Real Fiero Tech

So they are getting 12v now right?

Of course they are. *I* fixed it this time.
I drove it back to NoVA last night.

No heat and no blower, but those are different problems.

Just checking you never said they did haha.

My E34 is having similar issues right now. The heater core is leaking, and the blower motor/fan is squealing an awful squeal. The heater core is a real pain in the butt too.

My friend did his in 3 hours. Don't believe the forum hype, people just like to bitch.


I did a 22 hour in Mitchels, whole weekend according to forums Mercedes evaporator core in just under 7 hours.

I did the heater core in my E34. As I recall, it was a couple of hours disassembly and a couple of hours reassembly. In between was a couple of weeks in which I ordered parts, cleaned the coke that some previous owner had spilled off the interior components, borrowed a friend's carpet cleaner to get the same coke out of the carpet under the console, etc. At the time I had no idea how an E34 interior was put together, so I could do it more quickly now.

The most exotic tool you'll need is the weird little 5 sided allen wrench that BMW uses to remove the radio, if indeed you still have the stock radio. Once the radio's out, all the other center stack components pretty much pop out with your fingers. The entire center console comes out in about 3 minutes once you pop the shift knob off the shifter (which takes about 150 lbs of force).

Have you replaced you cabin air filter yet?

I've had the dash apart down to the core several times, and I've swapped a dash/console, and I fixed the PO's radio install so none of this is new to me. It's still a pain to do though. I don't believe my car has a cabin air filter, though I haven't checked. I believe they didn't start those until late 91 (Which this car is a 91). I know my 90 didn't have one.

I'd also like to fix a few of the other HVAC problems with the car, but I'm not sure how much luck I'll have (They aren't easily diagnosed issues), and I want to keep it cheap (!)

From: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpos ... tcount=232

MonkeyMadness wrote:


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From: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthr ... ost3967156

MonkeyMadness wrote:


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These photos show better than any others I've come across what the relationship between the back of the cylinder head and the heater tubes is. The S62 does not have the coolant crossover manifold from which his heater lines originate, so it will be able to sit back much closer to the firewall than an M60 or M62. It looks like the heater tubes will *just* clear the rear corner of the left cylinder head.

Before I drove the car up to NoVA from my dad's place, I looked through the fuse box and found a 15A fuse blown. Without looking deeper I replaced it with another 15A fuse.

In troubleshooting the blower/heat problem, I found via the Bentley that the blower is powered from fuse 20 which should be 30A. I looked and behold fuse 20 was the 15A fuse I had replaced. I found it to be blown again and dropped a 30A into that slot. I tried the blower again and the 30 blew within a second or so of selecting high blower speed.
I pulled the blower cover in the engine bay, disconnected the motor, replaced the fuse and turned the switch on. I had 12V at the supply wire and the fuse didn't blow... Great, my blower motor is shorted out.

Since fuse 20 also supplies the heater valve, that explains why I didn't have heat.

BMA shows the blower motor at just over $200 and the resistor pack at ~$30. Feh.

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Before I drove the car up to NoVA from my dad's place, I looked through the fuse box and found a 15A fuse blown. Without looking deeper I replaced it with another 15A fuse.

A true Fiero owner would've replaced it with another 15A fuse, and when that blew, replaced it with a 30A without any research.

Aaron wrote:

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Before I drove the car up to NoVA from my dad's place, I looked through the fuse box and found a 15A fuse blown. Without looking deeper I replaced it with another 15A fuse.

A true Fiero owner would've replaced it with another 15A fuse, and when that blew, replaced it with a 30A without any research.

That's the Rcheee way.

New blower is in, but couldn't test it because the ancient battery was flat... picking up a new battery tomorrow.

Blower works, but still no heat... hmm...

Also need to ring out the wires between the temp sensors on the injector sub-harness and the DME temp sensor input to be sure I have the right ones. It runs like crap when it's cold, and the temp sensor is a common culprit.

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Blower works, but still no heat... hmm...

Also need to ring out the wires between the temp sensors on the injector sub-harness and the DME temp sensor input to be sure I have the right ones. It runs like crap when it's cold, and the temp sensor is a common culprit.

If it's anything like my E34, make sure your cooling system is bled properly. I've never, ever bled a cooling system. Just started the car with the cap off, added water as needed, and then added to the reservoir. Until I got the E34. Radiator showed full, coolant temp warned up, no heat. Upon properly bleeding it per the manual, everything was as before except now there was heat.

The temp sensor is also common on the E34, so no surprise there. But you should properly replace every sensor and the ECU, you can't trust fuel injection it always breaks. Just ask V8Archie's customers.

