the pig rig?

[pmbrunelle]

The trip reaffirmed that I need a front locker, more power would be nice, but I won't call it a requirement like the locker.

Looks like fun!

Maybe also armour for underneath? In one video it sort of looks like the rear diff pumpkin got smacked in the rock garden.

[ericjon262]

The trip reaffirmed that I need a front locker, more power would be nice, but I won't call it a requirement like the locker.

Looks like fun!

Maybe also armour for underneath? In one video it sort of looks like the rear diff pumpkin got smacked in the rock garden.

it's a blast! I enjoy driving in 3 dimensions!

I'm planning a few things, rock sliders, proper skid plates, and maybe coil sprung suspension. There's a Dana 60 front axle complete with a locker for sale a day's drive away. it's super tempting, but I think I'm going to hold off, I need to start saving money and not hemorrhaging it out on things that I don't really need.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I need to start saving money and not hemorrhaging it out on things that I don't really need.

[ericjon262]

with the Gran Damn out of the garage, I can roll the DMax chassis back into the garage, I want to get the fish plates welded onto the chassis, and move the axle forward so that the chassis can be more or less, ready for the body to be test fit on it. I need to come up with a design for the front leaf spring hangers for the rear axle still, the bolt for the front eye will actually have to pass through the frame, so some reinforcement will be necessary. I would also like to get the fuel tank situation figured out 100%, along with a proper trailer hitch. I'll probably build the trailer hitch before the fuel tank, so that I can use the hitch to sure up the frame prior to removing the spare tire crossmember.

I'm also considering adding airbag mounts, and ordering softer rear springs, that way I can have a smoother ride when I'm not towing.

[ericjon262]

I drew the fish plates for the 2500HD frame today, I plan to cut them tomorrow, and maybe get them welded on. if you remember, when I cut the frame, I cut it at an angle, the fish plates are angles will be opposite the cut angles when installed. The overall length of the cuts on the frame, are 10", the turns on the fishplates match that 10", and then go past the ends of the cuts by 5" on either side for an overall length of 20"

the smaller plates are for the top and the bottom of the frame, they're 1.5" wide, and 10" long.

because the side plates are as tall as they are, I put holes in them to allow me to weld them from the center as well. I'm confident that the frame will be at least as strong as the stock 2500HD frame once I'm done.

[ericjon262]

I got the plates cut, but I didn't want to roll the chassis into the shop until after I got the Fiero's Fuel tank swapped, which I'm currently waiting on a few fittings for.

here's a shot of the cut plate on the side of the frame, I'll need to sandblast the frame in this area prior to welding to both remove rust from being in the elements, and the chassis coating in the areas that weren't already welded.



The next step after welding the plates on, will be to move the rear axle forward, one of the considerations I need to keep in mind, is mounting the shocks, I'll have to fabricate a crossmember each, as one shock is mounted to the spare tire carrier, and one to a welded in crossmember. I've never given it much thought, is there a reason shocks on alive axle are mounted on opposite sides (front/rear) of the axle, and not both front or rear? I probably won't change it, because then I'll also have to rework the axle, but it's something I never thought about.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The front/rear mounting helps avoid axle wrap/hop

[ericjon262]

The front/rear mounting helps avoid axle wrap/hop

that's kinda what I was thinking, but I wasn't 100% sure, thanks

[ericjon262]

bleh. I've been having a massive debate with myself about the powertrain for the OG Pig. The TBI 350 runs well, but man, it's so pathetically underpowered. last time I checked 0-60, it was 22+seconds.... not that I'm trying to race it, but... damn.

I have a few options:

Pros(+) and Cons(-)

Heads/cam/tune on the stock 350
+I know the bottom end is ok
+can use existing wiring harness
-because the engine is in the truck, it has the potential to take longer to do, and keep the truck off the road longer than it would take to R&R a whole engine.
----it's a flat tappet block, installing a roller cam is $$$, and I'd rather not roll the dice with a flat tappet going flatter.

roller cam Vortec 350
+dirt cheap power upgrade
+can be run with TBI, or OBD2
+if run TBI, my existing transmission is ok to be run with it.
++++++Serpentine belt drive
-needs an intake manifold to continue running TBI

454
+MASSIVE power upgrade, with pretty much unlimited potential.
+could run TBI, or OBD2, I have the parts for either option.
-heavy
-gas hog, but possibly matches the stock TBI engine mileage through better breathing.
-I'm bought into a new exhaust no matter how I do it.
-needs an upgraded transmission
>-upgraded transmission needs a matching transfer case
>>-I was planning on a doubler, and have most of the parts to build one, but that would also require new driveshafts
>>>-I'd like to install one ton axles, which will also require new driveshafts, and I don't want to buy driveshafts twice



overall

I have access to a L31 vortec, and a 4L80e, for free from an old junk truck of my dad's, the truck has issues, but the engine and trans were fairly solid.

