Aarons build thread?

Real tech discussion on design, fabrication, testing, development of custom or adapted parts for Pontiac Fieros. Not questions about the power a CAI will give.

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fieromadman
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Post by fieromadman »

Kohburn, what application are those injectors off of?

BTW, interesting that your stock dogbone mount (chassis side) clears
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Post by Kohburn »

http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/about_us.php

they don't seem to have them listed on the website but i remember emailing them for the correct application. they were designated for series2 3800sc but may have originally been mustang injectors - been a year since i bought them.
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Post by Aaron »

I got back to Colorado yesterday, ran a little obstacle course today, then got to work on the car. Here are a few pics of my nosy orange kat, and the powdercoated oil pan. I added about 1.5qts of capacity, bringing the total to around 7.5. You can also see the 10-AN oil drain for the turbo.

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Post by Weponhead »

I'm gonna laugh when you get an oil analysis and it says theres parts of cat in your oil.
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Post by Aaron »

I got the oil pan on and tight, no issues. Here are some pics of the clearance, it is about 1/4" above the front frame rail at the bottom of the pan, and about 1/2" below the rail at the bottom of the drain. I'm not too worried about it.

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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Aaron wrote: bringing the total to around 7.5.

? :scratch:
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Post by Aaron »

Total engine oil capacity. So when I fill it back up, I expect to add about 7.5qts.
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Post by Blue Shift »

Aaron wrote:Total engine oil capacity. So when I fill it back up, I expect to add about 7.5qts.
13 quarts + 1 cat FTW.

At least your mom didn't grow flowers or start an aquarium in it. Also don't be a pussy - oil pan clearance is for suckas. :la:
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Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:
Aaron wrote: bringing the total to around 7.5.

? :scratch:
6 + 1.5 = 7.5.
With the oil cooler, and all the surfaces for oil to stick to and stay on in the cam carriers and heads and stuff, it takes 6 quarts for stock DOHC to be full according to the dipstick... even though all the other 60*s with the same pan take five... If you look in the service manual I think they do list the capacity as 6 quarts.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Interesting that the top end holds enough oil to meaningfully affect oil capacity, but my 2.hate (same pan, right?) has always taken 4 to fill...

Wouldn't have thought that the top end and oil cooler would *each* hold a quart.
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Post by Series8217 »

You filled it with 4 quarts and had an empty filter and it read full after running it and shutting it off? I thought even the 2.8 took 5 quarts..

Maybe I'm mixed up and the DOHC takes 5 and the 2.8 took 4.. I'll loook in my service manual again when I'm at my car.
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Post by Aaron »

It took my 135k Monte Carlo (96 motor) about 5.5qts to max it on its last oil change, then another half quart once I started it for a few seconds.

But this motor is brand new, and it took me nearly 6.5 quarts just to max it before the first start. Then I had to add another half quart. So I figure once run it will be like the MC, only about 6 total per oil change, which will mean about 7.5 now.

It's nice to know now I can run a quart, dare I say 2 quarts low and it won't even really be low. Not that I'll let that happen, but not everyone checks their oil every time they drive their car. :thumbleft:
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Post by p8ntman442 »

The pan looks pretty good. The only thing I would have done different is made the -10 an fitting a female. I would want a male off the turbo and a femal on the pan, so the hose was female to male. I guess it dosent really matter.



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Post by Aaron »

I would have done that, but my Turbo came with a female fitting on it, so I didn't have much of an option short of buying a new one, which I didn't want to do.
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Post by p8ntman442 »

I'm sure with an fittings, flow is not an issue in either direction. With sloppy npt I would worry.
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Post by Aaron »

I somehow managed to get the engine support brackets back in. For anyone considering doing this, you're in for a treat. That bracket was a bitch, and it didn't help that I made it much bigger by adding the second mount.

And once I got the motor down on all of the mounts, I realized a previous problem has brought itself to the surface again. The motor is now about 1/4"-1/2" too far to the passenger side of the car. It isn't too big of a deal, but the timing belt cover is really close to the shock tower, and the UIM doesn't clear the dogbone bolt. So now I have to find a way to slide the engine over a bit. The last time this happened, I had to take the engine out of the car to oblong some mount holes and such. But since this has already been done, I should be able to slide it over. And by slide I mean push, pull, swear, pry, jack, kick, and fucking come-a-long it over.

Also, in my fit of cleaning the garage, I managed to lose my oil level sensor. I wasn't planning on using this anyways as I didn't wire it, but now I have a big hole in my oil pan. And of course it isn't any common thread, so I can't just plug it. I should have welded it before I had the pan powdercoated. But life is full of what we should have done, but didn't. It is a very fine thread, and large. I think I might just junkyard hunt for another oil level sensor, and use that.
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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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Post by fieromadman »

Aaron wrote: ...and the UIM doesn't clear the dogbone bolt...
fieromadman wrote: BTW, interesting that your stock dogbone mount (chassis side) clears
Looks like someone called that.
*SOLD* 95 3.4 DOHC- 96-97 p&p lower intake, custom upper intake, custom cams, ported exh manis, 180* t-stat.
T-62 Turbonetics T3/T4, air-liquid intercooled, Synapse 40mm, Greddy RS, Haltech E6K.
1987 GT, lowered, KYB's, clutchnet 6 puck, G/A brakes
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Post by Aaron »

Hey now...lol

It clears if the motor is where I want it, all of the way to the driver's side on the factory oblong mount holes. However it seems each time I fuck with it, it lands right in the middle of the oblongs because of how I was lifting it (Engine hoist on the engine's dogbone bracket).
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Post by Kohburn »

sounds like you need and engine hoist load leveler to help control it better
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Post by Aaron »

I would, but for this I needed it to only lift the end of the engine, I didn't want it to levelly lift the entire engine.
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