Real Fiero Tech

While I've been hunting an SBC to temporarily power this car, it seems a '69 Cadillac Eldorado may have just fallen into my hands.
This would be a swap from hell in most of the negative ways, but I'm seriously researching it.
It should be a 472 with a TH425, and I have an '84 WS6 T/A with 3.23:1 posi, probably worn out.
This is not a recipe for tolerable gas mileage. But the scrap value on the rest of the Cad should cover a 200-4R.
I can't say I'm excited, but I surely am very intrigued.
The main thing is the exhaust manifolds. I need them to fit, because Hooker's BBC-swap headers are not in the budget.
I do have the stuff to install a 200-4R into this car. I did it once before, with an '88 Camaro, then saved all the stuff.
I'm not in favor of the 10.5:1, even at 4500' elev. But maybe it's had a head swap for better compression, and maybe it got hardened exhaust seats along with. Maybe it's had an HEI conversion, too.
A '69 472 was rated at 375 gross HP at 4400, with 525 gross TQ at 3000. The Net rating for '72-'73 was 220 at 4400, with 365 at 2400. '74 was 205 at 4400, 380 at 2400.
The seller claims the old boat will move under it's own power.
Edelbrock makes an intake manifold, I'm awesome at porting heads, and I think COMP has cams. Their website is next.

My dad has a 500 in his '90 Suburban with 4L80E and LT1 electronics controlling the EFI.

If the caddy isn't a scam, this is a summer experiment.
I found a couple of people who have done this swap, 2 different ways of mounting, and one showed fitting cad exhaust manifolds.
Last night I found the cad on craigslist, and sent a response. This morning she had replied. It had a phone number that isn't getting answered, and a link to a vid. I clicked on the link, it re-directed to a new flash player. I installed that, re-started, then tried the link again. Same result as before.
I'll call the number twice more, early this afternoon, then mid-evening. If still nothing, then it's back to putting a non-GM 5-speed manual into this car, starting by adding a clutch pedal from an '86 Camaro.
I found a couple of interesting cams, the Edelbrock intake is pricey and 3" taller, I found all the different heads, including what casting number is what years and what cc.
I do have resources to go get a SBC 350 tomorrow if the cad is a scam. And if I find a 454 instead, well, it'll be difficult to resist. I won't even try to resist if I do score a Vortec 7400. Or better yet, an LQ4. But an LM7 I'll probably pass by.

Well, she didn't answer my second call.
Part of me is glad, since all I'd end up with is the output of an L98, from way more cubes. I doubt I could get past 20 mpg.
And the low-compression 454 isn't really appealing, either.
I'd like to find a pair of 5.3 or 4.8 heads.
I'm fairly certain I can get an '87-up 350, and top it with #416 heads. Not great, but can do 300 HP with a sensible cam. I hope that's enough to get me up to 60 mph
CP has a deal on a hydraulic roller 210 / 215 - 110, 0.462 / 0.470" cam.

I do believe the bitch is playing stupid mind games. I sent a text, did some work, then found an e-mail, with another link for her vid of the car. But no street address, and no other phone number. Just a claim that she has the title, and wants the car gone before she returns to Oregon on Friday night.
I tried the new link, it got me yet another free player, which I installed. even after that, still no vid, which I didn't want anyway. So I typed a reply saying so. If she wants it gone, stop with the unnecessary complications, put the ignition key and the title in the glovebox, leave the driver's door unlocked, and text me a street address. Because otherwise I'm not taking it.
What a skank.
Hell, I woulda agreed to half the scrap value, but not now. Way too much stress and BS.

Atilla the Fun wrote:I do believe the bitch is playing stupid mind games.

I think it's just you.

You've always disrespected me and attacked me for no reason, so you can step.

Cry me a river. Put an LSx in it and call it a day.

Well, still no address. Guess I was premature with starting this thread.
A 454 at 4.32" bore only makes a 469, while 4.35" bore makes a 476, so no 472 for me.
But now I can have that third pedal!

F the Caddy, I brought home a 350.

The links continually redirected to sites asking you to download new video player software? Me thinks you've been had. Hope you're running anti-virus software.

Today I tore into my 350. The damper is still useable, the single-roller timing chain wasn't bad, it has a windage tray, it has PM rods, it has the provisions for roller lifters, and it is a 4-bolt.
No cross-hatch remaining in the cylinders, the rod bearings need replaced, an ever-so-slight ring ridge, cast dished pistons.
Tomorrow I'll pull the crankshaft.
I have a set of genuine L82 pistons, I'm debating using them. I also have a set of L2256F-20 I could use.
But those options require a balance job, a 3.73:1 gear and a 2400-stall converter.
If I keep the dished pistons, I can use a stock converter, keep the 3.23:1 axle, run 85 octane, and expect 26 mpg at 65 mph.

I got the ruined front seats out, then removed the tracks. Both seats then went into the trash. Now to find an undamaged pair of '93-'95 Camaro seats.

