Feelin the 2.hate
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
Feelin the 2.hate
So I just noticed that the majority of my coolant issue is rooted to the fact that the base of my thermostat housing is minus one bolt, yes, sheared off at the head... and is easily lifting from it's mount and venting into the engine bay.
At this point, I am honestly wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to invest in a 2.8L core with less KMs on it and swap the heads/intake from the old V6 onto it.
The current 2.8 has over 230,000kms.
2.8s can be had on a budget but how hard would this swap be? This is my (steadily deteriorating) daily driver. Could I have it back on the road in a weekend?
At this point, I am honestly wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to invest in a 2.8L core with less KMs on it and swap the heads/intake from the old V6 onto it.
The current 2.8 has over 230,000kms.
2.8s can be had on a budget but how hard would this swap be? This is my (steadily deteriorating) daily driver. Could I have it back on the road in a weekend?
Metallic Silver 1986 SE
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why not get one of those reverse drill tap things from hobo freight. I got mine there and suprisingly it wasn't a one time use tool. cost me like 4 bucks. Although if your just looking for an excuse to put a new motor in then... scrap what i said it's stuck.
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Ah, now that I look at it, too true.Jinxmutt wrote:The thermostat housing bolts into the lower intake, not the heads.
I'm debating backing the bolt out, I hope that'll solve my problems though.
I need to get a proper flush and fill done, but I can't until I've solved the little issue of getting the car to actually hold the coolant first. And I've gotta move fast because, like I said, this is my DD.
Guess I'm in the market for an easy out type bolt tap thing...
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I don't know of any wrecked 6's around me... I'm actually fairly sure there aren't any...Boscolingus wrote:with the amount of swaps going around right now and how cheap 2.8 parts are, I'd just grab another intake. This way you can clean up the motor and do some port work while solving the bolt problem
Being in SW Canada sucks...
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You think Vancouver sucks? Dude, I had 6.5-7 months of snow on the ground this year. Makes for a pretty short car season.... There should be quite a few fieros around that area? Sucks that you have to take a ferry everywhere you go.
Check out www.car-part.com Could be parts as close as Seattle, not a very far drive (or swim).
Check out www.car-part.com Could be parts as close as Seattle, not a very far drive (or swim).
However true that may be about your snow, it is equally true about Fiero parts for me...crzyone wrote:You think Vancouver sucks? Dude, I had 6.5-7 months of snow on the ground this year. Makes for a pretty short car season.... There should be quite a few fieros around that area? Sucks that you have to take a ferry everywhere you go.
Check out www.car-part.com Could be parts as close as Seattle, not a very far drive (or swim).
There is ONE engine in Abbottsford on car-part, the rest are all in washington or farther out...
You know about mandatory passports at the border now? I'm 19 and don't travel, so I'm effed... they take ages to get.
I wish I could just find 2.8 parts locally until I have the scratch saved for a 3.4 swap or something actually worth it =\
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actually i've had 2.8 top ends apart so much that i thought an hour was leaving enough time to sit around with a beer or two and scratch your head a few times.The Dark Side of Will wrote:An hour?
You've never had the top end of a Fiero 2.8 apart...
head gasket job on a 2.8 is an afternoon job. the lower intake should really only take about half an hour to swap out.
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That's exactly why you can do that in an hour... not just that YOU have done the job so many times, but that the job HAS BEEN DONE on your car so many times that everything is free and easy.
I think that Steven's estimate of a 4 hour clutch change is under the same circumstances.
I've done two Fiero clutches. Both too a solid weekend and both jobs were the first time the car had been apart since GM put it together the first time.
I think that Steven's estimate of a 4 hour clutch change is under the same circumstances.
I've done two Fiero clutches. Both too a solid weekend and both jobs were the first time the car had been apart since GM put it together the first time.
bah - i don't have a 2.8 anymore i have a 3.4The Dark Side of Will wrote:That's exactly why you can do that in an hour... not just that YOU have done the job so many times, but that the job HAS BEEN DONE on your car so many times that everything is free and easy.
I think that Steven's estimate of a 4 hour clutch change is under the same circumstances.
I've done two Fiero clutches. Both too a solid weekend and both jobs were the first time the car had been apart since GM put it together the first time.
getting to the lower intake has never taken more than half an hour. carefully putting everything back in could possibly take more than half an hour the first time around.
as for clutch jobs? i really hate fiero clutch jobs inside the car. its so difficult to get the input shaft to line up and slide all the way in i usually spend half an hour just muscling everything around with a pry bar untill it pops into place.
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That part of it's not too hard for me. The trans only weighs about 85#.
But when the car hasn't been apart EVER and the Y-pipe to manifold bolts are seized... and you elect to pull the manifold off because it's leaking anyway and two of the bolts are already broken...
I don't doubt that someone who's done the job before can do the job that fast on a car that's been apart before, I don't think someone green or someone experienced can do the job that fast on a car that hasn't been apart before.
But when the car hasn't been apart EVER and the Y-pipe to manifold bolts are seized... and you elect to pull the manifold off because it's leaking anyway and two of the bolts are already broken...
I don't doubt that someone who's done the job before can do the job that fast on a car that's been apart before, I don't think someone green or someone experienced can do the job that fast on a car that hasn't been apart before.
I wouldn't waste either the gas or the $20...
But only if you have access to a drill-press, and something that you can clamp that manifold down with... TIGHT.
Grind the stud flat, mark the exact center, punch it, and bore a small hole in the middle. Work your way up through bit sizes until you start getting aluminum flakes.
Tap a new thread one size up, modify the t-stat housing bolt hole accordingly, and buy yourself a congratulatory Kokanee.
You can do this with a hand-drill, but only if you are good at holding a drill straight.
But only if you have access to a drill-press, and something that you can clamp that manifold down with... TIGHT.
Grind the stud flat, mark the exact center, punch it, and bore a small hole in the middle. Work your way up through bit sizes until you start getting aluminum flakes.
Tap a new thread one size up, modify the t-stat housing bolt hole accordingly, and buy yourself a congratulatory Kokanee.
You can do this with a hand-drill, but only if you are good at holding a drill straight.
"Oh, this is too good. She thinks you're a servant... Cause you're black! This is greatest moment in my miserable life... Sooo-ey! I LOVE RACISM!"
and if you already have all the tools and taps. granted i usually buy the tool rather than getting someone else to do the work. but getting steel bolts out of aluminum can be near impossible even with the help of the old blue wrench (acetalyne torch).Mach10 wrote:I wouldn't waste either the gas or the $20...
But only if you have access to a drill-press, and something that you can clamp that manifold down with... TIGHT.
Grind the stud flat, mark the exact center, punch it, and bore a small hole in the middle. Work your way up through bit sizes until you start getting aluminum flakes.
Tap a new thread one size up, modify the t-stat housing bolt hole accordingly, and buy yourself a congratulatory Kokanee.
You can do this with a hand-drill, but only if you are good at holding a drill straight.