Real Fiero Tech

I finished installing the Griffin radiator. No more overheating at the track!

I'm running BF Goodrich Rivals now since Hankook is changing the compound on the RS3s and they're out of stock everywhere. I still have 215/45/17 and 275/35/18. The rears seem to wear a lot better than the RS3s, but the fronts still shave a lot off the outer shoulders from each day at the track. I am designing some adjustable upper control arms so I can add more caster and camber, since I'm maxed out at a little under -1 deg camber right now.

Just some updated pics of the car:




Lap video from last weekend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8r5zMC-rDA

Beautiful! The light was excellent on that vid...

Great looking Fiero Steven

Ever think of adding an aero nose and some side skirts? Only reason I say aero nose is because it's the only way the skirts would look good. Bring the body lower, might help with drag at higher speeds?

I do like the Formula/Coupe bumper though.

Nah, I don't like the aero package at all. It looks too bulky and outdated.

On Friday I installed a brake proportioning adapter from aaron88 and quickly set it up with some test stops around town, then headed out to Buttonwillow Raceway in Central California for two back-to-back days at the track.

Quick background: 1988 Fiero coupe with a 3.4 DOHC, Bilstein and Koni suspension, 700 lb springs up front, 475 in the rear, 12" C4 rotor upgrade from West Coast Fiero using stock '88 Fiero calipers and Porterfield R4 racing pads. 215/45/17 BFG Rivals up front and 275/45/17 BFG Rivals in the rear. The tires are staggered to match the weight distribution. The car weighs 2940 with me in it, with a 43%/57% weight distribution.

HOLY $#!&! Adding some more rear brake bias transformed the car. Three major things happened: 1) The front brakes no longer overheat after a few hot laps, because they aren't working as hard now that the rears do something. 2) Overall braking is SIGNIFICANTLY increased. I had trouble locking up the brakes. It just stopped harder and harder and harder. Braking was very progressive. 3) I can now brake hard enough without locking up that the brake pedal is finally down to the height of the gas pedal.... which means heel-toeing is finally possible. Fanastic!

Now I would say the two biggest, most important changes I've ever made to the car are matching the tires to the weight distribution, and adding this brake proportioning valve adapter. Great product.

Full track day update in my Motorsports thread shortly. UPDATE: See here

The Dark Side of Will wrote: Is your engine bay still that clean?

New engine bay pic from today:


You might notice my Provent installed at the lower right out of sight. I don't have the lines hooked up to it yet though.

Also the new wing mounts and endplates:

I see you still have the huge and heavy engine lift bracket on the front head haha.

Have you considered dumping the decklid lift supports for weight?

Aaron wrote:I see you still have the huge and heavy engine lift bracket on the front head haha.

Have you considered dumping the decklid lift supports for weight?

Yeah, I need to remove the bracket still. I can't get to the bolts without taking the crossover off, so I haven't messed with it. It's on the list!

I have considered making some changes to the decklid and hinges, but it's a low priority because I think it's worth < 5 lbs but still requires a lot of effort. Gutting the whole decklid so it's just a thin panel would be worth a lot, but then my trunk wouldn't seal.

For what it's worth you can get all of the bolts out with the crossover on, but you can't get the bracket off without removing the crossover. So same thing ha.

don't gut the underside of the decklid. It weighs maybe 1-2 lbs or so. It weakens the decklid significantly too and you won't be able to use the strut rod anymore as the decklid will flex. I cut out a bit on the underside of mine to make sure the decklid cleared my intake, then trimmed it on both sides to make it looks even from side to side. Its flimsy now. I might be looking for a new decklid eventually

Shaun41178(2) wrote:don't gut the underside of the decklid. It weighs maybe 1-2 lbs or so. It weakens the decklid significantly too and you won't be able to use the strut rod anymore as the decklid will flex. I cut out a bit on the underside of mine to make sure the decklid cleared my intake, then trimmed it on both sides to make it looks even from side to side. Its flimsy now. I might be looking for a new decklid eventually

Interesting.. so where is all the weight in the decklid? I can't find my notes right now but I think I weighed it at 25 lbs or so.

Almost done...

Looks wicked. Is the red part of the wrap or clear panels to the color underneath?

crzyone wrote:Looks wicked. Is the red part of the wrap or clear panels to the color underneath?

It's printed on the wrap. I had them color match the Fiero red. They got it reaaalllllyyy close.

Horrible pic, but it's all I have so far. Rushed to finish for the MCM LA meet and didn't have time to do the rear bumper yet.



I might look into casting some clear lenses. Also needs a hood scoop bad.

Awesome

I'll take a pic of the underside of my decklid so you can see what all I removed. I removed maybe 1lb. I thought it was going to be way more but when I cut a piece out I held it in my hand and it weighed a lot less than I thought it would.

That looks wicked! Looking forward to seeing some more pics.

here is a pic. I cut out the middle to clear my custom intake, and added an older style mustang scoop I made the cut much larger than most I would say for my intake. The reinforcements on the side don't weigh that much. All that reinforcing isn't worth cutting out. It doesn't weigh anything. I guess if you are looking for every pound possible I would do it, but I don't think it will make any noticeable improvement anywhere.

The decklid was fine and not saggy until I cut out the middle section after I had already had done the original modifying and cutting.

I guess it depends how radical you want to get, but without a spare decklid, I wouldn't do it. If I was to use rodneys struts I would need one on both sides now as I have a single and it causes the decklid to bend under its own weight now

I was going to turn it into a skin, not just cut out the bottom supports. The outer skin couldn't weigh more than a couple pounds. Might need another ply of 'glass on the inside though.

If you removed the rest of the reinforcements it might even hold up better; all the weight that's far from the hinge is still there but the support is gone.

Anyway, I have a spare decklid so I'll just hack into it when I have some time.