88GT 3.4 DOHC turbo rebuild

[The Dark Side of Will]

Absolutely none. Except for a seat. The entire HVAC system is out, the only interior things I have are the gauge pod, steering wheel, seat, and boost/AFR gauges.

You do realize that you will only be able to drive this in perfect warm weather, right? The defroster serves purposes other than HVAC.

[Emc209i]

At least wires aren't wrapped around his axle.

[Aaron]

You do realize that you will only be able to drive this in perfect warm weather, right? The defroster serves purposes other than HVAC.

I do, I'm basically building it as a race car for the time being.

My long term goals are to ditch the project, find a low mile 88GT, spend 6-8k on it, and do a really nice swap with a 3.6 DOHC.

[Aaron]

Got it running, runs pretty poorly. It'll run and rev up fine, but the tune is way off. My wideband is reading 17:1 at idle, and it doesn't like to run for more than a few minutes. I still need to hook up my coolant temp sensor, alternator, speedometer wires, reverse light wires, and a few vacuum components, and an air filter, but other than that I think everything is connected. None of that seems critical, so I'm not sure why it's running funny, but we'll see if it cleans its act up with that stuff, and gets time to warm up. The O2 is heated, but they still don't start working instantly.

When i first built headers for my Z34, I hooked up everything I thought was critical and drove it around. It drove, and ran ok, but just wasn't right. Wasn't very smooth, and seemed to be lacking a lot of power. Once I cleaned everything up, and hooked everything up, it ran 100% better. Nothing left off was significant, so I'm thinking it was just the combination of little things.

[Shaun41178(2)]

you are an idiot if you don't think the coolant temp sensor let alone the alternator has anything to do with how a car runs. Not to mention vacuum components.

No wonder your dyno graph looked like shit.

[Aaron]

you are an idiot if you don't think the coolant temp sensor let alone the alternator has anything to do with how a car runs. Not to mention vacuum components.

No wonder your dyno graph looked like shit.

A battery charger was hooked up to the car, and running, while the car was, so the alternator has nothing to do with it (Theoretically). Also, there were no vacuum leaks, or any critical components not hooked up to the vacuum source. Just stuff like the Piggyback, which shouldn't be doing anything anyways, and the boost gauge.

I know your car is just the shit, and how on its first start it had a perfect 12:1 AFR, idled as smooth as a BMW V12, and revved like a Ferrari, but realistically, a first start is just that. It serves as little more than a motivational kickstart, and a place to start solving problems, instead of just throwing parts at it like I was. So now I can start solving the little issues it has, instead of just putting more parts on it. Not even I expected this car to start and run as good as it did when I first pulled it apart, that's being ignorant. I expected problems, and now that they are here, I can identify and solve them. It's part of the engine swap process. Not like you'd know.

[Shaun41178(2)]

you had a first start on the car over a year ago when you finished the swap. Moving everything over to a new car doesn't change anything.

Einstein also said that black holes can't exist either according to his physics. Theoretically anyways. hmmmmm. I love your logic.

[Aaron]

you had a first start on the car over a year ago when you finished the swap. Moving everything over to a new car doesn't change anything.

That's all I did? I didn't convert an auto to a manual? I didn't add power windows and door locks? I didn't change the entire, read bumper to bumper, wiring harness? I didn't delete the entire HVAC system? I didn't change the entire interior? I didn't change most engine gaskets, wrap the headers, change the clutch, and upgrade the slave cylinder? I didn't change the charge piping? I didn't change the shift cables? I didn't change the throttle wire routing?

You know very little about what I've done to this car.

[Atilla the Fun]

Most of that is irrelevant, but switching trans type is huge to tuning. That alone makes it a new first start. All new gaskets could but shouldn't. Wiring harness could but shouldn't. Put these 3 together, it certainly is a new first start.

[Aaron]

The engine has always been hooked to a 5-speed, so the tune should be fine, I changed the car to a 5-speed.

[Atilla the Fun]

oh. oops

[Aaron]

I hooked up the piggyback, and connected all of the vacuum lines and gave it a start.

PERFECTION.

Started right up, held a nice 1,000 idle, and ran good. A/Fs were right at 15, and everything sounded good. Let it warm up a bit, and gave it a few strong revs. The Garrett whistles as good as it ever did, and it loved to rev. I still need an alternator cable (Was running off the battery charger), bleed the brakes, and the I/C hooked up, but I'm ready for a drive already!

[Shaun41178(2)]

sweet.

theoretically though, with all the sensors hooked up and the vacuum hooked up now, it shouldn't be running that well. Theoretically anyways.

[Atilla the Fun]

We'll be expecting a kill story by Valentines day

[Aaron]

I don't street race, but I have a track bet with a friend who's building a Cobra Kit car. It's using a stock 5.0 with shorty headers and side pipes. I'll destroy it. But we've got $100 on it!

[Shaun41178(2)]

so will it be till june before the race happens?

[Aaron]

Probably, he just barely got the Cobra running, still has a lot of work left.

[Atilla the Fun]

I don't street race, but I have a track bet with a friend who's building a Cobra Kit car. It's using a stock 5.0 with shorty headers and side pipes. I'll destroy it. But we've got $100 on it!

Sounds like a Factory Five (or whoever bought them out) kit, but a stock 5.0, properly tuned but NO speed parts, is good for a solid 250 crank HP at sea level. Long tubes by themselves won't help peak HP much, even with a tune, but will get the torque number around 350. I know, you said shorties, but that's really dumb. He should sell those and go long. !.5" would be best for pure stock, but I doubt you'll find any that might fit the car. The above number was with 1.625" tubes anyway. And a kill story from a closed course is still a kill story.

[Atilla the Fun]

BTW, for $5 per port, I can get those E7TE heads of his to flow 195 cfm still using the stock valves. I have flowbench results in my files.

[Aaron]

He's not the type to want ported heads, all he wants, ever, for the car, is a 428 Cobra Jet, because that's the best engine ev3r. You should of seen the scowl from his older friends when I said, oh so quietly, "What about an LS1?"

Anyways, took my Fiero around the block a few times. Runs good, no complaints. It is overheating though, I'm not sure why. Going to pull out the T-stat and make sure it's burped well next week. I think it'll be pretty quick. Needs Synchromesh bad, I put just cheap Walmart gear oil in, and it wasn't shifting too well.

On a side note, my friend is absolutely positive his Cobra is going to walk all over my Fiero. He was telling me how fast it is, because he got in the throttle in second gear, and the tires spun. He was on a dirt road. He's in for a big surprise. I think I'll just bring the Jeep to race him, as that'll put the 5.slow in its place at half throttle, and double the curb weight.