Aaron's build thread.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:39 pm

We'll see. If it gets over about $2000, I may just tell my friend to buy me another, and I'll redo the engine swap and part mine out.

Atilla the Fun · Post by **Atilla the Fun** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:35 pm

I'm with Aaron in his perspective on this.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:58 pm

We got all of the body parts off.

The front fender, door, and rear rocker panel are trash. Can these come off any Fiero, or do they have to be GT aero pieces? My aero ground affects are still good, will they just swap over?

It doesn't look too bad. Maaco is charging $213 to pull the A pillar, where the door hinges bolt to, back out.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:45 pm

Pics of the damage (specifically the A-pillar)?

The Dark Side of Will · Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:24 pm

The fenders need to come from an aero car, but can be an aero notchback, of course. If you don't find any in the next couple of months, I'll be taking some off of the various broken chassis in my parents' back yard, but that will be later this year.

Good attitude. A car is just a piece of metal.

Billybo455 · Post by **Billybo455** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:02 pm

there's an 86 gt in my local yard if you need anything.

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:14 am

local yard? you mean junkyard or front yard? I need a fender liner!!

MstangsBware · Post by **MstangsBware** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:28 am

Aaron wrote:We got all of the body parts off.

The front fender, door, and rear rocker panel are trash. Can these come off any Fiero, or do they have to be GT aero pieces? My aero ground affects are still good, will they just swap over?

It doesn't look too bad. Maaco is charging $213 to pull the A pillar, where the door hinges bolt to, back out.

If you are going to have to have an A-pillar pulled out then the damage to the car is worse than what you think. It can be fixed but will the car still perform like it should once you have it modded to the point where you are happy.

My L-67 88 T-Top Coupe was hit in the same area from the sounds of it. It pushed the area in where the 1/4 panel covers pretty good, destroyed the door so I decided it was best to part the car out.

I wouldnt say the car is a total loss but maybe not what you want to go with for a modded car that you want to perform its best.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:30 am

Good point. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:29 pm

I got some pics, just haven't uploaded them.

I have been spending the past hour or two tuning. What a pain in the ass. Make a run on the highway, pull off, read the AFR graph, change the fuel trims, upload to the ECU, repeat.

But I'm slowly getting there.

AkursedX · Post by **AkursedX** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 4:49 pm

Aaron wrote:I got some pics, just haven't uploaded them.

I have been spending the past hour or two tuning. What a pain in the ass. Make a run on the highway, pull off, read the AFR graph, change the fuel trims, upload to the ECU, repeat.

But I'm slowly getting there.

That's the world of tuning for you. I don't have my laptop here, but I'd say I have close to 100 scans saved and I have probably made changes to my tune on about 85% of them. But when you have your car dialed in for that day, it's a great feeling.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 4:59 pm

I don't know what it's problem is.

My changes aren't making much of a difference, but they are making a difference, which is good. I just went and did a 4th gear run though, and past 4500, it pegged the WB rich. But then around town, in gears 1-3, it was running great, never below 11:1. I'm going to do a few more runs, see if I can't get this figured out.

MstangsBware · Post by **MstangsBware** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 5:04 pm

God wrote:
Aaron wrote:I got some pics, just haven't uploaded them.

I have been spending the past hour or two tuning. What a pain in the ass. Make a run on the highway, pull off, read the AFR graph, change the fuel trims, upload to the ECU, repeat.

But I'm slowly getting there.
But when you have your car dialed in for that day, it's a great feeling.

That what really sucks is a dead on tune only last till the weather changes and its time to start all over again.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:07 pm

Aaron wrote:I don't know what it's problem is.

My changes aren't making much of a difference, but they are making a difference, which is good. I just went and did a 4th gear run though, and past 4500, it pegged the WB rich. But then around town, in gears 1-3, it was running great, never below 11:1. I'm going to do a few more runs, see if I can't get this figured out.

Not enough load on the motor not to mention the gears wind up too fast to get a good pull.

Which is why most tuning is done in 4th gear. YOu get a long enough pull to provide accurate data. Tune in 4th gear, and you will be fine for the other gears.

Tuning on the street is hard in 4th gear though. Speeds up to 120 mph aren't uncommon in that gear, and just not too many roads to do that on. Which is why I did a bit of tuning on the highway and at night with little traffic.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:11 pm

MstangsBware wrote:
God wrote:
Aaron wrote:I got some pics, just haven't uploaded them.

I have been spending the past hour or two tuning. What a pain in the ass. Make a run on the highway, pull off, read the AFR graph, change the fuel trims, upload to the ECU, repeat.

But I'm slowly getting there.
But when you have your car dialed in for that day, it's a great feeling.
That what really sucks is a dead on tune only last till the weather changes and its time to start all over again.

I would think that if your temperature compensation is dialed in correctly, then humidity should be the only thing that upsets your tune...

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:59 pm

I noticed we were having problems filling the intercooler system, and it overall wasn't as good as I'd like. One problem was that the fill point wasn't the lowest in the system...

So today I fixed it. I removed the A/C condenser, and all of the A/C lines. Most are small, like 3/8 or 1/2", so they went gone. But the large line running to the back of the car is already 3/4", so it stayed. I then bought a 10' long piece of 3/4" copper from Home Depot, this will be the other line running to the back of the car. I mounted and installed the heat exchanger, it is a radiator from a Kawasaki ZX6RR, and it has a fan. I wired the fan in parallel with the IC pump, so whenever I turn the pump on, the fan goes as well. Here is how my water flow goes:

Pump Outlet> Intecooler
Intercooler > Radiator
Radiator > Fill Point
Fill Point > Pump Inlet

This should work well, I'll have it finished by tomorrow or Tuesday.

Honest Don · Post by **Honest Don** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 1:42 pm

Aaron wrote: Here is how my water flow goes:

Pump Outlet> Intecooler
Intercooler > Radiator
Radiator > Fill Point
Fill Point > Pump Inlet

This should work well, I'll have it finished by tomorrow or Tuesday.

That sounds right. I don't think you want the fill point being the lowest part of the system though

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 2:05 pm

LOL thanks, I meant one problem was the fill point was not the highest point in the system, and it should be.

I'm finishing it up today, pics to come.

Jinxmutt · Post by **Jinxmutt** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:40 pm

Is that the general consensus as far as the order of components?

I put my pump between the IC and the Radiator in case it added any heat to the fluid. It became a decision or whether i wanted cool fluid running through the pump to help prolong the pump, or put the pump after the IC so that the fluid going into the IC was as cool as possible.

I ended up leaving the pump between ic and rad so that the fluid in the IC is fresh from the rad.

(My ice tank is between the rad/ic when its in the loop)

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:15 pm

I took the car down to the body shop today, to get the frame straightened. $213.

I made sure to put it in "valet mode" when I got it down there. I like how my valet mode is easy to set too. All I do is unplug, and cap, the boost reference line to my piggyback. The car will run perfect, until it starts trying to build boost. Then it goes pig rich, and won't build boost. I also wrote down the mileage, being as my speedo and odometer are now working again. 119,643.2.

This shop will have the lawsuit from hell if the car has anymore than .2 miles on it.