Series inspired me, taking my turbo 3.4 to the track

[crzyone]

Run a siphon into the tank and use an external universal 255. I would also run in in-line fuel filter before the pump instead of the in tank sock. Much easier to replace and work on.

[crzyone]

Those fuel coolers are intended for low-pressure fuel systems used on carbureted vehicles, and probably aren't even designed to be used safely with EFI pressures.

Are you talking about this cooler?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f ... /overview/

It has A/N fittings on it and doesn't specify a pressure rating. Water supply to a house is typically 50-70psi and runs through your house in copper lines so it might be ok for EFI pressures.

[Aaron]

I want an in-tank pump for a few reasons, so I'd like to stick with a drop in replacement. And I have a wire running to my ALDL that can trigger the relay, and I've got a backup relay just in case.

[crzyone]

I have some racing experience with a fiero but I always ran on a full tank. Do fieros suffer from fuel starvation during maneuvers? Is a swirl pot required? A turbo engine that starves for fuel under boost is a recipe for melted pistons.

[Series8217]

I have some racing experience with a fiero but I always ran on a full tank. Do fieros suffer from fuel starvation during maneuvers? Is a swirl pot required? .

I regularly run mine down to 1 or 2 gallons on the track... so I would say no.

[fieroguru]

Large fuel pumps can heat your fuel to the point of vapor lock. Summit sells a fuel cooler to combat this.

I'm running a stock C4 vette pump in The Mule... I'm guessing that Guru is running a Walbro 255... not exactly huge pumps by modern standards.

I run the stock L31 pump on most my swaps, including the LS4 swap with about 430 fwhp. I hate noisy fuel pumps.

[fieroguru]

I have some racing experience with a fiero but I always ran on a full tank. Do fieros suffer from fuel starvation during maneuvers? Is a swirl pot required? A turbo engine that starves for fuel under boost is a recipe for melted pistons.

If the stock baffle is in place and in good shape, they don't tend to starve for fuel. I routinely fill my tank (88) with 10.2-10.4 gallons of fuel w/o ever having starvation issues.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Large fuel pumps can heat your fuel to the point of vapor lock. Summit sells a fuel cooler to combat this.

I'm running a stock C4 vette pump in The Mule... I'm guessing that Guru is running a Walbro 255... not exactly huge pumps by modern standards.

I run the stock L31 pump on most my swaps, including the LS4 swap with about 430 fwhp. I hate noisy fuel pumps.

Mine gets noisy when it gets hot... sounds like it's time for a replacement.

[Aaron]

Ya you guys are probably right, although it's done this since it's new. I'll probably replace it and add a cooler.

My dad had an idea I hadn't thought of yesterday, and that's to replace the fuel tank with an aluminum one up front. Would put a significant amount of weight over the front wheels, although that weight would be constantly changing. Would also allow me plenty of room for aluminum coolant lines down the center, A/C lines, fuel lines, heater lines, and intercooler lines.

So tank would weigh less, it'd put weight over the front wheels, wouldn't need a fuel cooler, and could add capacity. Negatives are my weight distribution would always be changing, it moves weight away from the center of the car, and I have 200 degree air blowing on it all the time.

I also read Guru's LS4 build thread, and I'm pretty sure that swap is not for me. The accessory belt hell and the whole starter/flywheel look to be out of my league. I'd love to build a turbo high feature 3.6, but that swap hadn't been done that I've seen, I'm not sure about tuning, and I think direct injection would be difficult as well with wiring/tuning.

[Aaron]

Problems with my car that make me want to buy a new, nice one, as opposed to fixing mine:

No headliner. Has flat aftermarket GT windows. Driver's side window stuck dow, door locks work halfway. I removed A/C and the trunk, want both back. Body needs some work. Got rear ended so that needs repaired. That's all I can think of right now. I know it sounds cheap and minor, but I don't want to do any of it.

[Aaron]

Read up on the fuel pumps a lot, and I ordered an AC Delco EP381. I guess it was the OEM pump for the 454, and the Piffer guys said it can cut it on a 3800 turbo no problem, so it should do me just fine. I'm fairly unhappy with my Walbro, and if an OEM pump can feed my needs, I'm all for it. Cooler fuel temps, OEM longevity and quietness, and it was cheap through Amazon.

Question. Should I also install my fuel cooler as well, or just leave that off? I know it probably won't be needed, but if it'll help I might as well. And cooler fuel means more powa right?

