Totally unoriginal LQ1 build thread

[ericjon262]

if they came in the same manufacturer box, and you got them from the same retailer, they are probably ok to use.

Both were true of the ATP (not ARP) flywheel bolts; they were from the same manufacturer in the same box from the same retailer. However, one set was 100% junk. See http://realfierotech.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... 18#p145133

Bad idea to use fasteners that you have any question about in any critical application.

yeah, aircraft manufactures/maintainers have been fucked by "correct" fasteners before... right box, marked for the right grade, but not the grade labeled...

[The Dark Side of Will]

Installing the TTY head bolts. Clevite Mahle brand they "are" made in the USA. While finishing up one head and moving to the next I noticed that the head bolts from the second box, although the same grade, are not the same... The set I've already installed has well defined hex heads, clear stamping, etc.. while the second box of head bolts is suspiciously "chi com" in looks... much like the flywheel bolts that Series bought and compared some time ago.

I'm probably being overly paranoid but should this be a concern before I go on?

I am going to turbo this motor so would arp studs "really" be that much more beneficial? I know there are none specifically made for the lq1 but FieroObsessed over on OE did find some that would work if you took off about a half inch or tapped the block deeper.

thoughts?

Head bolts are not TTY. They are T+A... just FYI.
CALL Clevite Mahle (I didn't know those companies were associated...) and describe bolts and their markings. A suitable engineer there should be able to tell you whether they are legit or not.

Also, are there stickers on the boxes? Are the stickers different?

Counterfeit parts are becoming a HUGE deal for a lot of industries. Supply chain risk management is receiving a lot more effort across industry than it used to.

[draven]

Head bolts are not TTY. They are T+A... just FYI.

CALL Clevite Mahle (I didn't know those companies were associated...) and describe bolts and their markings. A suitable engineer there should be able to tell you whether they are legit or not.

Also, are there stickers on the boxes? Are the stickers different?

Counterfeit parts are becoming a HUGE deal for a lot of industries. Supply chain risk management is receiving a lot more effort across industry than it used to.

Thanks.. T+Angle does make more sense doesn't it..

Mahle acquired Clevite back in 2008: ( or at least Clevite mexico)
http://www.ebearing.com/news2008/061201.htm

I went ahead and orderd the ARP studs direct from ARP as the ones that fit aren't very common ATP5.950-2LUB and the only kit the ARP tech could cross reference them into was 4 of the 16 studs for the mazda 2.5L K series in the ProbeGT and 626 V6. Got a 3 week wait on them though...oh well, back to the interior and engine bay and cradle and brakes and....

Creds goto FieroObsessed for locating the ATP5.950-2LUB studs

[draven]

Ok put the ARP head studs in the block after using a bottoming tap to get a few more turns to clear the cam carriers.. waiting on the INA lightened lifters from WOTTech at the moment.. so while finishing up the resto'ing the rest of the car I just about had it with this chassis... I'm sick and tired of coming across half ass'ed'ness, twist ties holding harness items together, connectors not soldered but spade/but connected without solder, literally a couple of pounds of dirt behind the panels, fiberglass resin and liquid nails used as general adhesives, brake fluid that's leaked and seeped down onto chassis parts and eaten paint away, holes in the cut trunk welds that were neither sealed or weatherized, over zealous use of an oxy torch having put holes in firewall, fenders, and bulkheads, oversized rivets attached rockers, orange peel on all the "not so visible" surfaces, on and on and on... yes I know its a fiero but I have a little too much pride in my work to leave stuff like this unfinished.... Furthermore, the thought of welding up an 88 front cross-member was weighing heavily as "another" thing to do . Hey.. I bought the car sight unseen and am paying the price...

So I've decided to finish stripping it (already 75% there) and shit-can the frame and start with an 88.

On that note I've zero'd in on two 88's..

There's a local 88 formula with 116K, black, really faded, 7/10 interior (perfect dash strangely enough), koni's up front, lowering springs all around(will not be utilized), well maintained mechanically, newly installed but leaking water pump, been sitting for 8 months, all options except power mirrors for 800$

The other is an out of state, all options except sunroof and leather, 88GT red, 140K, all stock, 10/10 gray interior, 9.9/10 exterior, show car, for 4200$

Net cost between the two, once the 88 formula panels are upgraded with repaired and repainted GT panels, would give a slight nod towards the formula until one factor's in time..

thoughts on any other factors I may be missing?

[The Dark Side of Will]

If you're going to strip it and put all of your car's parts on it, go with the Formula.

You didn't mention anything about transmission... Are they both sticks or autos?

You found out already what happens when you buy a car site unseen. Go look at them and see if either one is rusty.

[draven]

If you're going to strip it and put all of your car's parts on it, go with the Formula.

You didn't mention anything about transmission... Are they both sticks or autos?

You found out already what happens when you buy a car site unseen. Go look at them and see if either one is rusty.

both are autos so I will be transferring my stick components over. steel clutch pedal with newly purchased, clutch, pressure plate, and 88/beretta flywheel and dickman master and slave..

the formula I've looked over, no rust, just aged panels and really faded paint and a couple small gouges in roof SMC.

I've already asked the owner of the 88GT to pull back the rear fender wells and take some pics.. trunk pics check out as if it was right off the show room...

[The Dark Side of Will]

Will you be transferring your car's body over?

