Getting car to warm up faster.

[cactus bastard]

What if I welded an enclosed pipe, maybe 3.5" D and 2" long, around my 3" downpipe, and had a water inlet and outlet to it. Plumb water lines out of the intake manifold, to the exhaust pipe, then to the heater core.

Um, are you serious here? What happens once the car's warmed up?
Actually, The concept itself isn't completely insane, just the specific thought of welding a water manifold directly to the exhaust components..
You could for example set up an additional heater core in the engine compartment and use re-plumbed exhaust gasses (via a cutout) to heat it.

[Aaron]

Um, are you serious here? What happens once the car's warmed up?
Actually, The concept itself isn't completely insane, just the specific thought of welding a water manifold directly to the exhaust components..
You could for example set up an additional heater core in the engine compartment and use re-plumbed exhaust gasses (via a cutout) to heat it.

Why not?

Once it is warm, the exhaust is still much hotter than the water. So the water flows through it, gets even warmer, then goes to the heater core. I guess if the water started to boil, then that could cause some problems...*brainstorms on ways to avoid that*

As long as it won't leak or corrode, I don't see any problems. Running the exhaust gasses through a heater core is the same basic idea, but gives much more surface area for the exhaust to transmit heat. I don't think it will need that much surface area personally, plus the heater core is large, and would impede exhaust flow.

[whipped]

Adding heat to the cooling system doesn't sound like a good idea. How about instead you remove capacity from the system? Install a PVC yard sign over the front of your radiator. At least then you can remove it without all this extra "water" hassle.

[jelly2m81]

Heres a rather simple suggestion, have you considered the possibility of your heatercore being partially plugged?

if your car is comming up to tempertaure properly, you should be getting sufficent heat from the heater.

I know when I drove fiero's in the winter, if you kept the heat blasting you would have to roll the window down when it was 15 below outside.

[Aaron]

Adding heat to the cooling system doesn't sound like a good idea. How about instead you remove capacity from the system? Install a PVC yard sign over the front of your radiator. At least then you can remove it without all this extra "water" hassle.

Why would I do this? You do know what thermostats are for, right? I could have the biggest motherfucking radiator in the world, with a 40 gallon cooling system, and the car would still warm up just the same. I'm trying to get the water to 195* faster. I'm quite sure I won't have a problem with overheating.

Heres a rather simple suggestion, have you considered the possibility of your heatercore being partially plugged?

if your car is comming up to tempertaure properly, you should be getting sufficent heat from the heater.

I know when I drove fiero's in the winter, if you kept the heat blasting you would have to roll the window down when it was 15 below outside.

The system worked great before the swap, and it even works good now. It's just not quite as warm as I think it should be. But I have also decreased flow to the core by almost 50%, which plausibly explains the low heater temps.

If my cooling system was setup like stock, yes. But the water line supplying the heater core flows maybe half as much as it did stock.

You didn't drive my Fiero, that has the heater core looped with the turbo cooling line, that's 3/8" diameter, and goes through small banjo fittings to the turbo.

[Aaron]

While at the gym, in between staring at hot girl jogging, I thought about ways to run water to the exhaust, but have it controllable. I could have valves in the water lines, only open them when the car is cold, however, water will sit in the lines when I close the valves, and it will boil and all that bad shit. I could do the exhaust cutout, however that's expensive, adds a more than negligible amount of weight, and requires some exotic exhaust work that I don't have room for.

Not sure, going to sleep on it a bit. Those of you who go out to a car when it's 5* outside know how I'm feeling, it sucks to wait 10 minutes driving until it's warm!

[Series8217]

To solve your heater core problem, why don't you just plumb it so that the turbo is on its own cooling loop? :scratch:

[Aaron]

That solves half of the problem, it still takes it 10 minutes to warm up.

Secondly, I don't have 3 loops from the LIM, only 2. One goes to the oil cooler (Though I guess I could do that from the block like factory), the other to the turbo.

The biggest problem now is the warmup time.

[p8ntman442]

Why dont you just plug your car into 120V and use a block heater? Have the thing set on a timer and you can have your coolant toasty before you even fire the engine in the AM.

[Aaron]

That's too easy.

[whipped]

Install an electric heater grid. Done.

[Forever-Fiero]

Install a remote start. Start the car 10 min. before you have to leave. And/or get seat warmers. :thumbleft:

[Aaron]

I have a few reasons I can't do that. First, no parking brake. Next, it's too loud for the neighbors, and 3rd, I don't like it idling cold like that. :la:

Seat warmers weigh too much.

[Nashco]

Seat warmers weigh too much.

Are you talking about electric heaters or passengers? If the latter, I agree, if the former...well...go poop before getting in the car and you've made a bigger difference.

Bryce

[whipped]

http://www.zuglet.com/ev/saturn/heater.html

I'll leave you to figure out the boost SMPS.

[lucky]

What if I welded an enclosed pipe, maybe 3.5" D and 2" long, around my 3" downpipe...

Um, are you serious here? What happens once the car's warmed up?
Actually, The concept itself isn't completely insane, just the specific thought of welding a water manifold directly to the exhaust components..

Not insane. Never seen an exhaust manifold on a boat? Same concept, different reason for executing it. As a heater booster you'd probably want to at least partially isolate it from the rest of your cooling system though, otherwise it'd be counter productive to engine cooling.

[Series8217]

What if I welded an enclosed pipe, maybe 3.5" D and 2" long, around my 3" downpipe...

Um, are you serious here? What happens once the car's warmed up?
Actually, The concept itself isn't completely insane, just the specific thought of welding a water manifold directly to the exhaust components..

Not insane. Never seen an exhaust manifold on a boat? Same concept, different reason for executing it. As a heater booster you'd probably want to at least partially isolate it from the rest of your cooling system though, otherwise it'd be counter productive to engine cooling.

Boats don't have closed cooling systems.

[cactus bastard]

What if I welded an enclosed pipe, maybe 3.5" D and 2" long, around my 3" downpipe...

Um, are you serious here? What happens once the car's warmed up?
Actually, The concept itself isn't completely insane, just the specific thought of welding a water manifold directly to the exhaust components..

Not insane. Never seen an exhaust manifold on a boat? Same concept, different reason for executing it. As a heater booster you'd probably want to at least partially isolate it from the rest of your cooling system though, otherwise it'd be counter productive to engine cooling.

Welding your exhaust permanently to the COOLING system of your car is still counter-productive.

And if you isolate it, it will boil.

It also does not relate to keeping the exhaust on a boat cool. It's the exact opposite as a matter of fact.

[Aaron]

I'm thinking of a way to permanently weld it, but isolate it, and be able to drain the area right around the exhaust so it won't boil. However, I don't want a complex series of valves. I'll think of something I like.

In other news, my heater core may not be working as well as it should. It started leaking the past couple days. I had thought I had smelled coolant for the past couple weeks, very lightly though, but now it has a very small leak. I'm thinking my crash may have jarred the core.

[Aaron]

I replaced the heater core today, turns out the bottom tube (Forgot if that is inlet or outlet), was completely cracked, and broken off from the core, presumably in my crash. But I got it all cleaned up, and the new core put in. It works great, and the heater is much warmer now (Normal temp). So I'm going to drive it for a while, and see how it works, and see if it's worth the effort and weight of trying to make it hotter.