Getrag 282 rebuild

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:48 pm

So after looking around and weighing my options I have decided to rebuild the sock trans. I am trying to come up with all of the tools, part numbers, instructions and helpful threads I have come across and link them in one place. I have not started my rebuild yet so I need the help of those who have performed this to chime in if you would.

Rebuild Kit
http://www.highgeartransmission.com/ I just ordered the kit and it was $248+shipping.
KIT INCLUDES BEARINGS, GASKETS, SEALS, AND SYNCHRO RINGS

Bearing Shims

Code: Select all

Diff (SET11) & Output Inner Bearing (SET5) Shims
Shim dimensions:2.421 OD     2.165 ID
Chrysler P/N's
P/N          Thickness
04883546AA   0.42
04883545AA   0.46
05222345     0.50
05222346     0.54
05222347     0.58
05222348     0.62
05222349     0.66
05222350     0.70
05222351     0.74
05222352     0.78
05222353     0.82
05222354     0.86
05222355     0.90
05222356     0.94
05222357     0.98
05222358     1.02
05222359     1.06
05222360     1.10
05222361     1.14
05222362     1.18
05222363     1.22
05222364     1.26
05222365     1.30
05222366     1.34
05222367     1.38
05222368     1.42
05222369     1.46
05222370     1.50
05222371     1.54
05222372     1.58

See Will's "Muncie Insight" thread (lists both GM and Chrysler part numbers):
http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... e+insights

Good threads to read for tips and tricks for the rebuild
--"Getrag 282 insights"
http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... ld&start=0
--"DOHC: 1, Isuzu: 0 -- Getrag swap!"
http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... ts&start=0

Tools needed for the swap (Need some help from those who have performed the actual rebuild here):
--Instructions for rebuilding the 5spd Getraq/Muncie can be found here
http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=1

--Shim Selector tool:
The manual suggests using Kent More tool J-26935 for selecting the shim size.
Picture of Tool J-26935

--Bearing puller (You can rent this from Autozone if you don't have one):
P/N: OEM27078

--Other specialty tools suggested?

I will be editing this post and trying to keep it up to date as I perform the rebuild.

The Dark Side of Will · Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:47 pm

Your title says Getrag 282, but it sounds like you're talking about a Muncie.

Never heard of the 33373 before, but it looks like they both do the same job. Just get a set from ebay.

If you are talking about the 282, you'll need a 15 ton press to get the output cluster apart.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:02 pm

Magnetic tray a tube of elbow grease and 6 quarts of patience.

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:01 pm

I though they were they same tranny?? What are the differences between the two? Is the 282 the FWD trans?

I guess it is the Muncie, it is the stock 87 Gt 5 speed.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:56 pm

muncie = stock fiero 4spd
Getrag=282 = stock fiero v6 5spd or FWD 5speed
Isuzu = stock fiero 4cyl 5speed

The Dark Side of Will · Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:17 pm

TurboGT wrote:I though they were they same tranny?? What are the differences between the two? Is the 282 the FWD trans?

I guess it is the Muncie, it is the stock 87 Gt 5 speed.

That's a 282.

Good luck! :scratch:

You'll need a 15 ton press to take the output cluster apart. You'll need to get creative and build some tools and fixtures you help you with all the other press jobs involved.

The Dark Side of Will · Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:20 pm

Check out McMaster-Carr PN 6342K3. It's expensive, but that type of bearing separator is what I've always used and it's very helpful.

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:16 pm

the Getrag design was produced at the Muncie, Indiana facility. The 4-speed Muncie was a GM design rather than a getrag design. Getrag is a German company.

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:22 pm

Rebuild kit showed up yesterday.......

