Junkyard F23 transmission and engine advice.

[Emc209i]

$15 when I last bought it, install it, problem solved.

I was trying to tell people that the adapter would work on the F40 also. Nobody would listen to me. Now I see pictures of adapters that are pieced together with ugly looking solder joints. I mean, its cool to have alternatives, and that hose would work and actually is long enough to fish into the quarter panel area if you were making a new hydraulic line. But it doesn't look as clean as the hard adapter, and its going to fail eventually.

[jelly2m81]

Ya 15 is cheaper than 32, he should have some prices up on his site, I take it one would need to contact him, for pricing and ordering?

[Emc209i]

Sure.

[ericjon262]

Just remember that that hose costs twice what Thelin charges for his line adapter, and the hose also requires another adapter on the end of it to go from 10mm to 12mm. Thelin's adapter will not only be more reliable, but also have fewer parts to fail. And it costs half as much. Food for thought.

fair enough, I never priced thelins adapter, I'm using a custom adapter. just trying to help show what's available out there.

[ericjon262]

also found this somewhere. may have been on the other forum.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f ... 35&t=50735

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Ecotec- ... 4C701.aspx

[fieroguru]

$15 when I last bought it, install it, problem solved.

I was trying to tell people that the adapter would work on the F40 also. Nobody would listen to me. Now I see pictures of adapters that are pieced together with ugly looking solder joints.

You do realize that the Thelin adapter has a soldered/brazed joint on each end of the hard line don't you?

My issue with the Thelin adapter is it puts the connection point in an awkward position where the fiero line needs to coil and be partially kinked to connect to it. Just because it is cheap and has the right ends to perform the connection, doesn't mean is doesn't have compromises as well. So while you might believe its the best adapter for the conversion, I will continue to prefer a single inline adapter that allows the fiero line to just come over from the side for the connection. I will likely cut up the Thelin adapter on the car I am currently working on and weld the two machined ends together to get the simple connection I prefer.

[Emc209i]

You do realize that the Thelin adapter has a soldered/brazed joint on each end of the hard line don't you?

Of course I do, but it looks clean. The hydraulic line comes into the transmission at the same angle as the original slaves required. To me, its a very clean look. And I don't think the brazing will ever leak, ever.

What's your F40 adapter look like btw? I can't find a clear picture of it.

[fieroguru]

If you look close at the routing of the braided line, it follows a similar path as the Thelin adapter with its connection point near the bottom of the vertical portion of the braided line and within about 2-3" of the hard line in the lower right of the picture. The braided line is at least 66% longer than needed with the Thelin adapter and so you end up coiling up the braided line to take up the slack.

More pictures near the bottom of this page:
http://www.fiero.com/forum/Forum3/HTML/000123-13.html

[The Dark Side of Will]

Originally posted by fieroguru:
Took apart the G6 clutch master/bleeder assy and modified it to take a traditional flared line. Machined both pieces for a press fit then silver soldered them together:

I don't see any reason this part couldn't be turned from hex (heck, even square) brass bar on a lathe.

[fieroguru]

I don't see any reason this part couldn't be turned from hex (heck, even square) brass bar on a lathe.

That's the long term plan, but probably out of alumiunum.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I'd go for brass for corrosion resistance.

[Emc209i]

Green brass vs white aluminum?

[ericjon262]

Originally posted by fieroguru:

I went this same route with mine. haven't tested it yet, but I'm confident it'll be fine.

[caffeine]

When I went to remove the clutch line from my slave cylinder, the nut stripped even using a flare nut wrench. What I ended up doing was having an AN -4 male fitting silver soldered onto the bleeder ($20 at local shop), then I installed a Russell -4 powerflex hose end on the OEM Fiero braided line. It worked quite well except that it was a pain to install the hose end due to the Fiero line being metric and ever so slightly larger than -4 line. I drilled out the brass olive until it slipped on.

[ericjon262]

I bought one of Rodney's hose repair kits. to go along with the adapter (similar to 'guru's) that I had made at a local machine shop.

[The Dark Side of Will]

[carbon]

I might have posted about that... I found it when I was searching for adapters, popped up on a ls1tech.com thread, apparently this connector is rather common on newer GM manual transmissions.

$45 shipped at Summit... was more expensive everywhere else I found it listed.

If you bought a Fiero Store SS clutch line, the connector for the hard line to their braided flex section is -4AN... as is this adapter.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Yeah, you posted it on Pfiffle... I didn't pick up on the username at the time.

[ericjon262]

does anyone have the bellhousing depth at the input shaft handy? I'm trying to find out if my clutch/pressure plate will work with the HTOB without a spacer.

[fieroguru]

does anyone have the bellhousing depth at the input shaft handy? I'm trying to find out if my clutch/pressure plate will work with the HTOB without a spacer.

This should be everything you need to know:

Originally posted by fieroguru:

Most F23's should measure +/- .020" of so of the measurements I took (the bearing wobbles some, so there will be some variation in the measurement). The dimensions below were from a brand new F23 HTOB with the bleeder assy installed and open, so there was no air or trapped fluid to alter the measurements.

2.776" Retracted
1.899" Extended

With these measurements, the HTOB has a range of travel of about 0.877". If you go with the assumption that room for extension (releasing the clutch) should be 2/3rd (0.585")to 3/4ths (0.658") of the available travel,

Then you want the clutch fingers of the pressure plate to be between (1.899 + .585 =) 2.484" and (1.899 + .658" =) 2.557"

So measure your clutch fingers and see what the dimension is. If it falls between 2.484" to 2.557 then you don't need a HTOB spacer. If not, then a spacer is needed. For example if your pressure plate fingers are 2.200" from the bell housing surface, then you will need a spacer 0.284 to 0.357" thick.