Real Fiero Tech

Atilla the Fun wrote:Yes, it should sound great, and your work speaks for itself. They do look a bit snug to the trans, but I'll let that thought go until I you've had a chance to drive the car and tell us how it works. I do know about the dogginess when not boosing a boosted engine, and you'll have great driveability, if you go no wilder on the cams than Cad's own 320-HP cams. In fact, you'll have better driveability than my torquey LSX/F40 will give.

Thanks, and that drivability is what we're looking for. Honestly, if it was my car, it'd have an aluminum LSX. But you can't beat the price we got this rebuilt N* for.

guru, none of those videos work anymore, all send you straight to ebaumsworld.

LS4s are going for $1400. You got a rebuilt N* for less than that? Did it include the entire cooling system, and the fuel rails and injectors, and ignition coils, and all sensors, and theTB?

Atilla the Fun wrote:LS4s are going for $1400. You got a rebuilt N* for less than that? Did it include the entire cooling system, and the fuel rails and injectors, and ignition coils, and all sensors, and theTB?

We paid $600, and it included everything you just listed. Literally ready to go.

I finished the last primary today. Came out good, though some of the welds aren't so smooth. I also test-fitted the motor, the only primary that hit was the one I did today, it hits the trunk. I did some clearancing with the hammer and it clears great, and you can't tell from looking in the trunk.

You going to polish those magnesium valve covers?

Our original plan was to polish them. My friend ran a wire brush over them aggressively, which put marks all over them, and those will be tough to get out. My plan though is to powder coat them with a flat, textured red, then have the intake done in flat, smooth black. Kind of a Corvette style. At any rate, no plastic covers allowed.

I finished the headers today, and they look fantastic. I also got the exhaust started. Going to run true duals, with dual Spintech mufflers. The mufflers will end up being where the factory tips go, so my mufflers will serve as my exhaust tips. Not sure how I'm going to make that look good, but I'll find a way. They go up for a polished ceramic coating this week.

So here is the impossible. Long tube, tuned equal length, 180* crossover headers on a Northstar 32v V8, all inside a Pontiac Fiero with the stock trunk. The two headers are in no way attached to each other, that's why it looks like the flanges are off. I've test fitted more than a few times, they work!

it warped as soon as you unbolted it all from the motor

Shaun41178(2) wrote:it warped as soon as you unbolted it all from the motor

You've got to be kidding me.

"The two headers are in no way attached to each other, that's why it looks like the flanges are off. I've test fitted more than a few times, they work!"

I do have a question for you all though. H pipe, or leave them independent?

independent.

how are you going to keep that thing cool with it wrapped in all that hot pipe. Aluminum blocks do not like heat. Shaun wants to know if some of those bends are "crushed pipe"

The Northstar loves heat and frequently runs its best at or above 200 degrees.

However, the higher engine bay temps are going to bleed through the firewall and overwhelm the A/C on long drives. Ask me how I know...

Whip up a "sheath" for them, the way Ferrari did for the dual wall stainless headers they put on 360's and 430's.

shaunsrightnut wrote:how are you going to keep that thing cool with it wrapped in all that hot pipe. Aluminum blocks do not like heat. Shaun wants to know if some of those bends are "crushed pipe"

With fucking coolant

And there isn't a crush bent pipe in the entire exhaust. Or intake, for that matter.

The Dark Side of Will wrote:The Northstar loves heat and frequently runs its best at or above 200 degrees.

However, the higher engine bay temps are going to bleed through the firewall and overwhelm the A/C on long drives. Ask me how I know...

Whip up a "sheath" for them, the way Ferrari did for the dual wall stainless headers they put on 360's and 430's.

I know all about bleeding through the firewall, my 3.4 car does that really badly (No A/C). The N* will have A/C though, so I don't anticipate it will be a problem.

My buddy wants to wrap them, but I don't. I think I'll end up wrapping the ones near the firewall and trunk, but not wrapping the ones you can see.

I had R134 converted A/C and with a full solar load on the cockpit + engine heat through the (uninsulated) firewall, it couldn't keep up. An R12 system *might* be able to keep up, but those are expensive these days...

A double firewall panel will take care of any firewall heat issues.

Hot engine bay / Firewall panel (aluminum or stainless) / Additional Insulation / Stock Firewall / Stock Insulation / Carpet / Driver staying cool!

Except that with a Northstar in the engine bay, there isn't room for credible insulation. I can't fit my thumb between the alternator and the firewall.

If you run true racing seats, and your legs aren't too long, you could double your firewall and insulation inside the car. And I suggest you set it up where you can try a connecting pipe of at least 2.5", between the collectors. It'll change the sound, true, and you may or may not like that, but it'll add a good bit of midrange torque, if you re-tune for it.

What the hell happened to the rest of this build?

Nothing really. My buddy got the car running and tuned relatively well, but lost interest. He picked up a 335i which of course makes a Fiero look bad in every way, so he put his time a d money into the BMW, and sold the Fiero. Not sure who picked it up, but I think it's in Texas.

Ever get dyno numbers?