I also have most of the parts to build an NP203/NP205 doubler, which is probably the best transfer case setup I could reasonably put in the truck, unfortunately, the parts I'm missing, are also fairly expensive, if I go the basic route, I'd be looking at about $1100 just to get them assembled.

I'd prefer to run the 454 with the OBD2 computer setup, because the transmission upgrade would be to a 4L80e, which needs a controller.

idea:

The L31 has provisions for a internal crank trigger wheel, much like the big block I have, EFI connection makes a trigger setup for this

https://www.eficonnection.com/home/prod ... istributor

The trigger could be installed on the L31, and the engine installed in the truck, but run off of the stock TBI computer for the time being, netting a healthy power upgrade, while minimizing downtime of the vehicle because the L31 is a bolt in replacement for my L05.

In the meantime, a MPFI manifold could be acquired for the L31(or use the one that came with the L31), the majoity of the EFI sensors are on, or associated with the intake manifold, so an entire OBD2 harness could be developed that only requires swapping the intake manifold, and plugging in O2 sensors, and the previously installed crank position sensor, once I'm ready to upgrade the transfer case to the doubler, I could install the 4L80e, and the intake/obd2 setup all at once, and control the whole assembly OBD2

Then, if I still find myself needing more from the truck, I could install the big block, the beauty of it, is that the big block could be run using the same sensors, PCM, and operating system as the L31, making the swap significantly faster to take place because the majority of the ground work has already been laid out.

I think this approach will from start to finish, be the most expensive, but, it will minimize downtime of the truck, and still make forward progress towards a more capable vehicle, while spreading the big costs out over time.

Thoughts?

[Shaun41178(2)]

You just finished your grand am right? Mostly?

Leave it alone dude. Who cares if it's slow. So you go from22 seconds to what, 16 seconds?

At that point who cares.

You have enough projects already. Stop adding stress

[ericjon262]

You just finished your grand am right? Mostly?

Leave it alone dude. Who cares if it's slow. So you go from22 seconds to what, 16 seconds?

At that point who cares.

You have enough projects already. Stop adding stress

22 seconds was just a standard metric that is easy for comparison, realistically, I'd like to be able to safely pass another vehicle, without hanging out in the other lane for days, the other side of the conversation actually involves the tires, I'd like to step up to 35's, which will further tax the tired 350, and the additional power could be a big help offroad.

I had a little time, so I went and snagged the L31 from dad's old truck, the free 4L80e was worth the trip by itself. I took almost everything, wiring, hoses, the PCM, the air intake, and even stuff like the windsheild washer jug, and coolant overflow jug. I did leave the transfer case, being driver drop, and electric shift, it was worthless to me.

The victim.



removing the core support made removal of the engine and transmission way easier.



I meant to take more pictures, but I was also trying to thrash and get it out without making a giant mess. we hit a couple SNAFU moments. The cherry picker decided to not cherry pick, so we had to resort to the boom pole on the tractor, a 1972 Ford 2000 that likes to pop and bang, and needs some hydraulic system love, so it doesn't actually lift smoothly at all, it made things... interesting... we pulled the engine and transmission mounts, and then tried pulling it. it moved a little bit, and then stopped. at first, the problem was the exhaust manifolds hitting the frame, and of course, the chain was looped around one of them, so we had to put the engine back down, unbolt the manifold (no bolts broke!) and then refigure the chain. we tried pulling again, and it moved more, but was still getting hung up... I stuck my head under the truck, and realized that while unbolting the front driveshaft was important, popping it off the transfer case output yoke was also fairly important, once I pulled the front driveshaft, the engine, transmission, and transfer case came out relatively easily.

the bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission were so gunked up, that I decided to take it to the coin op car wash and blast everything off before further disassembly. then went back to the farm and tossed the transfer case in the back of the victim.

took about 2 days to get it pulled, and loaded in the back of the truck ready to go, I probably could have done it faster if I wasn't worried about making a giant mess, or destroying parts that I'd like to be able to use.

The crew chief on dad's farm was satisfied with my work, she also wanted that eyesore a step closer to leaving the farm.