It's a shame I'm not doing a big block, I just found proof that 18x10.5 wheels will fit all 4 corners. With 295/35R18 tires. Not cheap, but lots of tread width to manage lots of weight and torque. Continental lists 11.5" of tread width for their Extreme Contact DWS. Maybe that's bald, but 11" up front, must look aggressive!
But I have adequate tires to get it rolling around until it runs under it's own power.

I've been reading up on the Guldstrand Camaro from '82, and I'm back to wanting those Hotchkis 1"-drop, 600-pound-per-inch front springs.
I have to replace the right front balljoint, and the right front spindle. Plus I have to replace the struts and the control arm bushings. Those will be poly, because I loved them in my '91 Camaro.

A stroke of bad luck is forcing me to sell this car. I don't know if what I'm doing is going to result in more enthuasiasm for, or loyalty to, my Fiero, but it seems to technically qualify as forced committment to it.

I've bought a cam for my 350: a reground LT1 hydraulic roller cam, evidenced by the lack of a fuel pump lobe, and the 0.452 / 0.461" lift. But now the other specs are 214/220-112, which should do well for mileage and driveability with a stock torque convertered 700R-4, a 3.23:1 axle, and 235/60R15 tires.
I never stop wanting 285/40R18s on 10.5" wheels, but these 15x7.5" wheels just look so right, somehow.
I have the Vortec heads and intake, but I'm porting a pair of #416 heads to try first, as a baseline before swapping.
Just gotta do cam bearings, then I'll start assembling this mild 350.

Tomorrow the engine bay will be emptied once again. I have the '79 C-20 ready. Got the steering column swapped, plus the hydroboost. I'm hoping to sell the SM465, but if not, scrap money beats no money. Likewise for the little old radiator. And I determined it has 4.10:1 when I gave it a fresh fill of 85W140. 3.5 quarts it took. And a $4 gasket ( Fel-Pro of course ) It needs a new pinion seal also, but It isn't getting it this year.
The perfectly good LT235/85R16E rear tires on steel 6" wheels will become the fronts, which are temporarily P225/60R16s. That rear axle is good past 7000#, so a new pair of aluminum 16x8s with retread LT265/75R16Es will get me safe to 6830#
The fifth wheel stuff in the bed isn't really replaceable without just replacing the whole rusty bed, which, surprisingly, is the only thing it's attached to. Plus they added a gooseneck ball on a 3/8" steel plate, in the bed! And a c-channel under the bed, but none of it is bolted or welded to the frame! Further, they added the ball just BEHIND the axle centerline!Well, that makes for easier backing, especially for newbs.
I expect to start by bolting the plate to the frame, just for moving empty trailers around. Then add a 1" steel plate for a second ball in the correct location. A new, higher-rated ball. That plate, under the bed, will be bolted and welded directly to the top of the frame rails.
They also had no provisions for safety chains.
At the rear, they had 2 rusty balls bolted to the bumper step, which was half full of concrete, 2/3 hiding the expired license plate. I chipped the concrete out, then removed both balls. They had the 2.31" ball on the left. It had bent the bumper down at the rear from pulling wrong. And they enlarged that hole rearward.
( FYI, there are 3 sizes of ball shanks. Bumpers come drilled for the small shanks. Goosenecks use large shanks, and class 5 receivers use medium )
They had a 2" ball in the center hole.
The correct way is to put the 2" ball on the left, and enlarge the center hole forward, to the medium size, for a 2.31" ball. 1.87" balls are for cars like my Trans Am. Which I've done. Anyway,...
So, I can still put a 5000# 2.31" ball in my center hole ( bumper is rated to 4500# ) and a 3500# 2" ball on the right.
But they have no wiring, at all, at the bumper! I have the stuff to remedy that.
The brake controller in the truck seems to be from the early '70s, so I'll have to swap that. Probably a new Tekonsha Voyager. I have a Tekonsha Envoy, but it's not proportional, so I don't use it. I just keep it as an emergency backup.

The C-20 is progressing nicely, considering the weather. Engine is in ( but not all connected ) same for trans. Hybrid driveshaft works great! The gooseneck plate is 12", so I drilled 1/2" holes every 2", that'll be a total of 10 grade-8 bolts attaching it to the frame.
I realized I can build my own class-5 receiver platform cheaper than buying the Reese, so I will. Just undecided about 2" or 2.5". There are reducer sleeves, but still less flexibility and more cost, for what is admittedly an old truck nearing the end of it's useful service life. and I feel certain that the 6.2 can't tow enough to need 2.5"-strength anyway. Not even in first gear with a 4.56:1 rear gear swap. But selling copies: Noone else makes 2.5" for these older trucks, which were still built through 1990. Would you buy a 2.5" new for half the cost of a Reese 2"?
I would.

Digital cameras cost like 2 dollars. Or you can steal one.