The Mule rides again (sort of) - pics.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Ordered the ECM connectors today. They're still available under the numbers shown in the service information, which is fortunate. They're Molex MX123 connectors, but specific variants sold exclusively to GM, so Molex won't send me any. The ECM uses a single 14ga ground wire, which crimps into a single Yazaki terminal which must be one of the GM-specific features of the connector.

Progress! I have to agree with the guy who doesn't like the double stuffed terminals, the seals aren't designed for it. if it were going on my car like that, I would consider putting some silicone grease in the connector to act as a backup for the seal.

what all is left on the list before "first fire"?

Double stuffing wouldn't work well in a single-wire sealed connector, but connectors--like the CS130 connector--that have "whole connector" seals should be pretty ok.

LOL! Sooooo many things...

Coil harnesses, VSS, backup lights, canister vent/purge
Trim decklid hinge box a little more
Deal with fuel tank vent hard line
Fuel hose by tank; pump any remaining fuel out of tank (hope pump isn't gunked from E10 deposits)
Bunch of engine bay prep (heater hoses, A/C hoses, general clean up and finding old parts)
Install engine then wire C500 & C503, C203, C204, DLC, ECM, Electrical center

Even once the engine is in and hooked up, I still need to complete my design of my firewall reinforcement plate to carry the clutch pedal stop and accelerator pedal position sensor bracket.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Observations for bundle size vs DR-25 size.

2x 16ga (AC Comp): 3/16 minimum
2x 22ga: 3/16 normal
3x 22ga (Oil/AC Pressure, Oil level): 3/16 normal
2x16ga + 2x22ga (Oil Sender): 1/4 minimum

3x 22ga + 20ga + 18ga (MAF): 1/4" minimum
4x 22ga + 2x 18ga (DBW): 3/8" normal
5x 22ga + 2x 16ga (Oil Sender + Oil Press): 3/8" normal
5x 20ga + 2x 16ga (Coils): 3/8" normal
10x 22ga (Valley): 1/2" normal
8x 22ga + 2x 16ga (Oil Sender + OIl Press + Oil Level): 1/2" normal
11x 22ga + 4x 16ga (OIl Sender + OIl Press + Oil Level + AC Press + AC Comp): 1/2" normal
8x 20ga + 3x 22ga + 2x 16ga (Injectors): 1/2" minimum

[The Dark Side of Will]

Even once the engine is in and hooked up, I still need to complete my design of my firewall reinforcement plate to carry the clutch pedal stop and accelerator pedal position sensor bracket.

And wire up the APP sensor, also maybe the cruise switches as well.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Ordered the ECM connectors today. They're still available under the numbers shown in the service information, which is fortunate. They're Molex MX123 connectors, but specific variants sold exclusively to GM, so Molex won't send me any. The ECM uses a single 14ga ground wire, which crimps into a single Yazaki terminal which must be one of the GM-specific features of the connector.

Ordered them Monday, didn't get the shipping notification--meaning only that the shipping label was generated--until Friday. Amazon has spoiled us all.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I tried reworking the original Caddy intake manifold harness last weekend. While the "modern" 2006 LS system powers each bank of injectors from a single fuse. The Caddy powers every other injector in the firing order from a single fuse. That means that each bank has two injectors powered by each feed. Since the production break connector has a single contact from each injector fuse, there have to be splices that divide those feeds to power four injectors each. The locations of those splices significantly restrict the ways that harness can be reworked. I got it all done and just wasn't satisfied with the result, so I'll build my own from scratch.

The GM manifold harness includes both injector feeds, all 8 injector control wires and the MAP sensor, totaling 13 wires. GM uses a 22(?) cavity round connector for this. The pin side of that connection is obsolete and almost no one has or can get it, so I'm not snagging one. The socket side is available as it's used on 4 speed automatic transmissions as well. The contact family is the MicroPack 100W terminals also used on LT1 and LS1 PCMs. IOW, everything about that connector pair is weird.

I can move the MAP sensor wires to the main harness and use a 10 cavity GT150 disconnect, which I've already ordered. Now that I think about it a little more, the asshole in me wants to use GT280 contacts for the injector feeds, even though that's overkill. There is a GT150/280 14 cavity mixed connector pair, of which I'm already using a set to replace the stock C203 connector pair (well... trio). I guess I need to get my stuff together and make sure I have all the right parts. I'm out of 3/16 DR-25 and need to order extra wire for the new manifold harness and disconnect as well.

I'm planning not to work on the car this weekend as I want to get in the habit of doing a "quarterly reset" at home, so I can still order everything and probably have it next weekend. I'll be taking a 96 for the Columbus Day holiday and have a goal of getting the manifold and coil park harnesses COMPLETE by the end of the weekend.

