Real Fiero Tech

I was expecting more on 5-6 psi. I think its funny V8Archie says this is the fastest car he has ever been in.

It would make the car quick, I think the overall numbers are low. I mean a 350 did 230 whp with no booost. Shouldnt' the 383 flow more air and the lt1 heads be better?

Dude needs a boost controller too because whatever he is using sucks.

There's a certain 279ci that put down 300whp NA over yonder...

:la:

I dont' know anyone that hit 300 whp, but I saw this one, and he posted the vid a while ago. Unless its the same guy with better tune on it?

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/fie ... 60e16b.htm

either way I still think its funny that a NA 4.6 n star makes almost as much power as a built 383 LT1 6.4 liter motor with a freaking turbo too.

Replacement for displacement? Its called Teh Teknolojie

Yeah, same guy with some dyno tuning made 300.5rwhp and 312rwtq:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9FTO6f-4_o

can't find the dyno sheet..... I'm lookin for it

Turbo 383 LT1? What thread is that from?

And it doesn't even crack 300 whp? That's ridiculous. No wonder no one takes Fieros seriously. It takes a special kind of incompetence to screw up that badly. A heads/cam 350 cid LT1 should make that power.

bone stock LS1's make that

TURBO POWA... NOTHING BEATZ TEH T3 TURBO NOTHING!@!!

Not in Fieros they don't.

people always forget that torque is what breaks stuff.. HP is just a factor of torque and rpm. thats why you can have a low torque high HP car not breaking stuff but have a high torque low hp v8 snapping things all the time and making them think they can never have a faster car than what they are driving

I dont think people forget that, I think its that they dont know how to choose a motor, or build it properly to suit their goals. Not everyone is born with the same talents or abilities, so some people are stuck with a haynes manual and a torque wrench and thats as far as they are going performance wise.

Kohburn wrote:people always forget that torque is what breaks stuff.. HP is just a factor of torque and rpm. thats why you can have a low torque high HP car not breaking stuff but have a high torque low hp v8 snapping things all the time and making them think they can never have a faster car than what they are driving

I don't think people are snapping input shafts.......

After a the first few gear sets, it's the hp that tears things apart. :la:

whipped wrote: After a the first few gear sets, it's the hp that tears things apart. :la:

How do you figure?


If you don't snap axels, CVs or gears within the first few seconds of a drag race its very unlikely you will break anything from a roll.

whipped wrote:

Kohburn wrote:people always forget that torque is what breaks stuff.. HP is just a factor of torque and rpm. thats why you can have a low torque high HP car not breaking stuff but have a high torque low hp v8 snapping things all the time and making them think they can never have a faster car than what they are driving

I don't think people are snapping input shafts.......

After a the first few gear sets, it's the hp that tears things apart. :la:

HP doesn't break shit. HP is just torque over time.
if someone breaks something after 3rd gear then it most likely failed off the line but didn't come completely apart till later. (differential spyder gears sometimes failing this way.)

For 2 cars to be equal in acceleration they have to put the same amount of torque to the ground.

You can do this with a torque monster, or a hp monster with lots of gear reduction. Either way you still ahve the same amount of torque going to the ground, through the diff, stressing the transmission case, gears, etc...

a 600hp 100ft-lb fiero will still snap axles

Torque spikes due to shock loading are more likely to kill a transmission than engine output. How fast does that flywheel spin down from launch RPM when you drop the hammer? That's what kills transmissions. Ever seen a chassis dyno graph for an automatic car, especially one with a built auto? Torque spikes on the shifts can be 100 ftlbs more than engine output... and that's with a torque convertor to cushion the shockload.

High HP/low TQ cars break things too, just different things. High RPM chews up synchros.

You are correct, but only if you could choose your gear ratios. Most SBC swaps have a lot of rotating mass, in the engine and a huge heavy flywheel. Any kind of a clutch dump from a sbc is asking for a trani grenade.

An aluminum flywheel and light weight clutch would go a long way to preserving a transmission.

I read on the Tilton website that an SBC flex plate has the same MOI as an SBC crankshaft.

I think a good swap could be done with an 11/16" thick adapter plate with a Fiero style flywheel that simply has the SBC crank flange pattern in it. A Cadillac Northstar starter could be used and attach directly to the adapter plate.

whipped wrote:For 2 cars to be equal in acceleration they have to put the same amount of torque to the ground.

You can do this with a torque monster, or a hp monster with lots of gear reduction. Either way you still ahve the same amount of torque going to the ground, through the diff, stressing the transmission case, gears, etc...

IF you can get the proper gear reduction..

a 600hp 100ft-lb fiero will still snap axles

No it won't, because you'll NEVER find a transmission with enough gear reduction to make that motor put more torque to the ground than a duke does. Instead you just get to hang in 1st gear until over 190 mph (600 hp, 100 ft lbs requires 100 ft lbs of torque at over 30,000 rpm...). So you'd be pretty slow off the line with your crappy torque, but while everyone else is having to shift and having their torque at the wheels drop off, yours remains constant (assuming a flat torque curve).. so in a race to 200 mph or so, you'll win against anyone with less HP regardless of their torque.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! I just saw this and couldn't not laugh my ass off.

I just built an old school 2 piece rear seal 383 with carb and a moderate cam for my boat. With the shitty log manifolds (no aftermarket marine exhaust), stocker 487X iron heads, smaller valves, and a flat tappet cam at .480/.489 112 deg LSA, I'm making at least 300 HP with marine durability, judging from my max hull speed and more precisely, my jet pump WOT RPM according to the charts.

>300HP from a TURBO 383 LT1? That's pitiful! :fart:

LT1 heads are something I do know. Assuming this engine has unported aluminum versions, the flow is nowhere near what it should be. The reality is they are no better than the ZZ4 for flow. The intake ports can be pushed past 270 cfm with bigger valves and someone who has done it before. But stock, the intake side peaks at aroind 215 cfm at .450" at 28" H2O, and stay there to .600". On the exhaust side, they flow under 155. With a 1.60" valve, undercut and back cut, and a 5 angle seat, as far out on the valve as possible, all blended and polished, guide tapered, the works, you can get past 190 cfm easy. These heads have a good short turn in the intake, and just enough meat to get these results without hitting water.
No reason to spring for aftermarket castings, especially not the Edelbrocks. The least hassle option is the TFS 195cc and this particular engine, if properly tuned before and after, should see 50 horses at the wheels, assuming it has the Edelbrock intake already, as it should. Or for the sleeper look, extrude-hone the LT1 piece.

Oh, for a cam for this build, I advise the COMP 210/220-114 500/510, and 1.6:1 would make that 533/544. Add the beehive springs. If this doesn't give enough rpm, then I'd go for a custom cam.