Just Bought my first Fiero and not starting :(
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
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- Peer Mediator
- Posts: 15630
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:13 pm
- Location: In the darkness, where fear and knowing are one
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Well the distributor has been disassmbled and brought into the house. Here are a few of the pics.
Shaft being removed from the housing.
Shaft removed & magnet still attached with cover on.
Cover removed from magnet with old coil exposed.
New coil installed.
Tomorrow it will be reinstalled along with the new Ignition Module, Rotor, and Cap. We will see what happens.
Shaft being removed from the housing.
Shaft removed & magnet still attached with cover on.
Cover removed from magnet with old coil exposed.
New coil installed.
Tomorrow it will be reinstalled along with the new Ignition Module, Rotor, and Cap. We will see what happens.
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- Peer Mediator
- Posts: 15630
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:13 pm
- Location: In the darkness, where fear and knowing are one
- Contact:
No, it's good advice; you just don't know what you're talking about. Case in point: how long it took you to get your aluminum BA running. For the rest of us it's a 2 hour job. For you, months IIRC.p8ntman442 wrote:thats just bad advice. plain and simple. Also we all knoow of dougs write up, and should be better at helping people than we are.whipped wrote:I didn't even blink here.MNFatz wrote:Ignition module. 99 times out of 100 that's the culprit on these things.
They're cheap, they always break, and he's mostly eliminated fuel as a problem.
The guy needs GOOD advice to get his car running; please don't use the forum as a place to prop up your...shortcomings.
Dajinn wrote:Well the distributor has been disassmbled and brought into the house. Here are a few of the pics.
Shaft being removed from the housing.
Shaft removed & magnet still attached with cover on.
Cover removed from magnet with old coil exposed.
New coil installed.
Tomorrow it will be reinstalled along with the new Ignition Module, Rotor, and Cap. We will see what happens.
Great pics. Don't forget to use heat conducting grease on the new ignition module. CPU grease works great if you've got some around.
Remember folks, whenver your engine won't start, it's ALWAYS the ignition module. No use in even checking, becuase he didn't even have to blink.
However my car won't start half the time, and is hard to start the other half, yet has a brand new ignition module. Hmmm, maybe it isn't the module :dontknow:
However my car won't start half the time, and is hard to start the other half, yet has a brand new ignition module. Hmmm, maybe it isn't the module :dontknow:
- Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
- Posts: 5981
- Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Whenever I have a starting/idling/running problem that could be spark related and I'm overdue for a tuneup... I do the tuneup before checking anything else. If that solves it: DONE! Otherwise I will check for other problems. Tune up needs to be done anyway so do it first then if ot doesn't fix anything spend your time looking elsewhere for the problem.. at least you'll know its not compounded by bad plugs/wires/cap/rotor/etc which can make it hard to diagnose these sorts of troubles..p8ntman442 wrote:thats just bad advice. plain and simple. Also we all knoow of dougs write up, and should be better at helping people than we are.whipped wrote:I didn't even blink here.MNFatz wrote:Ignition module. 99 times out of 100 that's the culprit on these things.
They're cheap, they always break, and he's mostly eliminated fuel as a problem.
For a 2.8 it sounds like this is one of those things that goes bad alot and you'll need one soon anyway (especially if its the original one). Call it part of the tuneup!
I know.. It's 2:30am here and I'm impatient. lol I ended up driving to the parking lot where my car is about 40 min ago. Reinstalled the Distributor and tried to jump it with the Bimmer. Still nothing. I did smell gas pretty strong so I held the pedal to the floor while cranking in case it was flooded but no luck. I guess I'll head back with my wife in the morning to test for spark. Can I pickup a spark plug and attach it to the end of a boot to visually determine if it is getting a spark? I have tried the whole holding the boot to a ground but I never know if it's close enough or if it is a good enough ground to cause a spark.
No it wasn't the Ignition module however now I know it won't be the ignition module any time soon either.Aaron wrote:So it wasn't the ignition module.
Good thing you blindly spent however much it was though.
Diagnose, then fix. Have you checked for any SES codes?
Fuses are all good, first thing I checked. As for the codes, I will lookup how to get them right now.
**edit
Okay I see I will need a scanner in order to pull the codes. Not as simple as looking at a blinking light on some cars. Before I go out and start dumping money again will this work okay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... _Stores_IT
I have seen links online on how to make one from Radio Shack parts but unfortunatly I am not very good at reading wiring diagrams. I really can't comprehend how to assemble it.
- Shaun41178(2)
- Posts: 8373
- Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:12 pm
- Location: Ben Phelps is an alleged scammer
First you need to diagnose what the problem is.
When you go to start it, look at the tach. If the tach moves off of zero and rumbles around 2-300 rpm, then you are getting spark, which eliminates the spark issue. Now you know its getting spark, but you don't know if its getting blown out or not in the chamber.
Next thing check spark at the plug. YOu should have a nice blue spark.
Make sure you have fuel in the tank. Your gauge could be wrong so put a gallon or 4 litres or something and try again.
I had a no start condition once. I had both fuel and spark so I was stumped. It ended up being my plugs. I swapped out the plugs and it fired right up. I think they got fouled and then wouldnt' fire under compression. New plugs fixed it and it fired right up.
I suggest you follow these steps.
When you go to start it, look at the tach. If the tach moves off of zero and rumbles around 2-300 rpm, then you are getting spark, which eliminates the spark issue. Now you know its getting spark, but you don't know if its getting blown out or not in the chamber.
Next thing check spark at the plug. YOu should have a nice blue spark.
Make sure you have fuel in the tank. Your gauge could be wrong so put a gallon or 4 litres or something and try again.
I had a no start condition once. I had both fuel and spark so I was stumped. It ended up being my plugs. I swapped out the plugs and it fired right up. I think they got fouled and then wouldnt' fire under compression. New plugs fixed it and it fired right up.
I suggest you follow these steps.
That'll work fine. Put in a spare spark plug and position it so it's laying just a few millimeters from something metal on the chassis. Try the plug on the end of the coil wire going to the center of the distributor as well.Dajinn wrote:I know.. It's 2:30am here and I'm impatient. lol I ended up driving to the parking lot where my car is about 40 min ago. Reinstalled the Distributor and tried to jump it with the Bimmer. Still nothing. I did smell gas pretty strong so I held the pedal to the floor while cranking in case it was flooded but no luck. I guess I'll head back with my wife in the morning to test for spark. Can I pickup a spark plug and attach it to the end of a boot to visually determine if it is getting a spark? I have tried the whole holding the boot to a ground but I never know if it's close enough or if it is a good enough ground to cause a spark.
I doubt timing is an issue if it won't even fire with starter fluid. You should at least be getting a backfire if there's spark somewhere.