[The Dark Side of Will]

After looking at potential locations for a manifold harness production break, and all the inconveniences and/or clutter associated with the available locations, I decided to ditch the manifold production break and just lay the injector wiring in as part of the main harness. I was able to get most of the injector wiring laid in last weekend. I have made 8 of the 12 required splices and just need to run the two feed wires, then splice them into the 4 intermediate wires. I preserved the Cadillac method of wiring every other injector in the firing order to alternating feeds.

I took a 4 day and originally planned to hammer on the manifold and coil pack harnesses until they were done. However, I found out that alumni of a SeaBee battalion I in which I served in 2011, and subsequently decommissioned in 2013, were having a 10 year decommissioning reunion over the weekend, so that disrupted my car plans.

I removed the coil pack from the engine and took it with me with the intent of completing the coil pack wiring "on the bench". With preparing a trip to Akron for my first drill weekend with my new Navy unit, I have not been able to do any of that yet, but hope to be able to next week.

I'll probably be working on the Jeep for the next few weekends after that. If I can get the wiring on the engine completed, then I can at least pull it off the stand, bolt up the transmission and drop the powertrain on the cradle to start putting things back together again.

[zok15]

I have used black silicone vacuum line for protecting harnesses and other tubing from rub areas, I just split it with a razor and zip tie it around the offending harness or hose. It is very flexible, durable, heat resistant, and can be found thin walled and in a large range of sizes and wall thicknesses.

[The Dark Side of Will]

After working on the Jeep and going to Navy drill over the last few weekends, I was able to get back to the Northstar last weekend.

I finished up the injector wiring. The last thing I need to wire up before I have to put the exhaust manifolds on is the MAP sensor.

I had a friend over to help and we moved the engine over to the main QC lab for a second round of glamo(u)r shots now that I've added a bunch of doodads that were not in place the first time, as well as capturing a more complete weight including all those doodads. Will post pics soon.

Engine weight came in at 373#, beating my estimate of 380# from the first weighing.

The coil pack harnesses are very fussy and time consuming, as each includes 9 splices and not very much room in which to package them.

For the Christmas weekend, I'll install exhaust manifolds and wire up the MAP and O2 sensors. I'll be satisfied if I can get those and the coil pack harnesses completed this weekend. I'll be impressed with myself if I can progress to pulling the engine off the stand to install the transmission (and wire up VSS & backup light switch) this weekend. I'm taking the entirety of next week off, so "this weekend" can be a flexible period of time but at the expense of other (really more important) activities for life administration and new year planning that I have on the calendar as well.

I'll weigh the engine again as it comes off the stand with manifolds and brackets (under 400#? ..maybe) and the entire powertrain (under 500#? ...probably not) as I drop it on the cradle. While the transmission is <100#, the alternator and AC compressor with the transmission will total more than 100#.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I just received a FaceBlech invitation from MAFOA to Fieros at Carlisle next June. I should have The Mule running by then and be able to drive it there. ROLF!

[The Dark Side of Will]

I have used black silicone vacuum line for protecting harnesses and other tubing from rub areas, I just split it with a razor and zip tie it around the offending harness or hose. It is very flexible, durable, heat resistant, and can be found thin walled and in a large range of sizes and wall thicknesses.

I've done similar things with hose here and there. There are dedicated edge protector products that are pretty much as cheap as hose, though.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I had a friend over to help and we moved the engine over to the QC lab for some follow up glamo(u)r photos and a "final" weight.







373 lbs including

• flywheel & clutch
• waterpump
• Accessory brackets
• Throttle & MAF
• Coil pack & plug wires

NOT included

• Exhaust manifolds
• Alternator
• AC compressor
• Wiring harness

I won't be moving the engine again, but I'll get additional weights as I install more pieces and assemble the drivetrain. I'll get a "fighting weight" of the engine with the exhaust manifolds, accessories and all the mount brackets. I'll get one with the transmission and its brackets and intermediate shaft. Then I'll get a final one of the fully assembled cradle (probably with control arms because they're already installed).

Today I spent too much time futzing with the harness dressing on the front side of the engine, screwed something up and redid it twice... But now I'm satisfied with the result







And installed the cerakoted exhaust manifolds so that I can wire up the O2 sensors.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I decided I had gotten everything done that I reasonably could on the stand and it was time to pull the engine off the stand and start assembling the driveline.

Here's the "fully dressed" weight:



Included:
Everything from last time PLUS:

• Exhaust manifolds
• Alternator
• AC Compressor
• Tensioner
• Wiring harness
• Both engine mount brackets

I ran into a couple of snags installing the transmission, but nothing severe. Shaun isn't the only one who has interference problems with the shift linkage





And the weight with transmission



Included:
Everything from the fully dressed weight PLUS

• Transmission
• Transmission mount brackets (all four drivetrain mount brackets)

Does NOT include:

• Intermediate Axle
• Intermediate axle bracket

Here's the follow-up measurement of the clutch throw out linkage. The quoted measurement is the same clutch with the stock TOB. The new measurement is with my TOB holder and PTTs conical faced TOB. Now I guess I need to take the same measurement on the Storm Trooper to see how my stack compares to a stock clutch with a few thousand miles on it.

