Real Fiero Tech

Can anyone describe what is required to fix the coolant temperature gauge wiring so the gauge doesn't peg when the key is turned to start? I have my dash apart and would like to fix it now instead of pulling things back apart later, but I can't seem to find what exactly needs to be changed...

Thanks-

Eric

Dammit... I did this and I'm pretty sure I posted it someplace, but now I can't find it.

I swapped C2 & D3 on the *CHASSIS* side of the C500 connector, then swapped the pins at the instrument panel end. Because they're on different connectors at opposite ends of the cluster, I had to lengthen the wires and run them back across each other. If I had felt like taking the dash out for better harness access, I could have done it seamlessly, but oh well.

I did all the mods on the chassis side so that I could wire any engine harness up the way the book shows and not have to remember to change it.

I keep a folder of schematics of the wiring modifications to my Fiero, to avoid having to rely on memory.

Minor changes I document by printing out the relevant schematic page, and then annotating it by hand.

For more major changes that are poorly described as a delta relative to stock, I simply create schematics from a blank sheet of paper.

For the temp gauge pegging fix, I followed the gafiero/fierosails guide to the letter, so that's what I printed and stored away in my wiring mods folder.

Why do people get so frustrated and want to change this? Why is the pegging issue such a big deal? I dont get it.

I dont mind it. It means my gauge isnt stuck

Because in some cases, like my own '88 the Storm Trooper, repeatedly hammering the needle against its stop over the service life of the gauge breaks the needle off.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help.