lz9 3900 V6 buildup

[Shaun41178(2)]

13.1 is barely enough to keep the battery charged. The alternator may be fine but there could be a big voltage drop due to corroded or insufficient wiring to your fuse panel or ECU.

I got a huge improvement in performance from my charging system by running the alternator sense wire ("S" terminal) all the way to where the fuse panel bus wiring hooks up. I can't remember exactly where this is on a stock Fiero but it's two ~10 awg cables, red and red/white if I remember correctly, with fusible links. The stock wiring might omit the S wire altogether or jump it to the alternator output terminal. This is bad.. You want to at least run it to the end of the alternator cable so the voltage regulator in the alternator can make up for the voltage drop on that cable.

I skipped over details to not be too wordy in previous posts but it perhaps has caused some confusion.

The battery is charging at 14.5-7 or so. Vom confirms this. I wired the MS through the factory wiring and fuse panel so it's losing voltage through the factory stuff. I guess around a volt and a half.

Fuel pump off the relay shows 12.5 and I could prob get a bit more out of it with thicker wiring which I might do later.

The alt appears to be working correctly but perhaps there is a bit of belt slip up top. It's not making any squealing noises however, but maybe it doesn't squeel normally in upper rpm? No idea.

Either way, I still think I need a boost a pump with only a single fuel pump running e85 especially if I want more power. Right now it seems that around 550ish whp might be near the limit of a 535 with the voltage my pump sees.

Perhaps if my pump was seeing 13.5-14 volts it would support a little bit more power, if I had larger gauge wire and soldered connections. But as it is, the boost a pump is necessary in my application especially since I want to turn it up.

I figure current fuel setup will make 650-700 whp maxed out.

If this engine survives, and the clutch holds, and the car still runs lean even at 20+ lbs of boost, then I'll just have to go with an external pump, like a magnafuel 750, and ditch the in tank pump

[The Dark Side of Will]

Fuel pump off the relay shows 12.5 and I could prob get a bit more out of it with thicker wiring which I might do later.

if I had larger gauge wire and soldered connections.

Open barrel crimps without solder are fine with regard to resistance, and present a lower risk of cracking the wire because it wicked up solder from the terminal.

This connector can replace the engine compartment fuel pump connector (C502):

It's not a "pass through", but here's some pages of the (formerly) Delphi (now Aptiv) Connection Systems Global Catalog depicting a mixed-size sealed Metri-Pack connector pair with 2x 480 terminals and 5x 150 terminals. This is perfect for overkilling the shit out of the fuel pump power circuit, while maintaining level sender (and, if necessary, tank pressure sensor or ethanol content sensor) connections, all through the same connector.

Mixed_Metri-Pack_150_480.pdf

The alt appears to be working correctly but perhaps there is a bit of belt slip up top. It's not making any squealing noises however, but maybe it doesn't squeel normally in upper rpm? No idea.

With my first shot at a Northstar belt drive, I could watch the volt meter drop as the tach got to the top end... never heard the belt squeal. That setup also had fairly minimal (maybe 90 degrees? maybe less?) of crank pulley wrap. The original Fiero drive hardly has any more belt wrap and does not have an automatic tensioner.

You might try Rodney's idler pulley kit:
http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.p ... ucts_id=71

Either way, I still think I need a boost a pump with only a single fuel pump running e85 especially if I want more power.

Not saying the boost-a-pump isn't what you need... just that it'll have better results with a lower resistance circuit.

The F PUMP fuse is hot at all times (HAAT) fed straight from S206 with 3mm^2 wire (12ga IIRC). S206 is fed with a 10ga wire from the battery junction block. From the fuse it's 16ga through C203 to the relay. From the relay it's 16ga back through C203 and then C502. You could use two instances of that connector I linked above, one for the fuel pump wiring in C203 and one to completely replace C502. It would take a little crawling around under your dash, but you could run a 12 or 14ga wire from the F PUMP fuse in the block to the new connector.

EDIT:
If you don't already have it, I recommend Rodney's reinforcement for the alternator bracket as well:
http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.p ... ucts_id=81

[Shaun41178(2)]

I figured Id share my results so far with the BAP. This is gonna be a screenshot of my VE table pre and post BAP.

Pre.

before BAP.jpg (163.37 KiB) Viewed 2099 times

and after first session with the BAP. I have had to pull about 13-15% in some tables so far. got a bit more to get it dialed in where I
want it.

after BAP.jpg (158.43 KiB) Viewed 2099 times

[ericjon262]

I would say that looks like it's working well. I hope to get the fuel system installed in the Fiero on my day off later this week, hopefully I also have good results.

[The Dark Side of Will]

You're running some kind of MegaSquirt, right? I guess it does NOT do cylinder-by-cylinder fuel trim.

[ericjon262]

You're running some kind of MegaSquirt, right? I guess it does NOT do cylinder-by-cylinder fuel trim.

he's running a microsquirt, and IIRC, not full sequential, so no, he cannot. MS3 does support cylinder to cylinder trims.

[Shaun41178(2)]

Correct. Microsquirt

It's OBD1 essentially with a faster processor. It's basic but works for what I need it to do. Plus it's a fiero after all.