scratch: :thumbleft:

Emc209i · Post by **Emc209i** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:23 pm

I thought the idea was that he was always wrong, so you should do contrary to what he says.... right?

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:32 pm

Emc209i wrote:I thought the idea was that he was always wrong, so you should do contrary to what he says.... right?

:withstupid:

If that's not sound advice, I don't know what is.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 12:20 am

I'd go with Emc. But what would I know, I just own a BMW well north of 200k.

By the way, car crossed to 213k today, and took another highway trip just fine. It is down some power, when I get some time and money I'll do plugs/wires, cold air intake, and an exhaust system. Should help. It is also leaking oil pretty badly out of the front of the motor. I'm hoping it's a filter or something of the like, I'm afraid it'll be the front main seal.

Some odd things you wouldn't expect from a 1990 car: On the highway drive, I noticed a beep. I look around, and see my driver info center, which is normally on time, had switched to outside temperature and flashed 3 times. Turns out, when outside temp gets to within 5* of freezing, it beeps, flashes 3 times, then leaves the temp up. So I hit the button to bring time back up, and it brings the time up, and leaves it up. Sweet.

The cruise control works perfect. I love it. Every car I own, you set a speed, and it varies between 1-2mph higher or lower than that speed. This car doesn't deviate at all from the set speed. Furthermore, unlike GM's, the pedal doesn't get pulled in and out with the cable, they use 2 separate cables, so the gas pedal stays in the same place, regardless of what throttle position the cruise has it at. I like this. I also like the non-GM cruise control stick. Sick of GM's piece of shit, weakass sliders and button combo on the already weakass turn signal stock.

The only gripe I have, is it has got to have tilt steering, right? So how do I tilt the steering?

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:40 am

Is everybody participating in national no-sarcasm day? :scratch:

:thumbleft:

S8n · Post by **S8n** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:54 pm

retard wrote:I'd go with Emc. But what would I know, I just own a BMW well north of 200k.

By the way, car crossed to 213k today, and took another highway trip just fine. It is down some power, when I get some time and money I'll do plugs/wires, cold air intake, and an exhaust system. Should help. It is also leaking oil pretty badly out of the front of the motor. I'm hoping it's a filter or something of the like, I'm afraid it'll be the front main seal.

Some odd things you wouldn't expect from a 1990 car: On the highway drive, I noticed a beep. I look around, and see my driver info center, which is normally on time, had switched to outside temperature and flashed 3 times. Turns out, when outside temp gets to within 5* of freezing, it beeps, flashes 3 times, then leaves the temp up. So I hit the button to bring time back up, and it brings the time up, and leaves it up. Sweet.

The cruise control works perfect. I love it. Every car I own, you set a speed, and it varies between 1-2mph higher or lower than that speed. This car doesn't deviate at all from the set speed. Furthermore, unlike GM's, the pedal doesn't get pulled in and out with the cable, they use 2 separate cables, so the gas pedal stays in the same place, regardless of what throttle position the cruise has it at. I like this. I also like the non-GM cruise control stick. Sick of GM's peice of shit, weakass sliders and button combo on the already weakass turn signal stock.

The only gripe I have, is it has got to have tilt steering, right? So how do I tilt the steering?

Front main seals are easy on those cars. Can be done in under an hour if the accessory drive cooperates. Also make sure your cat isn't clogged. Broomsticks work well :thumbleft:

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:56 pm

S8n wrote: Front main seals are easy on those cars. Can be done in under an hour if the accessory drive cooperates. Also make sure your cat isn't clogged. Broomsticks work well :thumbleft:

I hope you're right! I'll be looking at it this weekend. As for the cat, I was more thinking I'd clean it with an angle grinder. But I guess I'll try your version first.

THE PUNISHER · Post by **THE PUNISHER** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:26 am

retard wrote:I'd go with Emc. But what would I know, I just own a BMW well north of 200k.

By the way, car crossed to 213k today, and took another highway trip just fine. It is down some power, when I get some time and money I'll do plugs/wires, cold air intake, and an exhaust system. Should help. It is also leaking oil pretty badly out of the front of the motor. I'm hoping it's a filter or something of the like, I'm afraid it'll be the front main seal.

Some odd things you wouldn't expect from a 1990 car: On the highway drive, I noticed a beep. I look around, and see my driver info center, which is normally on time, had switched to outside temperature and flashed 3 times. Turns out, when outside temp gets to within 5* of freezing, it beeps, flashes 3 times, then leaves the temp up. So I hit the button to bring time back up, and it brings the time up, and leaves it up. Sweet.