[ericjon262]

I got the duramax chassis into the garage and started prepping the frame for the fish plates, I found these worked really well, for stripping the undercoating without gumming up, or removing base metal.


https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Bri ... GC8A&psc=1

The left the steel bare with an almost polished finish, I'm pretty impressed.



There're kinda expensive, but they seemed to work really well, I haven't tried any of the knock off brands yet, so the cheaper versions may be good enough to buy.

I'd like to get the new fuel tank in the Fiero this weekend, after I do that, I plan to start working on moving the rear spring hanger forward, and then making a jig to use for to aid in alignment of the the new, yet to be designed front spring hanger. the rear axle will have to move forward ~14 inches, which unfortunately means I'll probably have to put a small how in the frame to get a bolt or nut through/on the inside part of the hanger.

[ericjon262]

buy the cam, you deserve it...

bunch of parts on the way for the L31...

Cam
Springs
Retainers
timing set
shorty headers
24x wheel
timing cover
rocker studs
and a few gaskets I didn't already have. Most of it should be here tomorrow, I'm going to crack check the heads, and if necessary, lap the valves. I might go ahead and pull the heads off of the L31 so I can inspect the bores, if they look good, I won't mess with the bottom end, none of the spark plugs showed any signs of oil fowling,

I might also be picking up a really big deal part for this truck tomorrow if all goes well, but we'll have to see how that goes tomorrow.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The next step after welding the plates on, will be to move the rear axle forward, one of the considerations I need to keep in mind, is mounting the shocks, I'll have to fabricate a crossmember each, as one shock is mounted to the spare tire carrier, and one to a welded in crossmember. I've never given it much thought, is there a reason shocks on alive axle are mounted on opposite sides (front/rear) of the axle, and not both front or rear? I probably won't change it, because then I'll also have to rework the axle, but it's something I never thought about.

Why not just shorten the entire frame that amount, again?

Or splice on the back section of a square body frame?

[ericjon262]

The next step after welding the plates on, will be to move the rear axle forward, one of the considerations I need to keep in mind, is mounting the shocks, I'll have to fabricate a crossmember each, as one shock is mounted to the spare tire carrier, and one to a welded in crossmember. I've never given it much thought, is there a reason shocks on alive axle are mounted on opposite sides (front/rear) of the axle, and not both front or rear? I probably won't change it, because then I'll also have to rework the axle, but it's something I never thought about.

Why not just shorten the entire frame that amount, again?

Or splice on the back section of a square body frame?

the GMT800 chassis is much beefier than the squarebody chassis, I'd prefer to keep as much of it as I can.

by shortening the frame, and moving the axle, I maintain the correct overall frame length, and more or less replicate the profile of the stock squarebody frame.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

picked up the new hotness I alluded to in my last post!

#wonton



it's a K30 Dana 60, it was localish, and reasonably priced for what it is. I've been looking for a while, but I just couldn't find one close, I'll feel alot better about putting 35's on it this way. I'd like to assemble it with some good parts, and swap it in at the same time I do the 4L80e and doublers, that way i only need to make drivechafts once.

parts list...

doubler kit
https://www.offroaddesign.com/np203-np2 ... r-kit.html
32 spline 203 input
https://www.offroaddesign.com/32-spline ... -gear.html
lockers (ARB? Eaton?)
14bff GMT800 brakes
14bff shave kit
14bff 410 gears
4L80e rebuild kit
Dana 60 steer arms
SRW dana 60 hubs
GMT800 front brake conversion parts
Axle shafts?
driveshafts.

[ericjon262]

since I bought the Pig, the instrument lights have been temperamental at best, as if designed by "Lucas, the prince of darkness", they appeared to have about 3 settings, dim, flicker, and off. eventually, sometime before I drove it to Alaska, they stopped working altogether. it was frustrating, but I always had trouble finding a diagram to make sense of the issue, until recently, I came across factory service manuals for it! yesterday, I spent several hours digging through the diagrams, and couldn't find anything particularly useful, so I decided to go start digging, and also decided to take the dash apart to check the bulbs. I found a couple bad bulbs, but I still should have had some light, so something else was clearly afoot... then I found this:



This is the factory power connector for the OEM radio, note the wire colors, Yellow is IGN+, Gray is from the headlight switch for dimming the radio lights, and black is ground... note, the black wire is the only one still connected... uh, what? look at the radio I installed before I left for Alaska... the ground wire is hooked up to a gray wire, coming out of the same loom as the yellow IGN+ wire connected to the radio, that I assume went to the yellow wire on the OEM power connector, which is also in the same loom as the black wire, that's still in the OEM power connector... DOH. I'm not sure how this happened, but I have two ideas

1. Blame the PO. the previous owner had a ton of oddball wiring installed for an aftermarket cruise control setup, and a really crappy aftermarket radio, maybe he had wired it like that, and I never noticed the issue when I wired the new radio in.

