Aaron's build thread.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:27 pm

That dynojet software works off of the reading from the tps sensor itself. The sensor could be bad. You can check it with the car not running.

Turn the key to On, and you can read the TPS voltage. Try to close the tb blade more then when you let off the pedal. If the voltage drops and you can feel it close further, then its binding somewheres.

My safc reads tps voltage too, and with my car off key in run it reads 0%, when I go WOT it does read 100% too. I am thinking your tps sensor is bad.

Jinxmutt · Post by **Jinxmutt** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:19 pm

It may also be a voltage offset. Make sure you have an appropriate ground. I had this issue with my LC-1. Does your unit have adjustment?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:23 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:That dynojet software works off of the reading from the tps sensor itself. The sensor could be bad. You can check it with the car not running.

Turn the key to On, and you can read the TPS voltage. Try to close the tb blade more then when you let off the pedal. If the voltage drops and you can feel it close further, then its binding somewheres.

My safc reads tps voltage too, and with my car off key in run it reads 0%, when I go WOT it does read 100% too. I am thinking your tps sensor is bad.

The TPS is brand new, came installed on the new N* throttle bodies that, I think it was whipped, was selling. I'll check it when I get the motivation though. Won't be hard to check, I just like driving the car too much. However, it could be messing with the PCM if the sensor isn't reading right.

Jinxmutt wrote:It may also be a voltage offset. Make sure you have an appropriate ground. I had this issue with my LC-1. Does your unit have adjustment?

The grounds should be good, it grounds through the PCM. But I'll check resistance to ground.

Thanks for the help guys!

I'm not sure, it's a generic GM TPS sensor.

MstangsBware · Post by **MstangsBware** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:08 pm

Are you sure you are ready to charge someone to swap in a DOHC swap? Someone that isnt local and will have to drive the car from CO to OK and then not have anyone around to work on it.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:43 am

MstangsBware wrote:Are you sure you are ready to charge someone to swap in a DOHC swap? Someone that isnt local and will have to drive the car from CO to OK and then not have anyone around to work on it.

Well, as with anything of this caliber, it won't have a warranty. But it'll be running/driving perfect when I deliver it. Anything that happens after that is the owner's responsibility. Also, remember, my black DOHC car is not a standard DOHC swap. It is using a highly modified (In the 3.4 world) engine, on OBD1.5 (Not many of us running around), with very unique parts of the swap. So there are bound to be issues.

However this swap is using a harness that I built, and drove daily for a couple years. I know the harness is good. Plus it uses a stock engine, on a stock chip, with common OBD1 EFI.

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:52 am

TPS closed throttle position is learned on battery power up. Reset it by disconnecting the battery for a few sec. Should correct the 10% throttle issue.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:25 am

whipped wrote:TPS closed throttle position is learned on battery power up. Reset it by disconnecting the battery for a few sec. Should correct the 10% throttle issue.

DAMMIT. That means I have to redo all of my radio's shit again (Time, presets, color, video, etc.).

I swear, every fucking stereo sold in a newer GM car has a backup power source. I've had the battery in our SS disconnected for weeks, and drove it yesterday. Radio remembered every setting. Now how the fuck does GM have a backup power supply on their cheapass, made in BFE China decks, when my $600 Kenwood Double Din MP3 player doesn't?

Xanth · Post by **Xanth** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:28 am

You can buy one, they make small in-line devices for that purpose.

Jinxmutt · Post by **Jinxmutt** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:38 am

You can build a simple battery backup circuit for your headunit for when the battery is disconnected. I saw something like that on a high dollar custom install. I don't remember the details but I'm sure if you're interested and determined you can find it via google.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:48 pm

Technical discussion is not allowed in this section. Get onto a non-technical subject or this will be moved to maintenance or tech. Probably maintenance, but I'm sure you know what its fate will be if moved to tech.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:25 pm

Will will delete it.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:46 pm

Aaron wrote:Will will delete it.

I'd clean it up so it had a higher signal to noise ratio.

I don't have a problem with helping you. I don't have a problem with you following through successfully on a build.

I have a problem with your attitude. When you realize that you have a problem that you can't solve and that you don't know everything, you're not such a bad guy.

But when you crawl back into your malignantly narcissistic shell, you're one obnoxious son of a bitch.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:48 pm

Your version of cleaning up involves deleting every post I make, and none no one else makes.

The Dark Side of Will · Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:54 pm

When I have to delete posts, I delete plenty of people's besides yours. However, I'd guess that about half the posts I delete are yours.

The typical way this happens:

Aaron: "Post that, while perhaps factually correct, contributes far more inflammatory than factual content"

Everyone Else: "Pissed off responses to inflammatory posts"

The inflammatory content is *typically* derogatory to someone else's efforts while expounding on the virtues of your own.

I'll demonstrate:

Random Joe: "I picked XYZ turbo for my setup because it was cheap"

Random Fred: "I think that QRS turbo would be better for that application, but I understand that you're constrained by your budget."

Aaron: "That's a crappy turbo. You should have done what *I* did and spent lots of money. If you do anything less than what I did, then your setup is junk."

That gets about as annoying to everyone else as my relentless beratement is to you.

Understand?

Now play nice and we can all get along.

And for the record, if this thread were moved to Tech, I would delete my own posts because they are inflammatory.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 1:30 pm

There's a reason this post isn't in tech. I don't want you touching it. Or speaking in it, for that matter.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 3:23 pm

This isn't a safe-haven section, Aaron. Circumventing the organization of the forum because you can't get along with moderators isn't going to work.
RFT vs The World is where you can post without getting posts removed. If you want your posts intact I'll put this thread there. Just let me know in a PM. If I decide to move it to maintenance the rules there will apply. Read them:
http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15480

More importantly, familiarize yourself with the rules of the section you're currently posting in:
http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4782

I DO sweep through and apply my moderation abilities here (and in Maintenance) when necessary. Since discussions here are of a non-technical nature they're generally not great archive material, so I'm more inclined to move a thread that has turned nasty over to RFT vs The World rather than clean up the bickering. If you want to get into dick slapping contests, you should do it in the section it belongs in.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 3:56 pm

But you don't go through and delete every post I make. Will does.

I still can't get the WB Commander to get a RPM signal. The dumbass at DynoJet said it was because I am using a very unconventional ignition. Fucking retard, GM used it for nearly a decade on over half of every car made, and it's still used today.

He said since the ground grounds the ICM, and not the coil independently, T-ing to the negative won't work. So he said T into the tach feed from the PCM. I told him my PCM doesn't send the tach a signal, my ICM does that directly. He said that is weird :scratch:

I'm going to try tying into the ground to a fuel injector, see if that gives me a signal.

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:08 pm

I don't know a thing about your programming, but I know about tuning a carbureted engine. 10 degrees is a good initial advance, if you're gonna add some vacuum advance. This will, among other things, smooth out the idle. Initial timing with vacuum advance should be over 30 degrees, combined. 50 is kind of alot, but I'm inclined to believe it. 10 would idle rather poorly.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:12 pm

The timing is stock, and doing whatever stock does, even with the boost. Central spark plug FTW.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 7:15 pm

That's odd. They should be able to put an inductive sensor on one of your spark plug wires and set the appropriate divider value for a 6-cylinder wasted-spark ignition system. That's what they do at the smog test station..