Group buy: Front Lower Spherical Bearing Shells

[The Dark Side of Will]

Will you be ordering a second run of these?

If not, let me know if you have anyone back out...

Did I miss some communication from you on this?

If enough people sign up (was 4 sets this time; I'd like to have a 5 set run to do this again) I'll do another run. Tell your friends!

No, "I" dropped the ball, got caught up with some issues on my swap, didn't check the forums enough (here or OE) and for some stupid reason I thought you had delayed for a month.

Put me down for a set please..

I'll add you to the next list!

[pmbrunelle]

Does the preload torque on the bearings change as a function of the different welds we see pictured? (if you tried that)

PS I just pinged you via email, to sort out shipping/payment details.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I checked the prototype set I installed in The Mule's rear control arms post-welding and the deltas were minimal. I haven't checked these yet, but I can this weekend.
The welds are offset axially from the precision bore, so the changes from welding shouldn't affect the precision bore much.

Email replied

[The Dark Side of Will]

More installation photos

[pmbrunelle]

Might be a bit easier to do the bearing insertion from the outside, as well as the snap-ring fiddle-fucking. Was the other orientation possible?

Anyway, I don't foresee any major issues; I'll be able to make it work as-is.

[The Dark Side of Will]

For the '84-'87 cars, both bushings are installed from the front. I designed the shoulders against which the spherical bearings seat to be forward so that they, rather than the snap rings, would take brake loads. The '88's (and '84-'87 rears) install one from each direction and it just happened that direction means installing the bearings from the inside. It's not a big deal at all... I'd call it a non-issue as installing the bearings is very easy no matter which way they go.

[pmbrunelle]

I designed the shoulders against which the spherical bearings seat to be forward so that they, rather than the snap rings, would take brake loads.

That's a good reason.

[pmbrunelle]

After $114.67 of sales tax and a $9.95 handling fee, I got the goodies!

So with the tool, it is obvious that it pushes on the outer race of the bearing, so the bearing can be installed. Since the tool is small enough to pass through the hole in the shell, it can also be used for non-destructive removal, which I need to do between initial tacking/fitting and final welding.

IMG_5698.JPG (93.49 KiB) Viewed 2655 times

Now this side of the tool is a bit of a mystery... I'm not really sure what to do with this.

IMG_5699.JPG (95.92 KiB) Viewed 2655 times

No need to tell me the answer to the puzzle right away, though the spacer does fit inside

[pmbrunelle]

***Another observation***

Spherical bearings were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Shells were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Should I use bearing 9 with shell 9, bearing 10 with shell 10, and so on?

Or, are the number series independent of each other?

[ericjon262]

***Another observation***

Spherical bearings were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Shells were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Should I use bearing 9 with shell 9, bearing 10 with shell 10, and so on?

Or, are the number series independent of each other?

I got 13-16, in the same manner. does it matter? if it does I'll stamp the control arms before I weld them to make sure everything jives.

[The Dark Side of Will]

After $114.67 of sales tax and a $9.95 handling fee, I got the goodies!

So with the tool, it is obvious that it pushes on the outer race of the bearing, so the bearing can be installed. Since the tool is small enough to pass through the hole in the shell, it can also be used for non-destructive removal, which I need to do between initial tacking/fitting and final welding.

IMG_5698.JPG

That is correct

Now this side of the tool is a bit of a mystery... I'm not really sure what to do with this.

IMG_5699.JPG

No need to tell me the answer to the puzzle right away, though the spacer does fit inside

That feature is there so that a user, depending on access and whatever other circumstances, can drive the tool reliably with a large punch or 3/8" extension conscripted into duty as a punch.

[The Dark Side of Will]

***Another observation***

Spherical bearings were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Shells were numbered:
9, 10, 11, 12

Should I use bearing 9 with shell 9, bearing 10 with shell 10, and so on?

Or, are the number series independent of each other?

I got 13-16, in the same manner. does it matter? if it does I'll stamp the control arms before I weld them to make sure everything jives.

Those were just for QA purposes... there's no preferential fit.

[ericjon262]

I'm going to hang onto the control arms that will be removed from my car, and use them for development of a coilover for my car, so I'll need another set of these when that time comes. if you're planning another run, mark me down for a set of 84-87 front LCA bearings/shells.

Food for thought, if the hole in the back of the install tool went all the way through, a bolt could pass through, and a plate with a nut could be used to very easily press the bearing in/out. I think this might make assembly slightly easier, not that it's hard with the provided tool and a vice.

[draven]

I'm still down for a set of the second run when it happens...

[The Dark Side of Will]

I'm still down for a set of the second run when it happens...

Dammit, what's your Old Europe name again?
I might also be able to talk Iain over there into a set if I can get it to him cost-effectively
Could be three sets?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Food for thought, if the hole in the back of the install tool went all the way through, a bolt could pass through, and a plate with a nut could be used to very easily press the bearing in/out. I think this might make assembly slightly easier, not that it's hard with the provided tool and a vice.

Interdasting idea... A laser cut plate would be easy enough, and the setup could work for both installation and removal.
McSmasher probably has a big enough fender washer to make that work without me having to make anything else.

ETA: https://www.mcmaster.com/94630A114/

[CaptainHindsight]

Any idea how many miles these are lasting on the street?

I'm machining a set of delrin bushings for the control arms for a DD. Only costing me some time since i had everything in stock.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I'm still down for a set of the second run when it happens...

I guess I need to start advertising again on Old Europe.

Any idea how many miles these are lasting on the street?

I'm machining a set of delrin bushings for the control arms for a DD. Only costing me some time since i had everything in stock.

I did that in the late '90's/early '00's on an old lathe in the basement of the physics building at school. The bushings wore out and the only way to replace them was to spend more time in front of a lathe making a new set. I could have used some shelf bushings from McSmasher and designed/machined the steel parts to adapt them for use in control arm pivots... but that's the same amount of work as adapting spherical bearings to control arm pivots.

[CaptainHindsight]

Ok so I'll make a CNC run of them for a few $$ ea. I'll post the files online for anyone else to run them when they need more.

Edit: I forgot ask what thickness Delrin did you use (ID vs OD) that it wore out so quickly? I've been using them for decades without issues. They don't need to be lubed from time to time like spherical bearings. Yours should be able to last longed if you put seals on them to keep the water and dirt out.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I cut them to whatever OD pressed into the original bushing shells. The plastic turned with the control arm. I used 3/4" drill rod as the center sleeve. The control arm pivot bolt camped that and it stayed fixed to the body.

Are your applications putting spring loads on the delrin?

Teflon lined spherical bearings don't need greasing either.

Got pics of your setup? Start a new thread if you want.