Odds of both relays being bad?

General Fiero Maintenance including oil changes, air filters, suspension refreshes, restorations, painting, etc.

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Aaron
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Post by Aaron »

Hmm... Could have sworn I suggested checking that...
You did, but I had other issues to work through first.
You can just get rid of the fusible link. The 4 cylinder DIS Fieros don't have it. As long as the wire feeding the DIS is 16ga or bigger, you ought to be fine. You should be able to get new C500 pins from CarQuest or Napa. i wouldn't expect AutoZone or Advance to carry them. Just cut the fusible link out and crimp the pin on the new end of the wire and reinsert into the C500 connector.
We were kinda confused about that, becuase Steven's 88 2.5l car didn't have it. I think I am just going to cut the fusible link and the rest of the wire out, then just splice a new wire in its place and runt hat to the DIS.
I'm confused. Fixing it right would involve NOT saying "oh well" about the ALDL circuit not working...
Well we're pretty sure I burnt out a wire somewhere. And since I have an extra relay anyways, that circuit is pretty useless to me. If I find where it's at, I'll fix it, but finding it won't be easy.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

You do know how to use the continuity function of a multi-meter, right?
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Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:You can just get rid of the fusible link. The 4 cylinder DIS Fieros don't have it.
Well that explains why they use an 8 gauge wire on the duke for what will never carry that much current.. and only a 16ga on the Lumina! Lumina is fused..
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I was rather amused by that as well. The Cadillac DIS has twice as many coils to fire, but is fed by a wire half as big.

The Run/Bulb/Start position on the IGN switch is protected by fusible link A, although that's designed for a much larger current draw than that at which the ignition is likely to fail, and necessitating the 8ga wire feeding the DIS.
Anyway, if you're worried about it, install an inline fuse holder between C500 and the DIS.
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Post by Aaron »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:You do know how to use the continuity function of a multi-meter, right?
Yes, that's why I said 2 posts ago that I tested continuity of another circuit. But when you don't know where the other side runs to, it's hard to test it huh?
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

If you had a manual, you could look it up.

What do you mean you don't know where it goes? If powers the fuel pump. If goes from the ALDL connection to the oil pressure switch to the relay (all of which a bit of thinking would have told you). It also goes through C203-L on its way to the fuel pump connector, which is C502.
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Post by Aaron »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:If you had a manual, you could look it up.
$20 in Steven's bank account is cheaper than a manual I can't read anyways. Amd if all else fails, I can just ask here :thumbleft:
What do you mean you don't know where it goes? If powers the fuel pump. If goes from the ALDL connection to the oil pressure switch to the relay (all of which a bit of thinking would have told you). It also goes through C203-L on its way to the fuel pump connector, which is C502.
Thanks I know it powers the fuel pump. I didn't think it went to the OP unit or the relay, I thought it bypassed everything.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

The relay and oil pressure unit both power the fuel pump as well. Since all three sources connect to the same loation (C203-L), then they all have to show continuity to each other.
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Post by Aaron »

Great I'll go check that, thanks a lot Will!

Reading this is a lot easier than reading those damn schematics. And I'm halfway through an egnineering degree!!!
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Post by Series8217 »

Aaron wrote:And I'm halfway through an egnineering degree!!!
Firefighting != engineering
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I was going to say that I hope it's not electrical engineering. :scratch: :thumbleft:
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Post by Aaron »

Series8217 wrote:
Aaron wrote:And I'm halfway through an egnineering degree!!!
Firefighting != engineering
Fire Protection and Safety Technology, and it is part of our engineering college and the degree is an engineering degree, just based on Fire prot/safety, much like EE is based off electrical, ME is mechanical, etc.

I'm DEFINATELY no EE.
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Post by Mach10 »

I haven't even finished my Physical Anthropology degree and I can read a schematic... :scratch:
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Post by Aaron »

I took my FP relay out of the plastic cover, and it does not look like the pinout that Steven showed, it doesn't show anything at all besides the relay's internals. The pins are exactly like the one I showed above. Does anyone have a pinout of this style?

I got the car to start again, I had forgotten I took out the fuse to put it back in the Z34 (I had borrowed a 20a cuz I ran out). So it didn't have a fuse, but now it does, and I started it up again.
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Post by Series8217 »

Aaron wrote:it does not look like the pinout that Steven showed
:scratch: what pinout? I never posted one.. can you link to it here so we can see?
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Post by Aaron »

Sorry, your build thread, but Erik posted the pic:

Image

I got the coolant lines on today, and am attempting to fill them, and will be adding/bleeding clutch and brakes.
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Post by MNFatz »

Sort it out by the harness.

green/white stripe= +12 volt trip wire. This used to go to the ecm, but can go to any switched 12 volt source to turn the relay on/off.

black=ground.

orange/black = +12 volt constant power source (in).

tan/white=+12 volt to the fuel pump (out)

When you give the green/white wire 12 volts:

Black is one half of the circuit, the orange/black connects the circuit to the tan/white wire sending 12 volts to the fuel pump.

When you use the ALDL to power the fuel pump, you're jumping around the relay and giving 12 volts straight to the pump.
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Post by Aaron »

Ok that helps.

Do you by chance know which pin is for which wire though?

Thanks
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Post by MNFatz »

No idea. I've never seen that pattern before.

Look at it this way.

Without the relay:
Touch the tan wire and orange/black wire together and your fuel pump spins.

With the relay:
Give the green/white wire 12 volts and it mechanically touches those two wires together for you.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

BTFM!!!!!111won!!!
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