Another 3.4TDC Turbo up and running

[coinage]

Took me long enough, but for the most part it is done. Needs tuned BAD, but normal driving is cool.

I was having a slight axle problem which resulted in the axle tri pod thing coming out of the coupling and putting a hole in the tranny, no good.

Anyway, trailered the car to my buddies house that has a lift last sunday,worked on it after work all week and buttoned everything up today and seems to running decent enough,just a stalling issue,but other wise is running rather well. Drove it about 20 miles today.

The basics,
94 motor/wiring, ported heads/intakes, ARP main studs,head studs, rod bolts, fully balanced bottom end, Quarter Master twin disk clutch, Garret 60-1 BB turbo,Tial 38mm,a/w IC.

[Atilla the Fun]

why a 60-1?

[Shaun41178(2)]

looks great. should make good power once fully tuned in. I am guesing you are using a factory computer with a chip?

My dohc turbo drives fine around town but needs WOT tuning. Even on boost it doesn't feel like its making any power.

[coinage]

why a 60-1?

I had it from my first motor I was going to build up (3400 block/iron heads) and still was decent enough for this project.
http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/gra ... duct_id=62

[coinage]

looks great. should make good power once fully tuned in. I am guesing you are using a factory computer with a chip?

My dohc turbo drives fine around town but needs WOT tuning. Even on boost it doesn't feel like its making any power.

Thanks, normal driving is great except that it has a stalling issue at the moment, stalls when you take it out of gear while cruising,like when coming to a stop...whether the clutch is in or not.

The more I drove it yesterday the better it got, I only went WOT a few times but the WB hovers around low 10s. Its pretty ballsy in its current state, my buddy with a 500whp cobra was impressed. Car sounds amazing too (no muffler/cat,just a 3" DP).

[Shaun41178(2)]

how does that clutch setup feel?

[coinage]

Pedel is tight and heavy... chatters like a mofo, but overall feels good. Right now its like a leg workout for me, Im used to driving a 5speed A4, I think my throttle cable might be heavier than the clutch on that ,haha.

[Aaron]

What year computer are you using? If it's a 91-93, you can hook up the Fiero clutch switch, and that will fix the stalling. If you're running a 94-97, then you'll need to find someway else. I had Darth reprogram my 95 chip for the Fiero and the 42# injectors, and he I guess encoded his own 94-95 idle software, and mine never stalls.

[coinage]

It's a 94 ECM... Not sure if I ever told darth that I'll be using 96 intakes, would that make a big difference in idle quality?

[Aaron]

I doubt it. What size injectors do you have? Does Darth know you have larger injectors?

[coinage]

50lb/hr

yeah he knows about them

[Aaron]

They might be too big for the 3.4 computer to effectively control, but mine are 42.5 and do fine. My last guess would be to adjust the idle screw a little, hold the throttle barely open, just until it starts to raise your idle RPM.

[coinage]

I dont think they are too big, other than cold idle (probably related to the ring gaps being opened up a little), idle is rock solid at ~900.

edit to say that my slave cylinder took a dump ...way too hot. I need to wrap the crossover and make a heat shield to cove the slave. Thank god the clutch fork didn't snap

[Shaun41178(2)]

use a rebuild kit for the 89 mr2 if you have the 13/16 slave which I think you do since you have the 4 spd. it has a double seal on it as opposed to the single on the fiero unit.

I also wrapped my slave in heat wrap, as well as wrapped my crossover. no problems since.

[coinage]

Got the slave apart,the seal didnt look to bad.. it may have blew out, brown shit on the piston part in front of the seal so maybe.

Measured the bore and got a little less than 21mm or around 13/16th.

Im using the muncie 3.65 4 speed so Im guessing the muncie uses a bigger bore.

[Shaun41178(2)]

no you have the right slave. if you are going to rebuild it get the 89 mr2 slave rebuild kit. its cheaper then the fiero and it fits and has double seals. its like $9

also take some 600 grit sandpaper to the inside of the slave bore to clean out any gunk or ridges that could tear the new seal upon installation. you don't have to hog it out, just a couple passes and wash it out with brake clean untill it runs clean and the bore looks clean

[Atilla the Fun]

that's good info. new to me, but seems worth knowing. so I appreciate you guys sharing it.

[coinage]

I must be dyslexic or something, I could have sworn your post said 11/16.

[coinage]

nevermind, I think the clutch fork finger/hook things snapped. Out comes the motor again...

[coinage]

Going to be switching to a hydraulic throw out bearing verses the usual slave and fork setup.

http://racingclutches.com/product.phtml?p=55&cat_key=89