Summer vacation starts with Getrag input shaft seal leak

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:58 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote:No, the blocker rings aren't what limit shift rail movement.
Is your trans vent line blocked? If the transmission heated from ambient to 150-170 degrees it would probably develop enough internal pressure to pop that cover out... if the seals didn't let it out first.

I have a hose hooked up to the vent line thats tucked under a bolt to keep it from pointing straight up. I guess its possible that it could be kinked at the top but it doesnt look like it. I'll reroute it just to be safe.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jun 19, 2007 10:50 pm

Is that the early style that vented to atmosphere or the later style that GM hooked up to the vacuum canister? If it's the later style, be careful where the tubing comes out of the case, as it can get bent and kink there.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:18 pm

It's a 1990 or 1991 gear case.. It has a little metal tube that comes out the top. I just stuck a hose on it so it wouldn't get dirt in it (the tube pointed straight up).

Boscolingus · Post by **Boscolingus** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:04 pm

look like someone tried to salvage that detent cover in the past from a previous rebuild / tearing into the transmission. Was talking to Chris about this and he says that ther's something like 250 left. He actually wants to start producing milled AL replacements for the detent cover as well as the sfift shaft cover.

Last I remember the cover was something like 8 bucks from GM

The Dark Side of Will · Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:30 pm

The shift shaft cover isn't hard to remove.
Milled aluminum is a waste unless it's a screw in cover. What do Chevy guys do to their freeze plugs to make sure they won't come out? Install screw in plugs...

Fastback86 · Post by **Fastback86** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:39 pm

Yeah, Steven salvaged it himself...

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:54 pm

If you remove them with screwdrivers prying from the sides, all you ahve to do is bend them back into shape and reinstall with silicone sealer. Punching a hole in the middle dosent make any sense. Milled covers dont make any sense either.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:30 pm

p8ntman442 wrote:If you remove them with screwdrivers prying from the sides

How would you remove one of these by prying from the sides? I've never managed to get them out that way. They're do deep; nothing to grab onto.
GM designed them to be pried out from the middle by leaving a hole in the metal underneath the rubber coating so you could punch through. Whether or not they intended for them to be reusable with some sealant or not, who knows. I just punched through the center and removed it with a screwdriver then banged the center flat. This way the sides wouldn't be messed up at all as I never touched them.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:58 pm

I took mine out with screwdrivers

Boscolingus · Post by **Boscolingus** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:50 pm

I've rebuilt several Getrags and I was never able to pry it out with a screw driver, and honestly I would be uncomfortable putting back in a part that came out too easy

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:45 pm

I never said it came out easy.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 3:00 am

I talked to Chris West on Saturday about this and he said he's had those covers come loose twice so apparently its not unheard of. Guess I will make sure to use an adhesive/sealant whenever i do these now. I was looking for a place to drill and tap a hole for a retainer but there isn't much area around the cover to work with. It may be possible to just drill the detent retainer block and put a bolt (and some sealant) through the cover.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 12:41 am

I got the Spec Stage III in.

DO NOT USE SPEC'S THROWOUT BEARINGS

The brand new TB my Stage III came with rattles like marbles in a tin can. The TB I had before (the one Spec gave me with the Stage II) was working fine and I was considering using it but wanted to be safe with the new one. Don't gamble with the bearings Spec provides. Get a good one (NGK). I don't think there's any harm in using a rattling TB and I certainly don't want to pull my drivetrain again so I'm just going to leave it until I need to get into it again for some other reason.

Anyway.. about the Spec Stage III. The clutch material looks like kevlar with some sort of metallic specks in it. It's not straight up kevlar pucks like I thought it would be. It looks more like tan-colored brake pads. There is VERY little material between the friction surface and the tops of the rivets... I'm worried that its not going to last long. However the material seems pretty aggressive so maybe it'll just take out my flywheel instead.
It's chattering some but I haven't abused it yet (still breaking it in). I'll have updates after 500 miles or so.

My old Spec Stage II never chattered; it engaged very smoothly much like stock. It also didn't really need any break-in period regardless of what Spec said.. 'cause I certainly never followed one! I blasted the damn thing from day 1 and it was working perfectly until that damn oil leak. The Stage II is Clutchtex.. 100% Kevlar fiber; it looks and feels like kevlar suede before it gets burnished with use. Very neat stuff.

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:10 pm

My SPEC TB was rattling for almost a year without any problems, just a noisy piece of shit!!! I finally got sick of it and replaced it while I had the engine out about a month ago. Mine was a stage III also and I though the same thing when I saw how much material was on there but pulling it out a year later and it looked like the day I got the thing, just dirty.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:15 am

It seems maybe I should have replaced that input shaft bearing anyway. Now I'm getting a bearing whirring sound at all RPMs above 3000 and it sounds lik eits coming from the transmission side of things. I hear it when the motor is not under load or is decelerating.
I'm going to do some various tests with the clutch engaged/disengaged and transmission in neutral and in gear to see if I can narrow it down at all.
It sounds like a belt rubbing badly against something but I took a look at my accessory belt and timing belt and they seem to be fine. Hopefully it ends up being something simple.. I reaaaalllly don't want to take my motor out again!

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:08 pm

I removed the slave cyl and pulled the release arm back by hand so the TOB is not making contact with the pressure plate. I still get a rattle.. and the whirring noise is still there. It's probably the input shaft bearing.

I'm going to pick up a spare Getrag at the junkyard this weekend if I can find one (50% off sale) and swap that in, then start collecting rebuild parts and whatnot for this one. Otherwise my car is going to be down all summer... again.

Boscolingus · Post by **Boscolingus** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:45 pm

If ya need help tearing it down and getting it done, I have Mondays and Tuesdays off, could do it at the shop - let me know.... I NEED to get my hands dirty, havent worked on a car in FOREVER cause I have no room where I'm at

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:00 pm

That'd be great. I'll be back in LA in the first week of September.. I'll try to collect all the necessary rebuild parts and whatnot before then.
For now I'm just going to put a spare transmission in so I can drive it around until I'm back down by WCF.

Boscolingus · Post by **Boscolingus** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:26 pm

sounds good - also found some real cheap G6 transmissions on car-part.com , you know you want to

...just did the search - $500.00 for a brand new trans appearently

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:44 pm

If only the gear ratios were any good...