My NEW fiero turbo setup

[The Dark Side of Will]

You just mean getting up to 65-70 psi in order to have 45 on top of boost?

[Shaun41178(2)]

Right. The plan is to run 50-55 base to get the injectors to flow a little more. 10-14 lbs of boost will then put over 60 psi of fuel pressure. I am going to redo it all since its apart

[The Dark Side of Will]

You running out of injector?
I would have guessed you'd run this beast over 20 psi.

Good to see it run, BTW.

[Shaun41178(2)]

sorry Will, forgot about your post until I was looking for some old pics today to send to Levi. I am not running it out of injector yet but I haven't cranked the boost up yet. 36lb injectors right now, with a 3.5 psi wastegate spring. Id love it if e85 came here. Id step up to 60's then.

20 psi won't be happening. I think 400 whp is possible on about 8 psi as is. Most likely 14 is the most I will run if the clutch can hold. That might put me close to my goal of 500 whp.

[ericjon262]

any progress on your car? I'd be interested to see a track time or dyno number.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Most likely 14 is the most I will run if the clutch can hold.

Tilton can solve that

I can make a couple extra flywheels when I switch my car over to a Tilton unit.

[ericjon262]

any updates to this?

[caffeine]

If you need a clutch that holds, get a clutchnet stage 4. I have one in my Firebird, it holds 14 psi without any sign of slipping, takes all the abuse and clutch dumps you want to do. Plus my Firebird probably weighs 1-300 lbs more than a turbo Fiero. The clutch I bought uses a 9 1/8" disc which is the same diameter as a stock Fiero disc. It cost about $400 + shipping.

[Shaun41178(2)]

I am currently running a spec 5. Justinbart on the other forum with his turbo 3800 stated he was having issues with his spec 5 when getting the boost up over 20 psi which I am guessing is in the 500 whp range.

Before my spec 5 I was running a McLeod disk and pp from WCF which is the larger diameter disk and it started having issues on my old 3.4 setup once it got to around 500 tq at the crank. I am sort of thinking that was more to blame on the instant tq my nitrous gave me and overwhelmed the clutch. I guess we will soon see.

And no new updates on the car Eric.

[ericjon262]

And no new updates on the car Eric.

Bummer, I'd like to see this car make a pass pretty bad...

[caffeine]

With my clutch I've launched at 9 psi dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm (2-stepping). With slicks on in the right conditions it just grabs; no clutch slippage and no wheelspin. The clutchnet stage 4 is rated on their website for 680 ft lbs. It does include a pressure plate with increased clamping force and definitely has a heavier pedal than my Fiero. The clutch material is IIRC semi-metallic and it's a 6-puck. Perhaps one of the reasons the clutchnet clutches are a bit cheaper is they don't include TOBs or pilot bushings.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Do you have a build thread for your Firebird? I'm curious about how you hooked up the T56 to the 3500.

[caffeine]

Build thread is on 60degreeV6 somewhere. To give you the jist of how I did it, I started with an LT1 T56, bought an SFI McLeod steel bellhousing, drilled the V6 bellhousing pattern into the SFI backing plate, and slightly notched it for the driver's side starter. The bellhousing then bolts onto the backing plate with around 15-25 bolts and nuts plus two bolts go through both the backing plate AND the bellhousing into the engine block. That covers bolting it up.

For the clutch setup I used a clutchnet stage 4 ordered for a 91 Firebird 3.1 (9 1/8" diameter) with a hub splined for a 94 Firebird. I opted for the 9 1/8" vs. the stock 94 Firebird 3.4 (9 7/8") for less rotating mass and also the clutch was quite a bit cheaper for some reason. I used a flywheel for an F-body (friction surface is offset about an inch from the crank IIRC) 88-95, and to keep the driver's side starter I made a shim out of 9/16" steel since the RWD flywheel has a larger diameter ring gear. I had to use a thin flywheel shim to make the flywheel clear the SFI backing plate.

Because the LT1 T56 normally uses a pull-style clutch I bought a HTOB to convert it to push-style. The last thing I had to do was have a custom length pilot bushing made. I had the shop copy the dimensions of a 94 Firebird 3.4 pilot bushing but make it longer because the LT1 T56 has such a short input shaft. That's the only purely custom part in the conversion. To mate up the HTOB line (-4an female fitting) to the stock T56 hydraulics I cut the stock braided line with a hack saw and installed a Russel -4 powerflex hose end on it. To get the correct HTOB-pressure plate clearance I also had to make a 1/4" trans-bellhousing shim but that wasn't a big deal.

I think that covers pretty much everything.

[Aaron]

I'd love to see pics of the turbo setup.

[ericjon262]

Do you have a build thread for your Firebird? I'm curious about how you hooked up the T56 to the 3500.

found it.

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... 3500-Build

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... 6-to-60*V6

[ericjon262]

Shaun, do you have any pictures of just your intake that you'd mind sharing?

[Shaun41178(2)]

Here are a couple more. It didnt really look like this when I got it so I had to modify it with injector bungs and vacuum ports for efi use as it was designed for mechanical fuel injection

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V__5C45 (Medium).jpg (53.79 KiB) Viewed 5217 times

[Shaun41178(2)]

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WP_000176.1.jpg (171.61 KiB) Viewed 5216 times

[ericjon262]

Thanks!

[crzyone]

Looks badass. Looking forward to some numbers on this beast!