Shaving .6 off ET without changing parts?

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Nemesis
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Shaving .6 off ET without changing parts?

Post by Nemesis »

Local 1/4 mile is opening next month and I plan to be there. Last time I went I managed a 14.5, this time I want a 13.9? hopefully.

The car is an L44 turbo, Getrag.

Last trip I spun like crazy since my tires were about 14 years old. This time my tires are sticky and new. This alone should get me closer. I also have a bigger turbo and a ported gate and a ported crossover (you guys with Design One/Miller Woods kits, check the crossovers where the turbo bolts on!). I also plan to take off the pipe from the air can and run with no filter. It sounds like a jet this way as well! Another thing I plan to do is ice my intake and turbo pipes. This time I will also pull the spare tire/jack... forgot last time. Any other ideas?

It's going to cost me about $70 to run, so I want to make it worth my time ($40 to register a number for the season, $30ish to run for the night). It should be cold out and I can crank up the boost.

Help me break into the 13s and whip Shaun's 14.1 and get a two.eight in the 13 second bracket on the 1/4 list on Old Europe! :D

Think I have a chance??
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

YOu have to remember that you are at a higher elevation then what I ran at.

So tech you are prob faster then me but I will recommend a few things.

Take out the spare seat as well as the tire and jack. Thats about 60 lbs. Should be worth about a tenth or so.

Ice ice ice. ice down the upper intake, ice down the intake pipes if you can, and ice down the turbo compressor housing if you can.

Removing your filter housing might be counterproductive. It could create lots of turbulence unless you put some type of "funnel" device at the end of the tube. I forget the name of it offhand.

Your turbo that is bigger is the one I found you on ebay? And offtopic you still have those pipes that came with it?

put 50 lbs of air in the front tires to help with rolling resistance. Also keep tire pressure in the back stock, unless you experience traction issues. Then lower it like 5 lbs or so. In my 85 Gt I ran 25 psi in the rears to help traction off the line. I never tried it with stock pressure, I just lowered it always just in case and it always worked great at 25 psi.(1.8 60 ft times)

If you have sticky tires, I wouldnt' launch too high as you could blow the tranny. And with your turbo size it will spool quickly.

Any chance to put in anythign higher then 93 octane and give it a lb or two more of boost?
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Post by TurboGT »

Nemesis when is opening night. I might be able to come and help you if you want, or at leat cheer you on. If you have a video cam I can record your run for you it you want.
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Post by Nemesis »

Shaun, the bigger turbo is the one you found me. The turbine is much bigger than the one I had on the old turbo and the motor feels a lot better up high. I plan to bring an ice chest full of ice packs. I have a few of these can coolers for beer cans I plan to wrap around my charge pipe and leave them on for the runs.

My turbo uses a pipe from the stock air can to the turbo. I plan to remove that so air is sucked directly into the turbo (it's down low and won't suck in hot air).

I won't launch real high since I don't want to destroy my tranny. But I usully bog with the aluminum flywheel, or I light the tires up since my turbo spools instantly. It's a pain to launch sometimes.

They have race gas at the track that only costs about $74.98 a gallon. Problem is they won't pump into the car, it has to go to a can, then to the car. I guess I can take my little 2 gallon can and get my trunk smelly.

TurboGT, it opens around April 19th or so. I can bring my camcorder if you plan to go.
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Post by TurboGT »

Count me in. If you want I might be able to get you some avgas if you want, not for sure but I can check.

Also I think the gas station (I think it is a philips 66) right before you turn into the track sell high octane gas.
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Post by eHoward »

Don't know what you're doing but if you're not upping boost levels or running more timing, you don't want race fuel.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Concur. Unless you have some sort of readily tweakable engine management or boost controllter, race gas is mostly a waste.

The big power boost from race fuel doesn't come from being able to run more boost. It comes from being able to run more timing. A few degrees more ignition advance is worth a lot more power than a 1-2 psi of boost.

Do you have an intercooler? I don't expect you to get one on short notice, but water/alcohol injection can be every bit as good as any intercooler you can squeeze into a Fiero and will be cheap to obtain and easy to set up.

However, you still need some facility with engine management to take the most advantage of it.
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

I didnt' realize it was bigger. Thast cool. Makes me wonder if there was a difference between the auto and manual setups.

Maybe they used a larger exh on a auto because you were capable of brake boosting it up. Not sure though.

But the intake size is the same?

I was wondering if you have a Darrel TB or matched upper intake?

could you post some pics of those pipes?
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Post by Nemesis »

Well, I plan to run about 9 on the first pass, then up it to 12 if I don't skin the tires. It will be cold which will help with boost, but not traction. I dodge the waterbox since I don't have a spare Getrag, but I do clean the tires a lil. The highest octane I can get here is 91 at the pump and I have yet to ping with 12 psi unless it's about 90 degrees outside. (I need that GT30R!)