2. when I was wiring in the new radio, I probed that connection for power and ground, because the lights weren't on, there was no power, and because there's a bunch of bulbs in parallel, the resistance to ground was minimal at best, and the meter toned that it was a good ground. then me either, not being able to easily see the wires under the dash cut the gray instead of the black and hooked it up, or said, I guess it doesn't matter and hooked it up to the gray just because... there may have been beer involved if I were the one to do it outright.

needless to say, the fuse was also blown, I don't remember if I had found that before or not, but after replacing it...




Boom! gauge lights work! YIPPIE! unfortunately, this is only one of the issues I was trying to trace down, for some reason, my check engine light doesn't work, I was hoping it was just a bad bulb, because that's a much easier fix than ripping the dash apart to get to the ECU, and the only connector(C135) anywhere in the circuit that isn't the bulb or cluster connector. I suspect that connector may have come undone, or somehow, the truck has been running flawlessly with a bad ECU ground? I mean, the radio worked without a real ground, so it's not impossible is it? unfortunately for me, the wiring diagrams for the older Squarebody trucks are absolutely terrible, surprisingly, Fiero's actually have much better documentation, even at the same level of manual. the only reason I suspect this is the case, is that Fiero's were one chassis, whereas the trucks could be a single cab truck, crew cab, short or long wheelbase, a suburban or blazer, have commercial or industrial options, ect. it's still a bit frustrating though.

since I'm going to need to take the dash apart to get to the suspect ECU connector, I'll probably go ahead an put my EBL flash in and set it up for the factory LO5 and leave it alone until I have the L31 ready to go in the truck.

also interestingly enough, there's three C135 connectors on the Squarebodies, one for the headlights, one off of the ECU on TBI trucks, and one for an idle kicker on the Diesels...

[ericjon262]

I didnt' get to digging out the C135, however, I did do the initial teardown of the L31.

FO BO MANE!



overall, it was pretty clean inside, no ring ridge. piston crowns were a little dirty. I did see these little spots down the bores of 2, 4, 5.



I've never seen spots like that before, a buddy's buddy said it was "hot spots from detonation" but I'm not sure I buy that, the spots are way deep down the bores, and it's not like this was some kind of high compression ragged edge engine, it was a stock truck engine. that said, it's not impossible to have knock at 9.6:1 compression, but I can't imagine GM letting something that susceptible to knock out the door as late as 1998, and coupling that with the engine being equipped, it seems a bit outlandish. I won't say it's impossible though. what I can say, is that what remained of the coolant in the block, was in fact just dirty water... since I didn't see signs of a blown head gasket anywhere, and I didn't see anything to suggest a leaky water pump, I'm very tempted to drop the engine at a machine shop for a crack check, and have it honed. I would really hate to put this together and find out the hard way it's no good.

when I bought the intake, I got a set of heads too, the heads appeared to be fresh from a machine shop, wrapped up nicely, very clean, with what appeared to be a fresh valve job. I decided to take a small gamble on them, and install my new springs and retainers on them, the valve seals also looked new.

[ericjon262]

I had a 454 TBI unit here at the house, so I decided to bore the intake for the larger 2" bores, I kinda wish I had bored them to something like 2.02 or so, that way there's no chance the intake will be smaller than the TB





I'm hoping to get the 350 torn down and deglazed, it would be awesome to have the engine fully assembled ready to drop in, but I don't think I'll have enough time before I need to go back to work.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The throttle opening is obstructed by the throttle shaft, even at WOT... The same diameter bore is not an obstruction

[ericjon262]

The throttle opening is obstructed by the throttle shaft, even at WOT... The same diameter bore is not an obstruction

dyno tests have shown that ports being stepped slightly smaller upstream make almost no difference in power, but stepped slightly smaller downstream can cause a not insignificant reduction in power.

it's also a TBI 350 for a Suburban. I'm definitely not setting it back up in the mill to redo it, but if I do something like this ever again, it's worth considering if nothing else, to make sure stacked tolerances don't' cause any overlap or mismatch, mismatch being the true concern, as the TBI is located with bolts and loose tolerances, so a ledge could exist in the top of the plenum which could cause turbulence and a reduction in airflow.