the pig rig?

[The Dark Side of Will]

What did you hit the scoring with? It doesn't clean up with 2000 grit sand paper?

I would have said having the crank ground would be preferrable. As you noted, buying a replacement crank runs the risk of getting one not balanced for the application--ie, a 305 crank.

[ericjon262]

I'll try some 2000 grit, but I don't think it will be saveable without grinding, the defect is deep enough to grab a fingernail hard. I might give it another go, but I don't think it will come out. you bring up a very good point, I didn't even think about the fact that a 305 and 350 use the same crank.

[The Dark Side of Will]

If it's a deep scratch, you won't be able to polish it out with 2000 grit, BUT as long as it's entirely below the surface the bearings see... what's the problem? At that point it's just an oil reservoir.

[ericjon262]

it will mean a higher load on the oil film, but for this engine, probably not a big deal, this isn't exactly a high HP hi RPM engine...I'll work at it for a spell tomorrow when I get off work.

[ericjon262]

Slapped some paint on the front drive brackets, far from good, but good from afar... lol.

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Cleaned all the block gaskets mating surfaces.

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some jackass stamped letters all over the oil pan rail, right where the gasket goes I'm just going to apply a thin bead of RTV around the pan to ensure it seals.

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[ericjon262]

Bead blast in a can... lol.

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short block is back together, I ended up picking up a replacement crank, shooting from the hip and hoping it doesn't try and rattle to pieces.... lol..

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when I remove the intake, the oil pressure switch snapped off, I thought for sure I was screwed.

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picked up a set of "easy-outs", knowing that they're never easy, and well, it actually went pretty easy...

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[The Dark Side of Will]

That style of easy out has a slightly better success rate than the square/straight style. That also looks like brass, so less likely to be seized in place in an iron block than a steel fitting would be. Use teflon tape on the replacement for future ease of removal.

I've had good success with Grab-Bits.

You could have pushed the pistons out to the deck to make installing the crank easier. Also slip some short pieces of hose over the rod bolts to protect the journals during installation.

I see you tacked the pickup tube in place as well.

[ericjon262]

That style of easy out has a slightly better success rate than the square/straight style. That also looks like brass, so less likely to be seized in place in an iron block and a steel fitting would be. Use teflon tape on the replacement for future ease of removal.

I've had good success with Grab-Bits.

You could have pushed the pistons out to the deck to make installing the crank easier. Also slip some short pieces of hose over the rod bolts to protect the journals during installation.

I see you tacked the pickup tube in place as well.

have never had any success with any form of "easy-out" before this. I've seen them break on a regular basis though, and when they do, it's a huge PITA. the pistons were moved back and forth quite a bit during assembly, I think it probably would have been easier, and safe to just pull the heads and take the pistons all the way out, but it's in the past now. I actually didn't tack the pump pickup in place, if I had done it, the welds would have been less shitty... lol.

[ericjon262]

things are slowly coming together, it's going to look nice when I put it back in, and at this point, the only thing holding it back is the flywheel bolts, one of them didn't want to play nice coming out, so it has to be replaced... the air tube cleaned up nice, I'm surprised to see GM used stainless for it...

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I picked up a set of "flat-top" knuckles from a D44 axle. they fit the 10 bolt and allow me to bolt a steering arm to the passenger side knuckle for the drag link to attach, so I can run crossover steering and improve steering under articulation.

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[The Dark Side of Will]

things are slowly coming together, it's going to look nice when I put it back in,

It's great when an engine comes back together!

and at this point, the only thing holding it back is the flywheel bolts, one of them didn't want to play nice coming out, so it has to be replaced...

ARP!

the air tube cleaned up nice, I'm surprised to see GM used stainless for it...

It's an emissions component; I've always @$$umed EPA had some emissions warranty or durability requirements that drove material selection in some of the less likely applications for stainless.

I picked up a set of "flat-top" knuckles from a D44 axle. they fit the 10 bolt and allow me to bolt a steering arm to the passenger side knuckle for the drag link to attach, so I can run crossover steering and improve steering under articulation.

Snazzy. I guess there are only so many ways to skin a cat.

[ericjon262]

the knuckles are factory parts from an early model D44 axle, they make aftermarket ones for about $300 a side, I paid $150 for both.

as for the flywheel bolts, I'm going to go with whatever I can get tomorrow afternoon. this engine will make a whopping 300 ft lbs of torque if I'm lucky, the flywheel bolts breaking aren't really high on my list of worries.

the exhaust up to and including the cat converter is also EPA regulated, and it's under more stress, and not stainless.

[The Dark Side of Will]

GM uses 409 stainless because it's cheap. It's just not as stainless as 304, 316 or 321. It ends up getting rust covered but doesn't rust through... The Fiero exhaust for example.

[ericjon262]

There wasn't a spec of rust on them, just greasy buildup from years of oil leaks and what not.

[The Dark Side of Will]

On the cats, you mean? Sounds like stainless to me

[ericjon262]

Nah, on th tubes, technically the suburban doesn't have a cat, it has a 3 way catalyst. But the 409 typically gets a little surface rust and starts to look crappy. These tubes look brand new, I think they might be 304, but it doesn't really matter.

I'm hoping to have a the engine ready to go in by close of business today, (25MAR) so I can get it back in the truck tomorrow. I am still trying to decide whether or not to spring for some poly engine mounts. The parts store replacements look real cheap compared to the stockers.

[ericjon262]

not really much to report. I'm hoping to have the engine back in by the end of the weekend. I removed the brackets for the quadshocks, and threw a little paint on the firewall, it looks way better in person, the rough top edge is GM's black seam sealer...

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I also did an inspection of the wiring harness, and found a few things that I didn't like...

The PO seemed to think of this as a "Fix",I cut the damage out, crimped a splice, and heat shrunk the affected wires.

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then I found some abrasion damage on the TPS 5v ref,again, I cut out the damage, and spliced in new wire.

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I also found out the motor mounts I bought shortly after buying this truck, are not the right mounts, at all, and of coarse I don't have the boxes or receipts either... DOH. I also have heard plenty of stories of parts store mounts lasting a few weeks before failing, so maybe it's for the better, because I just ordered a set of poly engine and trans mounts.

The EGR solenoid that was on the truck had failed, and been plugged by the previous owner, so I also ordered a new on as well, hopefully it will clear the CEL that was in.

[ericjon262]

Here's a better shot of the wiring I had to repair...

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I replaced the engine mount inserts. the old mounts fell apart bad. I wanted to use rubber to reduce NVH, but I couldn't find a rubber mount I liked.

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The engine is ready to go in the truck, I have a few parts on order that are holding the process up though.

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[ericjon262]

I pulled the steering shaft and gearbox, remember in the last post, I said parts were holding me back? well, I ordered a Jeep XJ steering shaft, it uses universal joints instead of a rag joint, and is supposed to be a damn near bolt in swap. supposedly is makes a huge difference in the steering of the truck.

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With the exception of the Y pipe, the exhaust is/was trash, I'll have to throw a new one together from the Y pipe back.

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[The Dark Side of Will]

409 Stainless

ETA: Interesting info on the steering shaft... I'd like that for my dad's truck if it works for you.

[ericjon262]

seems pretty straightforward,

https://youtu.be/H9C4RdvjPNQ

The shafts can be had new:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_0026_07.htm

hopefully everything will be here by Thursday.