The new 88GT

[Emc209i]

Don't be knockin teh 130 hp beast.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Don't be knockin teh 130 hp beast.

Lolz, try 105 with my ported intake, test pipe, and CAI.

[CincinnatiFiero]

So the 2.hate is making some death noises. Oil is filled but I get this intermittent metal on metal rattle out of the valve train, it may be a rattle in the car, but it sounds top end to me. So lets start some 3500 and 3900 non-vvt talk. I was going to switch my car over to 7730, can I use my altered 2.8 harness on a 3500?

[lucky]

In the process of collecting pieces and reading up on this myself. I think modding the stock harness is the way to go; you'll need a plug for the cam sensor (or just leave the sensor in, but unconnected), knock sensor from a 7730 car, and I think I read somewhere that the 3X00 crank sensor won't jive with the 7730 (I don't recall if an earlier sensor fits, or if you need to build an adapter circuit).

[CincinnatiFiero]

Emptied my car and still getting a rattle, hopefully she will last me another month or two until I can have the L67 car to drive.

[CincinnatiFiero]

AGH SQUEAKS!

Not from the belt, but somewhere behind my head. Are there any common squeak spots in the car?

[CincinnatiFiero]

So I finally got my dad to come over with a crow bar to help me tighten the belt.

I have about ~1/2" left on the adjustment. However I cannot get the bottom bolt to loosen, I got a 1/2 turn with a lot of force and now it won't go either direction, I hosed it down in PB blaster, so I'll try later.

As for the e-brake adjustment, do I loosen the bolt in the front framerail? I just want these things to not drag, 21-22 mpg is not what this car should be getting.

[lucky]

AGH SQUEAKS!

Not from the belt, but somewhere behind my head. Are there any common squeak spots in the car?

Mine squeaks from the upper leading edge of the driver side quarter window.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Sounds like that is where I am getting my squeak too, right above my ear, KICK ASS!

Found my rattle at idle



Here is how far the ebrake is returning:
This one does not go back the whole way, but the rotor spins easy

This one returns the whole way, but the rotor drags a hair


My belt is chewed up, there are like 2 inch long sections where one row of ribbing is missing on the belt, its shot. So my buddy is going to try to get me a discount on a new belt. I can't get that bottom bolt to loosen though, any advice? Can I heat it? I have soaked it in penetrating oil. I do have good adjustment left thought

[AkursedX]

My belt is chewed up, there are like 2 inch long sections where one row of ribbing is missing on the belt, its shot. So my buddy is going to try to get me a discount on a new belt. I can't get that bottom bolt to loosen though, any advice? Can I heat it? I have soaked it in penetrating oil. I do have good adjustment left thought

Ask lowlux, he's a master with alternator stuff.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Except I'm being serious. I would actually like to fix this, you know, for real.

[The Dark Side of Will]

If you're VERY careful, you can heat it. Aluminum doesn't glow before it melts, so you won't get any warning of impeding melting of your alternator case.

Can you turn it at all? That mounting ear in the alternator is very easy to helicoil, should you end up breaking the bolt or taking the threads out.

[CincinnatiFiero]

I gotta get a belt first, if I am taking it apart, I am going to change the belt. Also need to track down a new exhaust. I'll weld in my test pipe this time around, no clamp in flex pipe. I would love to find a like $50 setup with a custom muffler. Does anyone make a cheap muffler setup for a stock FGT exhaust? I know spintech does, but put $130 into this car... lol, you're funny.

I have a cap and rotor coming for it with my brakes for the 87. I need a set of 90* 8mm boots for my accel wires. I cut them down from my L67 to use on the 88, but I had to cut the boots to get them apart, and ziptieing the boots wound up in a lot of arcing and my dumbass getting shocked. So anyone know where I can get 6 boots for the distributor side?

Advance sold me a PF47 for the car last time I did an oil change, I forgot about the PF52 at the time, this time I went to O'Reilly and they got me the PF52, not sure if this pic has been posted, but I like comparo shots of this kind of stuff so people can see.


The poor mans tuneup

Valvoline Max-Life 5w30 Semi-Synthetic High Mileage 5qts - $14.00
AC Delco PF52 - $3.49
Supertech Injector Cleaner - $1.97
O'Reilly Brand Oil Treatment - $1.89
The rest was for the Lexass.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Dumb question but when I ordered my cap and rotor I got the "-X" brass point cap, but I did not get the better rotor (clicked the wrong box, don't worry I am not $.73 stingy), should I have any issue running the two together?

[jelly2m81]

Dumb question but when I ordered my cap and rotor I got the "-X" brass point cap, but I did not get the better rotor (clicked the wrong box, don't worry I am not $.73 stingy), should I have any issue running the two together?

It will work fine. your cap has a carbon center electrode, it will wear out just as quick as a cheapie.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Okay cool, is there an online how to for this? I've never done a cap and rotor, I searched .nl to no avail and xanths site is down. Googled it and just found a bunch of people suggesting cap and rotor changes, but no how to.

[Fastback86]

Take the spark plug wires off and transfer them to the new cap in the right order. Unscrew the two screws on the cap and take it off. Toss it. Pop the rotor off, put the new one one. It just pulls straight off and pushes on. Put the new cap on, screw it down. End.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Wow that was the easiest thing ever, I am whiney haha. Set the new cap on the intake, moved each wire one at a time to the new cap, boom. Took 3 minutes, 2 of which was fighting the old rotor off of the rusty shaft. The rotor was all melted up and the inside of the cap had white build up all over the points. Both said DELCO, maybe they were the originals?





Not super stoked about the red/white/blue theme now, but the blue cap adds more color to a dull motor and it LOOKs like I work on my car now haha

[CincinnatiFiero]

Lets talk AC. My AC doesn't work. What do you guys think of those $36 walmart/autoparts store R134 retrofit kits, just a can of that "highmileage" R134, new hi and low R134 ports, and a manifold gauge. Or should I buy a nozzle and some freeze12? Can I buy the A/C o-rings in a kit somewhere?

[Xanth]

Probably want to avoid anything that may have any sort of stop-leak in it if you definitely want to get the system working, that stuff can ruin your shit.

I have used the simple can charge kit, the can with the gauge and nozzle, and it actually worked really well on my already retrofitted car.

The retrofit kits we sell, seem to just be new connectors so you can hook up the new bottles. I would expect there is more to it than that to do it properly.

We do also sell O-ring kits, however they are non-specific and just contain a bunch of various O-rings.