So the engine/trans was pulled out today

The part number on the box says BK234WS (86-on 5spd FWD Muncie Met)
List of parts included in the kit:
2 - Set 11 bearings (koyo)
1 - 6035 bearing (Nachi Quest)
1 - 5206A2RSNR bearing (SKF)
1 - Input shaft bearing (GM P/N 08672128)
1 - F391436 bearing
2 - Outupt CV seals
2 - Shifter seals
1 - Detent cover
3 - smaller blocker rings
2 - larger blocker rings

I also rented a bearing/race installer for Autozone part number 27119

According to a few Google searches the 76mm manual trans that the 1986 factory manual refers to is the 5 spd Isuzu.

Anyone have the repair manual for the 282?

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:22 pm

www.rodneydickman.com

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:48 am

fieronews.net has the fsm's which cover the tr5anny rebuild in detail

The Dark Side of Will · Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:58 am

BTW, in the shim P/N list above, only the SET 11 shims matter because that's the only bearing in the 282 that needs to be shimmed.

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:37 pm

Well I dug into the trans today and after I split the case and started inspecting everything. I looked over the diff bearings, input shaft and output shaft (only the ones on the bellhousing side) and everything seems to be in very good shape (I will try and snap some more pics tomorrow, it is to dark in the garage). Here is the magnet from the bottom of the trans:

I think that someone has rebuilt this trans because the detent cover had a hole punched in it and the shift shaft detent cover had silicone all the way around it.
If I decide to not do a complete overhaul what do you guys suggest I replace while I have it open? I was going to at least do the diff bearings.

Seeing no apparent problems and wondering what was was causing the whining sound when I was driving I started inspecting the clutch/pressure plate while still bolted to the flywheel and couldn't see anything wrong. I decided to pull the pressure plate off and here is what I found....

I am definitely NOT going to buy another spec clutch, this thing has only been in for 2 years with less than 20K of driving and the disk is almost completely worn out. I would consider the miles on the clutch light to easy mileage and would expect a "normal" clutch to have easily been able to hold up to the way I drove on it. What kind of clutch do you guys suggest I look at? The pressure plate seems to be in good condition what about different clutch disks?

jelly2m81 · Post by **jelly2m81** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:43 pm

I'd say since you have the kit, you may as well install all the new stuff. just because the case was apart before that don't mean it's been rebuilt.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:20 am

Did your clutch rattle a lot before failure?

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:15 am

http://www.clutchnet.com/home.php

I bought this disk from there and a matching "red" pressure plate... hoping that it works out well for the power I will be putting down!
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1

I had a sepc in there previously and I can tell you that comparing these two side by side, there is no comparison. Clutchnet might be a heavier unit over all (as far as the sprung hubs go anyhow) but it should definately take one hell of a beating![/list]

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:46 pm

So I think I want to get a clutch that is going to laster a littler longer than the last one..... How long do normal metallic clutches last?

Which one do you guys think will have the best life/performance ratio?
6-puck metallic
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1

Fiber-carbon
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1

Kevlar
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1

Organic
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=2

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:50 pm

Driving style and clutch life trade. If you have a driving style (read: max performance launch technique) that slips the clutch a lot, then you'll wear it out fast no matter what it is.

That being said, some things are more heat resistant than others. If you slip it much, you'll cook an organic disk and ruin it by glazing/charring the surface long before you wear all the friction material away.

Carbon is the most heat resistance friction material.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:35 pm

I used a clutchnet clutch with red pressure plate with my old 2.8 and nitrous setup. It ws a kevlar on one side and organic on the other side. It held up to around 250 lb ft of tq I think and drove like stock. Didn't have much power holding ability though.

I am now running a WCF kevlar/kevlar on both sides and its holding around 400 wtq I would guess but I can't add more power if very little and it will start to slip. I have reached the holding power of this clutch.

So Iwould say based on your 3.4 turbo you would want something that can hold 300 hp for quite some time. I am guessing you want it to last longer then 20k miles? If I were you I would look into the 6 puck metallic or the kevlar. However if the kevlar one is organic on the other side I would stay away as it won't have the holding power for your setup.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:36 pm