Real Fiero Tech

That's because the car is a pile of shit. Fieros handle much better and don't have oil starvation issues. It's because they were born and bread to be race cars.

crzyone wrote:No heavy crank throws to accelerate. Less material at the outside edge, less MOI.

That's my point. For a given bobweight, the dual counterweights will be smaller in diameter than the single and thus have a lower MOI. The crank overall will be heavier, but the MOI will be lower.

Standard crank


Full counter


Impossible to speculate which one has a lower MOI. I'm going to go out on a limb and say a 600+ hp motor isn't going to notice much of a difference.

Parts slowly starting to roll in. Tires arrived today. Thanks UPS for leaving $1700 worth of tires outside my door...

RE-11 265/35R18. Finally some decent tires. Now I just need other excuses to be slow.

Death Proof.




I think all my pictures will be taken with my go pro from now on. I love the fish eye / wide angle look




Drilled and tapped my new intake for my Aquamist multi-port water meth injection kit. Nothing like drilling into a new part...





Going to loctite these in to make sure they seal well. The injectors come with stainless fittings to screw them into so you don't gall up the aluminum threads.



Just love this camera!


Last but not least, put a TV in my gagage and blu-ray player. Much more fun to watch F&F while I work on my car lol...

Looking good Levi!

The RB26 has stock ITBs right? So that plenum just directs air to the ITBs like on an m3? Is there much of a gain to be had from an intake manifold on an RB?

There is a factory flaw in the stock intake. The shape of it rams more air down #6 then the rest of the cylinders creating a lean condition. 90% of GTRs with a cylinder with low compression is #6.

The Greddy, Nismo and other intake manifolds correct this problem and flow a bit more air. This one has shorter runners for more top end power. My GTR makes full boost from 4000-8000rpm so high end power is what I'm after anyways.

Another benefit of this intake is the 2 piece design. I'm hoping it makes taking the intake on and off while in the car easier.

Fucking love that camera!

It's badass. I need the view screen add on so I can see what I'm taking a picture of. It's a point and guess right now. Looking forward to filming some racing vids as soon as my car is back in one piece.

crzyone wrote:It's a point and guess right now.

Spray and pray, like an AK-47

crzyone wrote:Looking forward to filming some racing vids as soon as my car is back in one piece.

Yeah, me too

I gotta pick up a Go-Pro soon.

Car is looking better everytime I see it, but after looking at those head off engine bay pics, damn am I glad I don't have to work on it!

Talking the head off while the engine is in the engine bay is probably the hardest automotive thing i've ever done. Swapping out an entire RX7 drivetrain is easier.

I think when I get the head back I'll pull the bottom end out and assemble it outside the car. Don't have grey hair and don't want any.

I guess the radiator header panel/core support doesn't unbolt like it does on BMW's...

Most VWs but only a few Mercedes will do that, its probably the only thing I like about my Mk2 VW

One thing I would have done differently had I known.. Pull out the head studs while the head is still on the block. I didn't know they had allen key tops on them to thread them out of the block. Pulling the head straight up with the exhaust manifolds still bolted on was super tight. I have an aftermarket head drain line that is attached to the back of the head which gave up valuable room between the head and the firewall. Not to mention I had to massage the metal oil and coolant lines to the turbos out of the way......

So, fingers crossed, hopefully the lines don't leak. If I do install the head while the block is in the car I will set it where it needs to be and then thread my head studs into the block with an allen key.

Tried calling the shop that has my head yesterday. Apparently they are now booking phone calls in advance. Soonest he could call me is on Wednesday at 5pm... what a load of shit.

I dropped off the head March 20th. E-mailed him on April 8th looking for an update, said it would be 2-3 weeks... and now it's June 5th... So I'm not happy it's taking so long. Summers up here are not that long and I'm anxious to get my car back on the road.

Sounds like a lot of Canadian "JDM" shops are a bunch of bullshitters.

3 Months later I got my head back and started wrenching on the car. I'm furthur along then this but I can finally start making some updates. Dyno appointment on the 13th to tune the Vipec and then it should be good to go

Do blue hoses decease parasitic pumping losses?

Meh, wanted push loc hoses and they only come in black and blue. Blue is easier to see when the body work is on. Nobody sees my engine bay anyways. As for the rad hose, came with the car.

Surfing Summit's website, looks like they offer hose clamps for these style hoses. Maybe people have experienced the hoses poping off the fittings. Thinking I should be prudent and put some clamps on my hoses. That or carry a 30lb dry chemical fire extinguisher....

If you have a lot of money and effort in your car, I can't see not carrying a fire extinguisher... It's just soooo cheap compared to the potential loss. I'll definitely have one in the Stupid Ferrari.

Are you using push-loc for fuel hoses? Is it rated for fuel? I don't remember if I used it in the initial incarnation of The Mule's fuel system or not.