Those are both tight, very tight, with locktite, and held with 2 nuts on each. I learned the hard way of those loosening up. It feels just like that, but not nearly that bad.Series8217 wrote:The only thing I've noticed that severely affects on/off throttle behavior on the 88 is the loooooong bolt that holds the lateral links to the rear knuckle.
Aaron's build thread.
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
- Series8217
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Dude, I had a random tendancy for my one 88 to have random tracking at higher speeds.Aaron wrote:My front bushings need replacing, but other than that, the suspension components are all good. Too much engine.
I replaced the old bushings in the front and the inner tierods and now it tracks straight and true, and handles better than ever.
Ya , but since then it's been smashed and on a frame machine to get straightened, true?Aaron wrote:Car was aligned very recently, with the new tires.
Even if anything in the suspension is questionable, replace it. The forces of the weight of the car plus speed acting apon the components are far far greater than any of us can ever apply while checking stuff.
- Series8217
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I just had EXACTLY THAT happen to me (well... not *exactly*). I installed a Timken bearing in my Formula and within about 2000 miles it was loose as a goose. It seemed to happen overnight as well. I parked the car in the garage early in the week, rode my bike to work all week and when I pulled the car out on Friday it was all over the road thanks to a sloppy bearing.Series8217 wrote:I had a Timken rear wheel bearing give me that symptom too.. after 500 miles of use. peice of shit...
I bought a National unit to replace it. I'm having the preload fitting tack welded to the center sleeve to prevent a loss-of-preload failure on this one. I think that's what happened to the Timken, and I KNOW that's what happened to the hub before the Timken. The Timken makes a ringing noise that would indicate to me that the bearing isn't bad... it just loosened up. The hub before that fell apart when I took the knuckle out to modify it for full camber adjustment.
I've read on the Fiero Racing List that people have gotten the E-bearing '88 front hubs to be durable by disassembling them, repacking with high temp grease and tack welding the preload fitting to the center post on reassembly.
I may have to start a "wheel bearing tech" thread...
EDIT: YAY I can post here now!
- Series8217
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A little bit of an update.
I completely cleaned out the new door. It had been stored outside for at least a year, and it was dirty. Also, the door rods (Lock, opening, etc), were bent and not operating smoothly. I bent them all back straight, cleaned them, and well oiled/greased/WD40'ed them. Everything there operates smoothly now. I then removed the window and dew wipes. Cleaned the window, and having it tinted to 15%, and ordered a pair of Stew's dew wipes. Cleaned out the window tracks, and regreased them. I haven't put the window back in, but everything operates smoothly. Panels get painted this week. Oh, I luckily still had my old lock cylinder, so I swapped that over too.
On to the more entertaining part. I did a logged, WOT run from a 2500 roll in 1st, to midway through 4th on the highway. In 1st and 2nd, the A:F is steady at 11.5. Through 3rd, it rises and holds at 12, then in 4th it starts at 12.5ish, and with RPM smoothly drops itself down to about 11.5 by 5500rpm. I'm going to do what Shaun said, and tune for 4th, and the est of the gears will work themselves out. It's just hard to do 4th gear runs, but I can get it to about 5500-6000 without too much difficulty, so I've been doing that. And in the past, the MAF adjustments haven't changed from 6k to 7, so it should be ok. I am going to try to get to the dyno next week.
I completely cleaned out the new door. It had been stored outside for at least a year, and it was dirty. Also, the door rods (Lock, opening, etc), were bent and not operating smoothly. I bent them all back straight, cleaned them, and well oiled/greased/WD40'ed them. Everything there operates smoothly now. I then removed the window and dew wipes. Cleaned the window, and having it tinted to 15%, and ordered a pair of Stew's dew wipes. Cleaned out the window tracks, and regreased them. I haven't put the window back in, but everything operates smoothly. Panels get painted this week. Oh, I luckily still had my old lock cylinder, so I swapped that over too.
On to the more entertaining part. I did a logged, WOT run from a 2500 roll in 1st, to midway through 4th on the highway. In 1st and 2nd, the A:F is steady at 11.5. Through 3rd, it rises and holds at 12, then in 4th it starts at 12.5ish, and with RPM smoothly drops itself down to about 11.5 by 5500rpm. I'm going to do what Shaun said, and tune for 4th, and the est of the gears will work themselves out. It's just hard to do 4th gear runs, but I can get it to about 5500-6000 without too much difficulty, so I've been doing that. And in the past, the MAF adjustments haven't changed from 6k to 7, so it should be ok. I am going to try to get to the dyno next week.
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.