The cruise control works perfect. I love it. Every car I own, you set a speed, and it varies between 1-2mph higher or lower than that speed. This car doesn't deviate at all from the set speed. Furthermore, unlike GM's, the pedal doesn't get pulled in and out with the cable, they use 2 separate cables, so the gas pedal stays in the same place, regardless of what throttle position the cruise has it at. I like this. I also like the non-GM cruise control stick. Sick of GM's peice of shit, weakass sliders and button combo on the already weakass turn signal stock.

The only gripe I have, is it has got to have tilt steering, right? So how do I tilt the steering?

You have owned your car for what a few days now?? Start yappin in a year when everything on it has gone tits up. That little center control panel is going to start to flicker , then it will just turn on and off randomly , then it will start to affect the radio....ect....ect. Absolute worst years for BMW's ..

But what do I know , I have had 3 BM's incl. an M car, worked at a BMW dealership

The Dark Side of Will · Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:07 am

For better or for worse I'm now a BMW owner.

What's the difference between a BMW and a porcupine?

As touched on above, the car needs a transmission. www.car-parts.com lists a few in the $400-$500 range, one of which is even fairly close to where I go for drill so I could pick it up sans shipping in about three weeks.

The car will ALSO probably need an exhaust fairly soon. I didn't really crawl under it, but sticking my head in from the side it looked like the exhaust was fairly rusty and had some incipient leaks.

There's a rust spot at the bottom rear of the driver's door. A wire brush and urethane paint could take care of that.

The engine needs to have the valve lash adjusted.

Beyond that it's got several niggling interior issues that don't look hard to fix.

So: transmission, exhaust, buff & touch on the paint and some spit and polish and it might flip for $4K.

Of course the big deal is that I got a decent Bimmer for Fiero money.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:26 am

The Dark Side of Will wrote:For better or for worse I'm now a BMW owner.

What's the difference between a BMW and a porcupine?

As touched on above, the car needs a transmission. www.car-parts.com lists a few in the $400-$500 range, one of which is even fairly close to where I go for drill so I could pick it up sans shipping in about three weeks.

The car will ALSO probably need an exhaust fairly soon. I didn't really crawl under it, but sticking my head in from the side it looked like the exhaust was fairly rusty and had some incipient leaks.

There's a rust spot at the bottom rear of the driver's door. A wire brush and urethane paint could take care of that.

The engine needs to have the valve lash adjusted.

Beyond that it's got several niggling interior issues that don't look hard to fix.

So: transmission, exhaust, buff & touch on the paint and some spit and polish and it might flip for $4K.

Of course the big deal is that I got a decent Bimmer for Fiero money.

Sweet dude! I tell you what. I'll take pics if you do.

Do yourself a favor, and put in a manual. Although I like my auto (Easy to drive), it really does suck whatever life the 2.5 had right out. Not to mention the weight. The guys on bimmerforum say it's a really straightforward swap too. *Edit* Just read that it is a 535 manual. You'll like that much better than the 2.5 auto, no doubt. Is the 535 still a 6? 3.2l or what? It probably uses the same tranny as the 525.

The exhaust is stainless, I'm not sure where it's rusting on your's, just bolts/flanges? Mine needs to be replaced, but not because of rust or leaks.

My car has a couple small rock chips that have started to rust. You seem to be much more inclined to fix it than I.

What interior issues?

The Dark Side of Will · Sun Jan 18, 2009 12:26 pm

I don't know the exact displacement, but the engine is the M30B34, which is in the 3.4-3.5 neighborhood. It says 3.5 on the intake manifold. The 325's got the M20B25. Your 1990 car should have the M20 also. I don't think the M50 came out until '93, but I could be remembering that poorly.

BMW engines are called MXXBYY where XX is the family/series and YY is the displacement. Motorsport engines are designated S instead of M.

The M20 and M50 are BMW's "small block" engines. The M30 is the "big block". For '93 or '94 the M30 was replaced with a V8 (I don't know the designation), which had the Nikasil liner problems. The V8 cars are the 530, 540, 545 and 550.

Both the M20 and M30 are mated to the Getrag 260 transmission. They have different bellhousing patterns, so the boxes don't interchange.

After crawling around under it a little today...
I see that the exhaust is stainless. The catalyst heat shield is not and is on its way to rotting.
The shell or heat shielding (not sure which) around the muffler just behind the catalyst is thoroughly rotted. The innermost structure could still be stainless, though. I can't tell.
The exhaust DOES leak slightly at the joint between the catalyst and the cat-back. I saw vapor coming from that joint when I was test-driving the car. So it may not need such significant exhaust work as I initially thought.

Also, the PO told me that the exhaust has to be dropped to get the transmission out, but it looks like this might not be the case. I'll see when I actually do get the trans out.

It'll probably take a couple of weeks to get a transmission, so I may yank the current trans and take it apart to see what's wrong with it.

Pics will probably wait until spring when I can get it clean and wash/wax/detail. I'm not a pro by any means, but this is the first car I've had that's even close to worth the effort.