Viscous coupling LSD trigger wheels, cut down on left and stock on right:



3.64 pinion in 188mm diff





Trash behind the blower motor cover:



210mm diffs: E23 2.93 LSD on left and E34 2.81 open on right



RIng gear flange on 2.81 lines up with bolt holes for attaching the cover



RIng gear flange on 2.93 *ALSO* lines up with bolt holes for attaching the cover



Ginormous pinion in the 2.81 diff



E32/E34 (smaller) and E23 (larger) VSS trigger wheels for 210mm diffs.



I had to swap the smaller E32/E34 VSS trigger wheel into the E23 diff, but once that was done I was able to bolt up the E32/E34 rear cover and the E36 M3 CSL diff mount bracket. I now have the exterior of Bad Idea's ultimate rear diff complete. I'll need to snag either a 210mm 3.64 gearset OR an entire 3.64 diff from a 7/1990 or later E32 750iL in order to completely complete it.

I was looking at the relationship of the flange to the bolt holes because I just found out that *ALL* 210mm diffs use the same carrier... all ratios from 2.65 to 3.91 (and the 4.10 and 4.27 aftermarket gearsets). This means that I can snag a set of 3.64 gears and they will work with my 2.93 carrier.
I also found out that the manual transmission E31 850i's had 210mm diffs with 2.65 gears. The E31's, E32's and E34's use the same diff case, so I could use an E31 2.65 diff and swap just swap to the E32/E34 rear cover for my V12 E34 project... and I don't have to buy a diff from Europe. Sweeet!
It would be nice to have that diff as an LSD. Those are surprisingly rare in the E31's. This may drive me to buy the entire 3.64 E32 diff in order to have an additional LSD for the 2.65 diff.

Shots of the 188mm E30 case with E36 rear cover and the 210mm E23 case with E32/E34 cover and E36 bracket:









As far as mounts and driveshaft go, these two are bolt-in swaps.

The 188mm has the viscous LSD, which limits it to the 86mm CV joints, while the 210mm has output flanges for 94mm CV joints and can accept the later flanges for 102mm joints.
When the mounts line up, the 210mm positions the output flange centerline slightly rearward of where it is with the 188mm unit. However, this is not a significant distance and will not be a problem for CV joints to compensate.

Stacks for Weber IDF's apparently work on S62's... direct bolt-on. Good job, BMW, using an established "standard" no matter how unofficial or irrelevant to the engine's operation. Certainly makes things easier for hotrodders.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... 1481237582

Based on a test fit that a Swedish guy did of the 24V engine into the AWD E30 body, it looks like there just isn't enough room between the firewall and E30 AWD crossmember to fit a 24V engine with either the E34 525iX oil pan or E53 X5 3.0i oil pan.

So I'm going to set up to build 24V swap crossmembers for E30 AWD cars. Th major feature is that they'll move the rack forward 1-1.5", which will allow the engine to move forward so that it doesn't interfere with the firewall.

This will also potentially help my 32V swap. The major fitment issue that concerned me was space from the brake booster mounting location on the firewall to the crossmember. If I have a crossmember that I know will allow the engine to fit, then that's a good backup plan if it doesn't fit.

The crossmember will also be designed to allow use of common mount arms, like the E34 24V and 32V units.

Replacement BMW ball joints are available:

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showpo ... count=5444

cheades;1030240 wrote:Actually for the e30/e36 (possibly e46 but I haven't done one of those) you can press out the old ball joints and put new ones in for about $80 total in parts. Just use the ones for the e30 in the e36 as they fit fine.

Parts:

-- 2x 31121126254 outer ball joints. Meyle or Lemfoerder
-- 2x 31121126253 inner ball joints. Meyle or Lemfoerder

TeamDFL;1030248 wrote:I'm pretty sure E30/E36 outer ball joint fits E46 non-M and non-Xi control arms since the popular aftermarket "HD" version allegedly fits E36 and E46. I don't know about the inner ball joint.

The next time I have E46 control arms out of a car, I'll try the E36 inner and outer ball joints. The hard part is finding the Lemforder parts since most parts pushers give you Febi or Meyle.

Also: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=402063

Did not know.

So the Swedish guy found out that pushing the engine forward via a custom crossmember will push the inner CV joints into the stock ball joints.
This means moving the ball joints forward as well, and custom control arms. Interesting. At least I can build the custom arms to take standard RWD BMW ball joints.

iX ball joints are apparently available individually as well.

If I'm doing a custom crossmember AND custom control arms, then I can use something more serviceable than the BMW ball joints for the inner.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway- ... 38296.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Upp ... ,2126.html