Starting a 2.0L w/ pics

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

does the trans look the right distance from the forward crossmember of the cradle?

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

Does that gap look about right? (Bewteen the sidepan and the side of the cradle)

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

[CincinnatiFiero]

I like the hinges removed, really opens it up in there. Post a lot of pics of your hood pin idea.

[Atilla the Fun]

I was making good progress swapping in Aaron's shifter, although I was upset at how much stuff had to be removed, but now I'm stopped and stumped. I have to go searching for pics, I don't know which way to route the new shift cable rom the shifter to the trans. And worse, being a stick car, I have 2 holes. So, I'm going searching to find out if it goes left or right, high or low.

[Atilla the Fun]

Looks like it should go high on the driver's side.

[AkursedX]

Where do you plan on attaching your hood pins to?

[Atilla the Fun]

The hood pins are on hold until tomorrow. (Saturday) I couldn't find any way to attach the bracket, so I rerouted the shift cable over the engine, and down through the intake manifold, and re-use the Cavalier bracket. I may need to use the arm that Aaron sent, but not the cable bracket. I discovered I'm going to have a problem with the throttle cable. Today I have a chimney to finish installing, including making some mounting / support brackets. Then some sheetrock work.

[fieroguru]

Ove the winter I am planning on removing the hinge boxes as well but keeping the hinges. Just take the existing lower part of the hinge that bolts to the hinge box, make it shorter and rotate it back up under the rear glass frame/tube. I will probably add a formed piece of 1/8" steel (maybe 6"x6")to wrap from the bottom side of the window tube and down about 3-4" on the firewall to help spread the load. This will eliminate the hinge boxes and retain a hinged decklid.

Jefrysuko gave me the idea at the 25th.

[Atilla the Fun]

If you do that, how far will the lid be able to open? Certainly not as far as stock, not by half. Now that I've made some progress on the pins (A new thread in tech for the 2 of you who asked for details) I moved on, and got the power steering pump back on the engine, so I could get enough belt wrap on the water pump pulley.

[Atilla the Fun]

There's stuff I could be doing to this Fiero, but I'm stopping until I can get anyone to tell me the secret of popping the Muncie axles out of the stubs. I've even posted a query on Old Europe.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Stubs? You mean the hub end? There is a snap ring around the bottom buried in grease.

[Atilla the Fun]

After much more grease removal than before, which I only tried because of Cincinnati, it turns out that there was a snap ring. The trouble is, it's only visible for maybe 1/6 th of the way around. That's insane. Thanks Cincinnati, now I'll go try the Cavalier axles again, maybe I can use them after all.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Manual axles will be thicker than the auto axles you can't put an auto shaft in a manual outer. The out is in ball bearings, move it around and use some brake clean to see if you can see more of the snap ring. They are a bitch an a half to take apart, I had to get a friend to help when I made my 3800 axles.

[Atilla the Fun]

Oh, I got them apart fairly easily once I did find the first snap ring. But If I can use the Cavalier stubs in the Fiero uprights, I'm still in business.