Clutch discussion

[Indy]

The L4 Iron Duke is for the 12 bolt SD crank pattern.

[The Dark Side of Will]

For the QM setup, there are four basic pieces to worry about:

-The button
-The ring gear (for QM this is a separate piece of metal that bolts to the button)
-The clutch
-The TOB

I've been considering Tilton parts because Tilton has more dimensional and engineering data available on their website than QM does. Also, the off the shelf QM button that works with the V6 don't work with the Northstar because of the different bolt pattern.
For the Tilton setup, you'll need two custom parts:
-The flywheel (this is a button with a ring gear welded to it)
-The TOB holder (this adapts a standard Tilton mechanical TOB to either the internal or external release arm 282 throw out linkages)
I have designed both of these parts, but have not produced any prototypes.

You'll then need an off the shelf TIlton clutch and mechanical TOB. The off the shelf clutch will have to have the bolts holding the diaphragm pivot to the PP cover reversed to fit the 282 bellhousing.

That's the minimum you need to get the clutch working, but you'll end up with a pedal twisting effort.

Tilton P/N's are in my Tilton Clutch thread: http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3376

[Shaun41178(2)]

is buying directly from spec the cheapest place to get a spec clutch? Or will summit or someone else have it cheaper? I think I am just going to go with the stage 5

[Atilla the Fun]

I don't think Summit even carries Spec.

[Aaron]

I got my Clutchnet in today.

It looks good. Except the pressure plate is fucking broken. There are 3 "straps" that seem to hold the disc part of the plate to the hat, and they are riveted. Well one of the rivets was broken when I got it. They are going to pay to ship it back, fix it, then send it back out to me.

[The Dark Side of Will]

That happened to my first Centerforce IN USE. Be glad it happened to you *before* you installed it.

[Atilla the Fun]

why not drill the rivets and replace them with bolts?

[Aaron]

Because it's not my problem to fix. I guess that'd work, but I didn't spend that much on a clutch to have to rebuild it myself.

[The Dark Side of Will]

why not drill the rivets and replace them with bolts?

A) Didn't know that would be a failure mode when I put it in.

B) Not worth it. There are enough offerings on the market (Tilton!) that I can do muuuuch better than bandaiding a marginal product and crossing my fingers.

[Atilla the Fun]

A) fair enough if you believe it's at all okay to have any rivets anywhere in your drivetrain, I just assumed every racer always does this mod to every clutch kit. (B) costs much much more, but is also fair enough.

[Shaun41178(2)]

got my spec clutch in today. Stage 5 cintored iron, unsprung. also going to try an aluminum flywheel. I think I am going to start a new build thread showing a 3500 install.

[Blue Shift]

got my spec clutch in today. Stage 5 cintored iron, unsprung. also going to try an aluminum flywheel. I think I am going to start a new build thread showing a 3500 install.

I've always wondered how much you can abuse a steel crank 3500 with boost? 500 HP? Certainly with pistons and rods... Do it!

[fieromadman]

Aaron,

First bad thing I've heard about clutchnet. Glad they are going to fix it for you though!

And Shaun, sounds like an interesting project you're starting. Do share more!