Real Fiero Tech

Since I have automotive adhd I am going to build my wife's car. She has had it since new and it now has 270k km on it. I decided to do this build because the car has sentimental value, and I know she will appreciate it.

So I picked up a spare D16Y7 engine to build on the side. It ran well apparently and was pulled in order to do a B18 swap. I want to keep the car D16 just because it's her car and I'm looking for more torque and not a ton of HP so turbo it is. The stock D16Y7 is anemic, and you need to downshift a few gears on steep hills just to maintain speed or even slowly bleed off speed. It's really pathetic.

This is my parts list so far from shopping online the last few days.

Lets start with the turbo kit. It is an e-bay type kit but it comes with a real turbocharger. Turbonetics T3/4 good for about 400hp. I'm aiming for around 300-350 so it will work well.
http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-Indu ... _info.html

Forged Vitara Pistons and rods. One thing I like about building civics, cheap parts! These are good for over 500whp so more than strong enough for my build
http://p2p0.com/pistons/75mm-rod.html

D16Y8 intake manifold which has a sideways facing TB, easier to mount the turbo kit too and better flowing

Walbro 255 in tank replacement pump

Bosch 850cc injectors. Went a bit big but they were a good deal

XTD stage 4 clutch and pressure plate. I did some reading and it should be strong enough for what I need

ARP head studs

2.5" catback exhaust

Skunk 2 valves, springs, Supertech titanium retainers and valve guides.

And of course bearings, water pump, timing belt, gaskets etc etc. I think I have it mostly covered. Her bumper has a chunk taken out of it from someone hitting her will a ball hitch so I'll buy an SI bumper to replace it. I don't have any pics of her car on the computer but I'll upload some soon.

Anyways, this is kinda what I'm leaning towards. No shortage of good looking hatches to get inspiration from.

cool. That turbo will be laggy though.

You figure? Didn't really know. It's not rated for huge power but I was hoping it was small enough to give decent response. Worse case I install it, and if I don't like it I can sell it for a new one, something a little smaller.

Some progress tonight, spent a few hours tearing it down getting it ready for the machine shop.

Do you guys know what a shop prefers, tear it down, bring in the head and block separate or take it in the condition I have it in? I have it down to the bare long block, I figured I'd let them go the rest of the way so it doesn't get dirt and stuff in it (not that it really matters).

Before teardown, already took off the auto transmission that came with it.



After.



I will ask around for decent shops and drop off the engine when all my parts show up.

Do you guys think the crank will have much wear with 118,000 miles on it? Not sure if I'll order standard bearings or not. I think I'll just wait.

Machinists get paid to cut metal, not turn bolts. Deliver them bare parts on which to cut metal.

Mic the crank once you have it out so you order the right bearings.

Don't order any bearings un till you know what size you need. If the crank needs to be turned you just spent money on the wrong sized bearings.

If you are going to assemble it yourself I would hold out on bearings, rings and pistons u till you know what machine work needs to be done.

Also looking and I don't k ow your power goal but 850cc are prob way overkill

Took your suggestion and ordered brand new Acura RDX injectors. They are new technology and have a pretty amazing spray pattern. A lot of guys are using them in their builds these days. They are 430cc which should be plenty for this build.

Started taking the engine down yesterday. Plan is to get it in to a machine shop on Monday. Was quoted $35 a hole for boring and honing which seems really cheap to me.

Head gasket looks damn near brand new. Honda builders recommend using a factory Honda HG, they are a 3 layer metal gasket and are pretty strong.



White powdery stuff on the exhaust valves? I imagine it must be fuel additives or it was burning a little oil.



Some carbon buildup on the pistons. No ring ridge and there is some crosshatch left.



This is a strong looking bottom end. It doesn't surprise me some Honda guys are getting 600+ hp with a sleved block.



The factory connecting rods are a joke, little more than toothpicks. One of the new rods next to them for comparison. Have to notch the block for the new rods, having the machine shop do that as well.



This is as taken down as I'm going to get. Want to keep the crank supported while I'm transporting it.



Civics turbo next to my GTRs new turbo. I was surprised at the small external size difference but the inducer size is quite a bit different.




Parts are rolling in like crazy, it's like Christmas around here. I'll post some updates when I start assembling the engine.

Very cool. I just bought a 2013 SI and really enjoyed the 2nd Gen CRX I beat on back in college. Keep the build pics coming. The car looks awesome.

eHoward wrote:Very cool. I just bought a 2013 SI

Needs a turbo kit from Full-Race

Bottom end is still at the machine shop, will have updates as soon as I get it back.

That girdle is pretty impressive.

Personally I would've gone with a DOHC head motor, any specific reasons for not?

Gotta keep it numbers matching

Hmm. I don't see ANY inspector actually checking cylinder head cast numbers, or even most knowing the difference in DOHC vs SOHC.

Series has a 3.4 DOHC Fiero. I'd bet good money that he could get the 3.4 DOHC to pass as a stock 2.8 through most inspectors.

Aaron wrote:Hmm. I don't see ANY inspector actually checking cylinder head cast numbers, or even most knowing the difference in DOHC vs SOHC.

Numbers matching for sentimental value.

Aaron wrote:Hmm. I don't see ANY inspector actually checking cylinder head cast numbers, or even most knowing the difference in DOHC vs SOHC.

Series has a 3.4 DOHC Fiero. I'd bet good money that he could get the 3.4 DOHC to pass as a stock 2.8 through most inspectors.

I meant it in the, restored/collector/vintage car sense that buyers want to know its the ORIGINAL motor. I was being funny, but as per usual, I'm not as funny as I think I am.

It's not even numbers matching since I was handed this D16 for free to build. I will keep the original engine anyways, still runs fine.

Keeping it D16 non v-tec because I'm not looking for maximum HP, looking for some mid range torque so my wife can go up hills and not have to downshift and drop 10mph like it does now. This will still be my wife's car and she hates high RPM, so a turbo D16 should be perfect for her. The turbo may still be a bit large for my goals, we'll see when it's up and running. At around 10psi this engine should be around 200-220whp. At least that's what stock engine guys are getting. Being built I can see going as high as 20 for me to play around with. 300whp would be a lot of run in this light of a car. In 3rd gear anyways.

Short block is back from the machinist, looks pretty fancy.



Not sure what I'm going to do cam wise. I can send it away for a turbo regrind or just try the stock cam and see how it is. I'm not sure how a turbo regrind will affect fuel economy or street-ability.

Bought a fancy new valve spring tool, will update more when I get a chance to work on it.

Stock cam is fine imo. Its a daily, and for the wifey. It will do just fine

Plus it'll probably spool quicker on the stock cam.