Summer vacation starts with Getrag input shaft seal leak

General Fiero Maintenance including oil changes, air filters, suspension refreshes, restorations, painting, etc.

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Aaron
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Post by Aaron »

Also, didn't mention this before. They should be the same, but I am using 660 flexplate bolts, not flywheel bolts. They should be the same, but they could not be. So if the flywheel ones are different, Steven may not have issues.
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
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Post by p8ntman442 »

660 flywheel bolts are longer than flexplate bolts arnt they?
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Post by p8ntman442 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:The V6/60 flywheel bolts are not torque to yield. Steven just overtorqued the S@#$ out of his and yielded them that way.
heh, what an idiot, I mean who overtorques a bolt, really? heh, :uhoh:
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Post by Aaron »

p8ntman442 wrote:660 flywheel bolts are longer than flexplate bolts arnt they?
The bolt length wouldn't matter for this issue, only the bolt head width, or the shoulder height would.

As for them being long enough to hold it, they seemed plenty long enough, and grabbed a lot of threads, so I'm pretty sure they are the right size. Furthermore, the flexplate has a ring that goes around all 6 bolts, and the only purpose I can see it having is so they can use the same bolts without bottoming them out (Since the flexplate is much thinner than the flywheel).

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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Aaron wrote:
p8ntman442 wrote:660 flywheel bolts are longer than flexplate bolts arnt they?
The bolt length wouldn't matter for this issue, only the bolt head width, or the shoulder height would.

As for them being long enough to hold it, they seemed plenty long enough, and grabbed a lot of threads, so I'm pretty sure they are the right size. Furthermore, the flexplate has a ring that goes around all 6 bolts, and the only purpose I can see it having is so they can use the same bolts without bottoming them out (Since the flexplate is much thinner than the flywheel).
This is not correct. GM would never add a part to use a longer more expensive bolt. That's completely backwards from the kind of optimisation that happens in mass production.

Don't you think it's more likely that the plate is there to be a reinforcement in a high stress area of the flexplate?
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Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:The V6/60 flywheel bolts are not torque to yield.
Why does GM say to not reuse them? I can't think of any reason to not reuse bolts unless they have a) yielded b) have damaged threads c) have rounded heads.
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Post by Series8217 »

God damnit.

It happened again.

Transmission spilled fluid all over my brand new fucking clutch. It's probably the detent housing cover again. I used a brand new one and it was hard as hell to get in. Fit very tight. How does this shit fall out?

The clutch was a Spec Stage 3; it's a kevlar metallic material of some sort. Probably ruined from the tranny fluid? It's going to soak for awhile before I can get to it even..
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Post by p8ntman442 »

Series8217 wrote:God damnit.
Fit very tight. How does this shit fall out?

..
thermal expansion
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Post by Series8217 »

how this shit be overheatin' driving down the freeway at 65?
and why on the cold day this morning and not on the warm drive up on friday afternoon or going around town when my motor got really hot?
something tells me there should be more thermal expansion going on when i'm beating the everliving shit out of it and getting everything mighty hot; not cruising down the freeway at 65 mph in 50 degree weather..

i wonder if the tolerances are fucked on this tranny and the shift rods are popping the cover out.
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Post by Series8217 »

SPEC is going to replace the friction material for me for $60.
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Post by Blue Shift »

That fucking blows. I'll see what I can do to help you rip that biatch out and get it straightened out. God dammit, out cars never run simultaneously, and if they do, never for long...

If you get your car fixed, will mine spontaneously explode?

[edit]: A-rod, you're going to die.

Flexplate bolts on a flywheel is a bad idea to begin with. Then add turbo boost, and high revs, and the road to destruction will be paved in the remnants of your labors. A great wailing and gnashing of (gear) teeth will be heard. This is my prophecy, and I'm sticking to it. :lamer: :angel:
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Post by Aaron »

You guys keep claiming on how much of a hackjob and all that my car is, but your's are the ones that aren't running :scratch:
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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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Post by Series8217 »

Aaron wrote:You guys keep claiming on how much of a hackjob and all that my car is, but your's are the ones that aren't running :scratch:
A-wrong, I have over 15,000 miles on my swap. You too will understand how much of a hackjob your car really is once you try to drive it for awhile.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Doesn't he have 20 miles on his black car since the swap?
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Post by Aaron »

20 miles, with no real problems. And even if it does develop problems, well I'd hope so considering I'm hoping for double the RWHP.

And the maroon car's been running for quite some time now, and made a few long road trips.

But fact remains, both of my DOHC swaps are problem free. Better than Chris can say :thumbleft:
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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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Post by Blue Shift »

Aaron wrote:20 miles, with no real problems. And even if it does develop problems, well I'd hope so considering I'm hoping for double the RWHP.

And the maroon car's been running for quite some time now, and made a few long road trips.

But fact remains, both of my DOHC swaps are problem free. Better than Chris can say :thumbleft:
Hey, it took me about 60 miles before the particles that snuck into my oil took their toll. Simple mistake, though the closest thing to willingfully making decisions that result in engine damage for me. Don't count your chickens before they hatch - by 60 miles, you might unseat me for most costly engine fuckup. :la:

Anyhow, I got about ~3600 on the car and its running awesome now, aside from beyond bald rear tires. I suppose I could have installed my crate engine and been done with it to begin with, but hey, crate motors are for pussies :thumbleft:
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Post by Aaron »

Blue Shift wrote: Hey, it took me about 60 miles before the particles that snuck into my oil took their toll. Simple mistake, though the closest thing to willingfully making decisions that result in engine damage for me. Don't count your chickens before they hatch - by 60 miles, you might unseat me for most costly engine fuckup. :la:

Anyhow, I got about ~3600 on the car and its running awesome now, aside from beyond bald rear tires. I suppose I could have installed my crate engine and been done with it to begin with, but hey, crate motors are for pussies :thumbleft:
We'll see whose car is the pussy when my GT35r starts blowing. The only pussy there will be my tires.

Sweet, I've got 40 miles to go! And if everything goes to plan, it should see positive manifold pressure within those.

It is possible I will have oil issues, as I'm using Steven's used cooler, and I just did all of the work to my pan. We shall see. I'm going to be OCD'ing on filter changes in the next few months though.
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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Doesn't he have 20 miles on his black car since the swap?
Yeah and last I heard he was having electric water pump issues..
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Post by Blue Shift »

Series8217 wrote:
The Dark Side of Will wrote:Doesn't he have 20 miles on his black car since the swap?
Yeah and last I heard he was having electric water pump issues..
Water pumps are also for pussies. He should just switch it off.
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