Some N* questions

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 3:30 am

I will be picking up a 03 caddy STS N* this week and have a few general engine swap questions.

First, I plan on using an aftermarket PCM to run this motor, I was wondering if the 03s had VVT? I believe chrfab sells computers to run any N*, I'm just wondering which one this is.

Second, my GT is a 4 speed and I was wondering whats involved in switching over to a 5 speed? I will get a getrag from a fwd car and Rodney's kit. As far as I know I will need 5 speed shifter cables and shifter, is there anything else that I would need? Can isuzu 5 speed shifter cables and shifter be used on a getrag transmission? They would be much easier to find locally. I imagine I would also need a getrag slave cylinder?

I plan on getting spec's aluminum flywheel with a N* bolt pattern, but is it possible to use a cast iron flywheel? I imagine people just get them plugged and re-drilled correct? Did that to my 4.9 flywheel, didn't exactly feel safe and I will be getting a lot more rpm from the N*.

Thats all the questions I have for now until I pick up my motor.

Thanks
Levi

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 12:52 pm

the first thing you should do is fucking decide just which route you are going to take with your car.

You change it every five minutes. :blah5:

:scratch:

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:35 pm

I know... I took my ps pump off my 3.4 yesterday and discovered the ps mounting point completely broken off. This I assume is from mounting the dog bone to the engine lift point which also attaches to the ps pump bracket.... So I got fed up and said I would take the N*.

An entire 03 STS K member with trani and engine for $1000 is too good an offer to pass up

So, this is the route I will be taking. For now.. I think

Unsafe At Any Speed · Post by **Unsafe At Any Speed** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:25 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:the first thing you should do is fucking decide just which route you are going to take with your car.

You change it every five minutes. :blah5:

:scratch:

Next thing you know, he'll be throwing a roof wing on.

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 12:13 am

I was going to do a N* swap anyways, I had one before but the delivery truck that was transporting it was hit by a semi. The accident rolled the delivery truck and my motor went rolling down a hill. Thats when I decided to just play with what I have.

I said to the seller if they get another N*, tell me and I'll buy it. I'm just glad they had one available before I started putting thousands into a turbo 3.4

N* has always been my favorite motor for a fiero, they are just normally cost prohibitive. I would not pay $4k for a used miled out motor which is what most yards around here are asking. $1000 for a complete drivetrain from a 03 STS is perfect.

I will never own a roof wing, but I am partial to chop tops. :thumbleft:

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:04 am

Your thread on fagland got decent info on it.

Controlling the roller cam engines is different than controlling the flat tappet engines because of the crank sensor and coil per cylinder arrangement.

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Thu Mar 10, 2005 11:43 pm

Will, you have true duals on your N* correct? Do you run any kind of crossover? How does it sound?

In this pic of my motor you can see 2 separate pipes, I was just thinking of putting some 2.5" mandrels and 2 mufflers and running true dual exhaust. I have the bottom of my trunk cut out so I have some room to play with.

Thanks!

The Dark Side of Will · Thu Mar 10, 2005 11:54 pm

Yeah, true duals, no crossover.

Sounds like this: http://will.saturnet.net/pictures/FIEROvs300ZX.wmv

Future plans include equal length headers and X-pipe.

V8Archie · Post by **V8Archie** » Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:38 am

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:38 am

Thanks will, it sounds pretty good. Can't hardly hear the 300ZX that you were racing. Someday I would like to have headers but I think this swap will cost enough for now. After I get it in and running for awhile I may look into it. Looks like the computer to run my motor will end up costing $2500US, ouch.

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:01 pm

Will, got another question. I'm trying to separate the auto trani from the N*. I have 4 bolts off on the bellhousing, the 2 top ones and the 2 bottom ones. The transmission will not separate from the engine but I can't see any other bolts holding it on. The water log looks like it attaches where the 2 middle bolts should be...

Have any pictures of the bellhousing on your N*? Its going to be something obvious I'm sure.

Thanks!

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:29 pm

There's a bracket on the bottom that connects the bottom of the trans to the engine oil pan.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:34 pm

crzyone wrote:Looks like the computer to run my motor will end up costing $2500US, ouch.

PM sent.

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 9:06 pm

sweet motor. Even sweeter price. I guess you can't use the 7730 like I am because it's so different? Come on Will! We can figure this computer out!! :cheers:

okay, i'll :stfu: now.

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 9:26 pm

Thanks Will, I will go take a look. PM sent back

Thanks, it is a nice motor, clean looking. I like the coil per cylinder setup. The price was definitly right.

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 1:42 pm

Since this is the thread of N* questions, I have a couple.

What do you use for the oil pressure sender? stock fiero one?

Going with the 7730 ecm, I don't need the MAF, right, since it's speed density? Should I remove it? Just ignore it and hook the filter and intake to it?

Did you have to notch the right side decklid hinge at all? I think it comes real close. Haven't checked fully, but it would be nice to get started on that if I have to.

The Dark Side of Will · Mon Mar 28, 2005 2:44 pm

The Caddy oil pressure sender won't drive a gauge. Use an Aurora sender... it has the same electrical connector and threads as the Caddy sender but should drive a gauge.

MAF is un necessary. Do whatever you want with it. If you leave the housing on, remove the sensor so that it's not obstructing airflow.

Right side decklid hinge does need to be notched, as does the dogbone mount at the rear of the engine compartment. If you have an '88, you'll also have to take a chunk out of the right strut tower.