[ericjon262]

Read up on the fuel pumps a lot, and I ordered an AC Delco EP381. I guess it was the OEM pump for the 454, and the Piffer guys said it can cut it on a 3800 turbo no problem, so it should do me just fine. I'm fairly unhappy with my Walbro, and if an OEM pump can feed my needs, I'm all for it. Cooler fuel temps, OEM longevity and quietness, and it was cheap through Amazon.

Question. Should I also install my fuel cooler as well, or just leave that off? I know it probably won't be needed, but if it'll help I might as well. And cooler fuel means more powa right?

FWIW, cooler fuel will be more prone to puddling than hot fuel.

[Aaron]

Not sure if that'll be much of an issue on my car, that's a benefit of SFI. Plus we're not talking cool fuel, just ambient or slightly higher as opposed to double/triple ambient.

Time to drop the tank, which is much the same as a standard Fiero job on my car. Just need to move the intercooler lines and drain the tank first. So I checked my ALDL cable, and it's only got two wires, a blue and orange. Who the fuck wired this car? What is blue for? I assume orange is my fuel pump relay trigger, but I thought I left those all tan...?

And why isn't there a ground on the ALDL? Or a 12v supply?

[fieroguru]

I also read Guru's LS4 build thread, and I'm pretty sure that swap is not for me. The accessory belt hell and the whole starter/flywheel look to be out of my league.

I am working to make the LS4/F40 more accessible to others. I should be offering the flywheel, starter bracket, F40 shifter bracket and a direct fit HTOB connector later this year. I am also working on simplifying the accessory drive setup in this thread: http://www.fiero.com/forum/Forum1/HTML/094409.html

And why isn't there a ground on the ALDL? Or a 12v supply?

Because they are at the cigarette lighter 3" away.
Since your car is swapped... its because you didn't add them when you did your swap!

[Aaron]

Didn't read that far. I'd buy those parts tomorrow if you'd let me! And I like lightweight flywheels, so don't worry if it only weighs 6 or 7 pounds.

Must be nice to talk shit huh? Well I'll have you know, my car no longer has a cigarette lighter, the wiring guru moved those wires somewhere else or something. I think Series did my wiring harness. Yup, sounds right, it was all him, for sure. His long hair got in the way.

[fieroguru]

Didn't read that far. I'd buy those parts tomorrow if you'd let me! And I like lightweight flywheels, so don't worry if it only weighs 6 or 7 pounds.

Must be nice to talk shit huh? Well I'll have you know, my car no longer has a cigarette lighter, the wiring guru moved those wires somewhere else or something. I think Series did my wiring harness. Yup, sounds right, it was all him, for sure. His long hair got in the way.

The flywheel weighs 12 lbs.

I was just giving you a little grief to remind you that when you do a swap, you have lots of options on where things are placed. However, be careful adding them there as you would hate to fry a scanner because it had a pin where you put +12V. OBD2 does have a couple of grounds in the connector.

Unless Series modified your chassis harness, it wasn't him. The cigarette lighter is wired on the chassis side (off the 500 harness side about 1/3rd the way from the firewall - inside the car).

[Aaron]

I could roll with 12 lbs, that isn't too bad at all.

So I'm pretty confident the orange wire is the relay trigger for the fuel pump, since those wires in the harness are orange or tan. So I gave it 12v and it didn't do anything. Gave it 12 with the ignition on and it still didn't do anything. Maybe grounding it triggers the relay? I'm afraid to check that though haha.

I'm just giving Series a hard time, I wired the car it's my fault. I'm not sure what I did with the cigarette lighter wires. They might be powering my piggyback... Which would explain the car's battery drain.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The fuel pump electrical connector is off the chassis harness by the right decklid hinge...

[Aaron]

I know, it's just difficult to get to with the 3.4 in there. I think I have to get it from underneath.

So I tested that orange wire. Ign off it has 0v. Ign on it gets 4v, but not steady 4, it flashes between 4.39 and 4.02. Then if I turn Ign back off it holds it's flashing 4v for about 10 seconds, then zeroes again. What the hell?

I'll just go for the fuel pump connector haha. Though I'm not sure which wire should get power/ground, so maybe I'll just unplug the relay and give some random wires 12v (Not the black one though).

[Aaron]

Black wire is ground. Middle Red wire is dumb, but doesn't do anything bad or good when given 12v, so fuel gauge. Yellow wire is pump power. Hooked those up and drained the tank.

Also tested my intercooler, since day one I've had doubts on whether it actually flowed water. It does. A lot.

Looks like I have oil and trans gear oil leaks. Oil leaks all seem to be pan related, which is good. I can't tell where the trans is leaking from yet.