This is with the stock TOB holder installed inside the bellhousing. This dimension should come down about 0.350" once I get my new TOB holder finished.

Edit to add:

Not sure how the measurement changed by 9/16" from switching between these two parts. Did I screw up on the first measurement? Maybe I screwed up on the second measurement... at least I can revisit that one.

Stock vs dual disk unit



Easiest Install-for-Flight ever!

[jelly2m81]

Jesus Fucking Crist Will, I Love some engineering as much as the next guy, for the love of god just put this car together

[The Dark Side of Will]

Let me know when you can swing by and help... I'm sure we'll get it together then.

[jelly2m81]

Let me know when you can swing by and help... I'm sure we'll get it together then.

Guess I didn't type that correctly, it was supposed to be a fun jibe, but yeah reading it again it doesn't read that way

[The Dark Side of Will]

Let me know when you can swing by and help... I'm sure we'll get it together then.

Guess I didn't type that correctly, it was supposed to be a fun jibe, but yeah reading it again it doesn't read that way

No sweat... It's just the internet. Everyone here is an asshole.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Before I left for Tokyo, I finally got the coil pack harnesses DONE. The coil pack connectors for each bank have seven cavities. Four are for coil signals (positive side). One is for signal ground for all four signals and goes back to the ECM. One is for power for all four coils and comes from the coil/injector power fuses which are fed from the PWRTRN relay. One is for the power ground for all four coils and just goes to the vehicle ground scheme.

Because there are three contacts in each connector which each have to connect to all four coils, there are a bunch of splices in each coil pack harness. I used closed barrel crimp butt splices with Raychem RNF-100 shrink tube (rated for 125C temps, so can be used in the engine bay). Because of the length of two splices in series with some wire in between, packaging it all on top of the rear valve cover was awkward. If I ever need to modify these, I'll use multi-wire open-barrel crimp splices like GM used. Those would be MUCH easier to package than the way I did it.

















I have not been back to work on it yet, but should this coming weekend.
With the transmission in place, I can wire up the VSS and back up lights. I should have the new MAP wires as well.
My goal this weekend is to get the powertrain on the cradle. That should be just a matter of dumb assembly. I also have to come up with a plan to modify the Sprinter manifold going into the Jeep to clear the original Jeep fuel lines. That will take some of my time this weekend.

I want to check to see if the TOB holder is still in place. If I can't do this using an inspection mirror, then I'll have to R&R the transmission. Obvi that happens before the powertrain goes on the cradle.

[ericjon262]

First, Japan is rad, I would love to go check it out again, especially as a civilian.

Second, might want to build the VSS, and back up light harness with a connector so it can be be divorced from the main harness, and adapted to other transmissions.

[The Dark Side of Will]

First, Japan is rad, I would love to go check it out again, especially as a civilian.

Second, might want to build the VSS, and back up light harness with a connector so it can be be divorced from the main harness, and adapted to other transmissions.

Japan is cool. There were the kind of snazzy JDM rides that we all used to lust after 20 years ago all over Yokota air base.
The Tokyo train system is surprisingly easy to use, ever for someone who reads exactly 0 Japanese. I was standing at one end of a packed train car, could see all the way to he other end, and realized "I'm huge in Japan!" Just their reactions when a gigantic gaijin says "arigato gozaimasu" or "sumimasen" are great as well.

I'm not at all above re-terminating or splicing onto those wires when I switch to the F40. Good point, though. I should be considering that. The G6 F40 does have a VSS, but I *think* its backup light switch is built into the shifter... I can check this weekend since my G6 F40 is at my dad's house.

So maybe I should double stuff the C500 contact for that circuit and run a couple wires into the cockpit to facilitate that... and go check out how FieroGuru set up his backup light switch.

[The Dark Side of Will]

"Big Picture" list of things to do:

• Engine bay prep (cut hinge box, heater hoses, fuel hoses, etc.)
• Finish wiring/fuel injection system
• Finish development of the firewall reinforcement plate. This will be required in order to mount the DBW accelerator pedal and a clutch pedal stop to work with the PTT clutch
• "Final" install of cradle
• Replace A-body hub carriers, brakes and outer CVs with U-body hub carriers, brakes and outer CVs
• Front LCA spherical bearing install
• Street Dreams lowering spindle install. I might go with wheel adapters to install the C5 17" fronts on the stock spindles until I can design/make improved hubs for the Street Dreams parts.
• TUNE! Take it to a nearby tuner pretty much as soon as it can start.