[draven]

Will you be transferring your car's body over?

For the Forumula, I will have the torch red panels repainted by Paul Angel while off and then transfer, for the GT no need, factory Bright Red paint without a scratch

[The Dark Side of Will]

My personal thought is to leave the nice car for someone who wants to but a nice car and use the Formula for your project... but I totally understand the amount of personal effort involved in stripping the car to the bare tub and building it back up.

However, it you're going to strip it to the bare tub, you will have the opportunity to paint and maintain the tub, deal with rust, add seal sealer, fill the joints with expanding foam, etc.

[draven]

I'm going to be reinspecting the 88 formula this sunday.

BTW, the car is "not" running right now.. to fix the water leak the owner took off the belt, water pulley, and alternator and hasn't worked any further.. it also has broken front engine mount... although the 88's are known to break, this one has a FS poly dogbone with original rubber tranny and engine mounts which may have contributed to the mount breaking.. on the 2.8 boat anchor can the water pump pully smack into the pssgr shock tower if the mount breaks and break the pump housing, or timing cover?

Besides pulling back the fendors to check for rust, help me start building a list of things to inspect.

Already inspected:
Oil, although slightly dirty was not milky.
Coolant level was still high.
Driver Door hinges in great shape, maybe replaced years ago
New sunroof headliner, no sag
no rust in trunk
no visible oil leaks
all new ignition components, plugs, wires, coil, distributor
88 koni front shocks
outer dew wipes are shot, inner wipes ok-good
both door glass has a few scratches
two small rips in 88 driver seat.
dash is perfect
wheel has some leather wrinkle
gauge needles a bit faded to yellow
carpet is in good to fair condition
formula nose has sag and spidering
moulding is broken on left rear fender
very faded black paint
88 wheels are in good to very good condition
tires are about 30-40% tread left
center console in good shape with typical warping
door gaskets very good
carfax checks out clean
rear struts look factory
rear suspension bushings look oem

talked to previous previous owner:
Rebuilt engine .30 over, new bearings and timing chain
rebuilt front calipers, new rotors and pads

going to bring a battery to at least get the electrical system up and functioning.

Things still to inspect:
steering column lock to lock over travel
wheel well rust
headlight motors
blinkers
fuel pump
blown fuses
starter

what else?

[Series8217]

Front wheel bearings. Make sure they are original and have no play. If you don't know how to identify an aftermarket bearing, bring a stock bearing with you to compare. If the ones on the car are not identical to it, they are no good. Knock 100 to 150 off the purchase price -- per side.

[Shaun41178(2)]

If the front bumper is saggy it might have hit something or the metal supports are rusted away. Under the front decklid above the rad support is a brace that supports the bumper with like 6 screws. You will be able to see if this bracket is rusty or screws missing with the hood popped.

Either way its an 800$ Fiero. It will for the most part need work like any 800$ car

[The Dark Side of Will]

Knock 100 to 150 off the purchase price -- per side.

Either way its an 800$ Fiero. It will for the most part need work like any 800$ car

Yeah, I don't know how much negotiating room there is on an $800 car.

OTOH, I picked up my Formula for $400 or $500, depending on how much of the package deal I attribute to it vice the Falconer intake.

[draven]

Ok inspected the formula again and brought a fresh battery to test the electricals... headlights verrry slow with broken gear teeth... windows and locks barely nudge... cranked engine with alternator and water pump disengaged.. started but spewed about a cup of "water" from a rusted corner of the muffler. Can that much condensation get in the exhaust?

Ordered an inspection of the out of state "mint" 88. She ain't mint underneath..pretty darn good for 146K miles, but no trailer queen.. so I have no qualms about tearing into her if I wind up with it. Pics from the inspector revealed some surface rust on undercarriage and some noticeable corrosion on auto trans cooler lines and brake line and their brackets..

Other problems were inoperable cruise, tie rods and ball joints are on their way out (leaking), I'm sure bushings are original too, single smudge on driver seat and headliner, small spider webbing on driver rocker, passenger dew wipe heading sout, valve cover leak and transmission leak perhaps.. and the horn doesn't work, omg! I'm sure the courtesy lights come on when depressed..

I asked the owner to pull the wheel wells and take pics to locate any additional rust signs in the typical frame locations:

Thoughts?

[fieroguru]

That doesn't look bad at all. I would have them pull the carpet corners to take a picture of the inside walls of the trunk.If those show no signs of rust through.
Also, take a hard look at the front corners and the ends of the lower rear frame rails where they bolt to the bumper to see if it has had any front/rear end collisions (even with a clean carfax). If the trunk walls are solid and the car is collision damage free, then it would be a very good base to start something with.

[draven]

Here's a trunk corner



profile of car:

[draven]

Went with the red GT above...

Anyone live between IL and GA in case it breaks down on the drive back?

Shipping prices from IL to GA are outrageous!! minimum 579$ so far..

had a 03 caddy deville shipped from miami to atl as a christmas gift to my mother last dec for 350$, tires were dry rotted and I had a set waiting here in my garage...

[The Dark Side of Will]

I paid right at $1000 to have the Ferrari moved from Denver to VA

[fieroguru]

Anyone live between IL and GA in case it breaks down on the drive back?

I am in Lancaster, KY 40444
859-339-4673

[draven]

Does anyone have any sources for custom laser cut SS304 / 321 exhaust header flanges?