1) My center consol is torn apart, but there are 4 wires coming out of it. 2 go into a small, circular, black plug, one wire is brown the other black. The other 2 wires just have a single plug on each, one is red, the other is black.
Here is a pic. The clear connector has a red wire to it, black connector has the black wire, the the lowest, cylindrical black connector has a brown and black wire to it.
Do all 4 of these go to the cig lighter? Which one should I get the 12v power from?
2) Where is the ALDL connector? I thought it'd be under the dash like it is on the Lumina, but I can't see it...
Thanks!
Last edited by Aaron on Mon May 08, 2006 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ok I found the ALDL, it was hanging there. The G spot is there, and has a wire from it, so that's good.
I tested the red/black wires witht he single connector mentioned above. There is a steady 13.4 volts going through it, so I am going to run a wire from the red to the G pin.
I ran a wire from the clear connector/red wire (13.4v) to the G pin ALDL, which if I understand this correctly should trigger my fuel pump when I turn the ignition on. It did not, car was silent.
I then ran a wire from the A pin ALDL straight to the G pin ALDL, which again if I understand this should trigger my fuel pump when the ignition is on. It did not, car was again silent.
the A pin is just a ground - it won't activate anything
use a meter to test the red wire to the ground for current - (think you said you did this) if it has power and the pump isn't running then the pump is bad or the wiring tot he pump is bad
Kohburn wrote:the A pin is just a ground - it won't activate anything
use a meter to test the red wire to the ground for current - (think you said you did this) if it has power and the pump isn't running then the pump is bad or the wiring tot he pump is bad
I did test it, came to a steady 13.4v.
So either pump or wiring. This will be a pain to find, but at least I know where the problem is, and why it won't start.
I don't know whether or not I trust his wiring. I also don't know how to test the wiring to the pump. I'm going to look up the DOHCfiero.com stuff and see where the wires should be going, and make sure he has that all right. If that fails, then I guess I'll replace the fuel pump.
pull the tank - test the pump with 12v atht he pump.. if thats a go then use a meter on the wiring from the fuel pump to the relay and the oil sender switch
Kohburn wrote:pull the tank - test the pump with 12v atht he pump.. if thats a go then use a meter on the wiring from the fuel pump to the relay and the oil sender switch
easy work - just time consuming
I didn't want to pull the tank yet, but that is probably the better option.
I guess I'll do that now...Give me a few hours though...
Get taller jackstands. As long as there's less than 1/2 tank of gas and you have a deep socket impact wrench, it's a 1-person 20 minute job to drop the tank. Including wrestling the connectors off the front (which suck worse than any other part of the job, btw) :scratch:
"Oh, this is too good. She thinks you're a servant... Cause you're black! This is greatest moment in my miserable life... Sooo-ey! I LOVE RACISM!"
connectors off the front? you mean the hoses off the back? thats the worst part ever!!! (actually getting them back on while holding the tank half way in the air is worse)
but dropping the tank really is only about a 30 minute job - not bad really.
Mach10 wrote:As long as some inconsiderate bastard hasn't twisted the hose-clamps so you can't get a wrench or screwdriver on 'em from right underneath.
thats why its almways easier the second time.. that and sometimes the tubes are practicaly glued to the metal
chock the front wheels and get the back end up in the air - jack from the front of the engine cradle or the frame rails just infront of the craddle and put your tall jack stands on the craddle next to the wheels
or you can drive onto ramps them jack the other end up.. this way gives tons of room to work
No idea. On the 84-87s, I just put a couple of stands under the cross-member in the front, with the lip of the beam in the dimples of the stands, so the car can pivot on it as you raise the rear.
I pick up the rear with a shop-crane tied to both strut towers.
Eventually I'll make a proper brace, but for now the cosmetic damage of a little dimple in the strut bolt hole from the chain hook is negligeable.
I'll usually get the rear wheels a good foot off the floor, and put the rear stands just forward of the front cradle mount points.
Alternatively, you could just back the bastard onto ramps (good luck if it's lowered) and just pick up the front for easy access.
"Oh, this is too good. She thinks you're a servant... Cause you're black! This is greatest moment in my miserable life... Sooo-ey! I LOVE RACISM!"
I got the rear end up fine, but I don't want to hurt the front.
I'm using a floor jack, but I don't know where to put it for the front end of the car. The part where the two coolant tubes turn and head towards each other, there is a metal bracket thing that runs around them in the very center of the car. Can I jack from here?
To be honest, I haven't seen the 88 front suspension. I've seen the control arms etc separated, and I seen enough to know that the crossmember is drilled and shaped a little different.
But it IS still there. Its in-line with the wheels. You can't really jack ahead of that, as there really isn't anything TO the car after the front crossmember.
Find the beam that runs crosswise to the car. It's what the suspension and everything bolts to. Jack the middle of that (it'll be slow until the car's high enough to get any kind of throw on the jack-handle. I just use a ratchet inserted into the jack's little pump lever and work it until I have enough room to work with the bar.
You don't want to jack on the rad support. It'll buckle.
"Oh, this is too good. She thinks you're a servant... Cause you're black! This is greatest moment in my miserable life... Sooo-ey! I LOVE RACISM!"