I do have a 15mm stubby and a timing light. What kind of advance should I try? It's stock setting now (10 BTDC?)

I also have a liquid Spearco intercooler, in a box, in my house. One day I want to get it in there, but kids take all my time right now.

Tweaking my management is a big NO right now.
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Post by Nemesis »

Shaun41178(2) wrote:I didnt' realize it was bigger. Thast cool. Makes me wonder if there was a difference between the auto and manual setups.

Maybe they used a larger exh on a auto because you were capable of brake boosting it up. Not sure though.

But the intake size is the same?

I was wondering if you have a Darrel TB or matched upper intake?

could you post some pics of those pipes?
My old turbo was a turbo I built out of junkyard parts... cost me $50. When I bought my used turbo kit, it had a turbo in a jillion pieces. When I inspected the turbine shaft I noticed it had a nick in an area that held a snap ring type of thing. The only thing I could think of was to try and find another turbo cheap to see if this thing would even work. After looking through car after car at the junkyard, I see this Isuzu Impulse with a turbo in it. It looks exactly the same! I pull it, pay my $50 and off I go. When I get it next to the kit turbo, it's smaller, much smaller. I ended up using the turbine and the shaft from the Impulse with the kit turbo's compressor and housing. AFAIK the D1 auto and manual kits use the same turbo, just clocked different.

I don't have a ported intake or TB.

What pipes do you want to see? The pipes in my car or the pipes I got off eBay?
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

I would really suggest a DM ported tb and uper when you have a chance. $100. That 52mm tb opening is killing you. 5 more mm will really help the turbo push in air, thus reducing charge temps and you seeing less boost on your gauge.

I am sure you know this but I still hve to say it. :thumbleft:

The pics of the pipes from ebay would be cool. Just need to check something uot.

I remember you saying you got one from an impulse, but when you said the one off ebay was larger, I thought you meant that you were comparing it to the factory des1 turbo you had, not hte impulse one.
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Post by Nemesis »

Yeah, I've thought about getting a ported TB, but I keep thinking I want to get a different motor, then decide to get a bigger turbo, then change my mind...

I'll send you a pic of the pipes. I might use one of them to relocate my air filter and get rid of the can. Not sure it will work though.

This turbo is small, but it gets boost fast, which is perfect for autocross. It's easy and fun as hell to do power-on oversteer (just wish I could learn to control it).
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

What else is done to your chassis?
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

Thats anotehr thing I forgot to mention. I would def get rid of that air can. Its not doing anyting for you and probably robbing power. STimpy picked up like 25 hp or so removing his and going to a straight pipe. You should def see a gain removing yours.
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Post by stimpy »

Well, truth be told, I had also replaced my IAC and my O2 sensor before my dyno run, so it could be said that not all the hp came from the intake. But I can say it breathes a WHOLE lot better now.
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

GEt tot he track yet?
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Re: Shaving .6 off ET without changing parts?

Post by Pyrthian »

Nemesis wrote:I also plan to take off the pipe from the air can and run with no filter. It sounds like a jet this way as well!
not a wise choice.
its one thing to suck dirty air thru a N/A engine, but to suck it thru a turbo - you are looking at WRECKING your compressor wheel.
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Post by Nemesis »

Working on getting it smogged and past inspection. Not a whole lot of free time during the week to get this done. It won't roll onto their lift and they won't allow me to jack the car outside their garage to pull the tires they choose to check the brakes. They can see the damn thing won't go on the lift without knocking my chin spioiler off!

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Post by TurboGT »

Pep Boys on 94th and 7th east had a lift low enough for my car and I am almost as low as you are.
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Post by alltrbo »

The Dark Side of Will wrote: The big power boost from race fuel doesn't come from being able to run more boost. It comes from being able to run more timing. A few degrees more ignition advance is worth a lot more power than a 1-2 psi of boost.
I'm a little late, but oh well.
I don't have proven dyno results, but the seat of my pants highly disagrees. As a matter of fact, race gas needs bumped timing a bit because of it burning slower, all else being equal. E85 is the same way from what I could tell when playing around with it.

21 psi on 93 to 24 psi on 116 (both with stock timing which is 16* in the upper half) made A LOT more difference than 16* on 93 to 20* on 116 (both with 21 psi). Of course 23 psi with 20* on 116 was the sweet spot, as it would start to knock pretty bad at the end of the track with 24 and 20.

All situations were tuned fairly well, of course. I've played around with that because I've wondered what makes a bigger difference, and the results definitely said BOOST. It may not be that way for all setups in all situations, but it was for me.
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