Alright, I'm working on the cam replacement right now, and just noticed that the manual says to remove the "rear camshaft cover."
However, I see now that the cover is under the transmission. Do I really need to remove this cover? I had thought the camshaft simply pulled straight out the front of the engine, and the new one goes in the same way.
The last camshaft i did was that simple, and the book doesn't indicate why that cover should be removed at all, basically just says to remove it, then put it back on.
Also, the timing component set I received from the FieroStore, has a timing arrow on the large sprocket, but nothing on the small one. Is that normal?
Should the CompCams 260h kit be used with special springs or should the stock ones be fine?
The factory springs might work depending on the mileage on them, but you could see float in the upper rpms. I think max lift on stock springs is .420. Now I am not sure if that is where they bind, or if that is where they start to lose some of their effectiveness.
So if you put that cam in you might need new springs too.
You shouldn't have to pull off the rear cam cover. I see no reason why it would need to be removed.
Alright, I've ordered new performance springs and retainers just in case, I don't want to have to do this again.
Jazzman on Old Europe mentioned the spring Dampners as a possible interference issue, do you happen to know if they'll have to be trimmed down with this cam?
Here's my other concern so far:
I'm appear to be missing a small sliver of that flat metal piece, and apiece of the retainer spring. Motor sounded fine running besides the tick, do I need to drop the pan and make sure those pieces aren't in there?
I wouldn't pull the pan. The pump won't pick them up unles they are pretty small peices as there is a screen on the pump. Even so the oil filter will catch anything else.
If I was you I would just replace that lifter and call it a day. Or find an extra set of heads to clean up and install and just swap a new set of heads on.
Shaun41178(2) wrote:I wouldn't pull the pan. The pump won't pick them up unles they are pretty small peices as there is a screen on the pump. Even so the oil filter will catch anything else.
If I was you I would just replace that lifter and call it a day. Or find an extra set of heads to clean up and install and just swap a new set of heads on.
I was going to just do the lifter originally, but I've already got it out and mostly disassembled .
I'd be farther along now if dumbass me had realized sooner that the waterpump bolts were Torx heads.
Xanth wrote:Alright, I've ordered new performance springs and retainers just in case, I don't want to have to do this again.
Jazzman on Old Europe mentioned the spring Dampners as a possible interference issue, do you happen to know if they'll have to be trimmed down with this cam?
Don't use the old dampners with new springs. Replacements, if needed, will be included with the new springs(at least thats how its been with every cam swap I've ever done)
p8ntman442 wrote:A lift and a dirt floor? thats a new combo.
Bleeding edge technology :thumbleft:
Cam is in, new timing sprockets and chain are on, water pump is on.
And my springs arrived today from the FieroStore, true to form, its a loose pile of springs in a box. No Specs or anything.
For doing the springs, the plan was to use compressed air in the cylinders to keep the valves up. Is this a decent plan or is there a better method?
I've never been a fan of the compressed air. I run a pice of rope through the sparkplug hole and spin the crank till it won't go any further. I've never dropped a valve.
'88 Fiero GT- 3800 Turbo Best E.T. 11.36 Best MPH 121.50 (Sold and gone)
2021 Hyundai Veloster-N (SCCA Solo D-Street)
2004 Mazda RX-8 (SCCA Solo STX)
WNY SCCA-Region Auto-X Program Chair
Be prepared that this is going to suck and have a pen magnet ready for the keepers.
are they the fierostore "performance" springs?
I'll grab a magnet, and they are the FieroStore performance springs. I'm gonna give them a call, hopefully they have the info on hand. I really wish they didn't always just dump everything loose in a box.
Do I need to make any changse to install these? I'm wishing I had just bought a stock cam at this point.
nope, they should go right on. I'm using the same springs actually. they should've came with the spring-type dampers which is an improvement for sure. you can re-use the stock retainers, keepers, and seats
you're replacing the seals while you're in there right? well, you won't have a choice with the o-rings but the good felpro kit has the umbrella seals as well.
I got the Felpro valve seal set you suggested, and they worked out nicely. We used compressed air to do the valve springs and seals, with two of us doing the job it didn't take very long. In the process we did find that one of my exhaust vales isn't sealing great, but that is a project for much later, if ever.
Ended up doing 3/4 turns adjustment on the lifter pre-load, which gave us .045 of preload at the lifter. Cam kit specified .03 to .05 , so we mounted a gauge to the engine and measured the lash several times to verify.
Started up first try, and sounds great after the 30 minute break-in and timing adjustment. Still haven't gotten to drive it, the end of my right-rear brake hose sheared right off during install. This is apparantly a hard hose to get
