Direct port is in
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- Shaun41178(2)
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single fogger could prob put you around 240/300 with a safe tune
It all depends on how high you go with the jetting and just how far you want to push it.
I have about 20 hp left in this bitch with some more tuning but I am not going to push it anymore.
My a/f is really rich which is good because it helps keep things cool. Plugs looked great even with a sub 10:1 a/f ratio so I kept it with the current jetting. No reason to lean it out for 20 extra hp and run the risk of a melt down.
It all depends on how high you go with the jetting and just how far you want to push it.
I have about 20 hp left in this bitch with some more tuning but I am not going to push it anymore.
My a/f is really rich which is good because it helps keep things cool. Plugs looked great even with a sub 10:1 a/f ratio so I kept it with the current jetting. No reason to lean it out for 20 extra hp and run the risk of a melt down.
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- Shaun41178(2)
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yes. I have about 30 some or so odd jets here to tune the setup with. Be it fuel or nitrous. Changing the jets changes the amount of nitrous or fuel is shot through the fogger nozzle.
You then replace the fuel and/or nitrous jets to get the power and a/f ratio that you want.
My calculations were set up pretty good. I didnt' have to change a thing on the dyno. I did some math based on what jets I used on my old single fogger(tech 2 since I haev 2 tb's) and then calculated what jets I would need for each cylinder. Its still very rich which you can't tell by taht dyno but my a/f ratio is under 10:1. You can see it at the very end of the vid on the bottom right of the monitor. Thats the wideband.
the reason for this a/f readign is because the probe was in my tailpipe but I had my cutout open on this run that I posted. So you can see it lean, but up around the upper rpm's its showing around 11:1 or so. Thats with the cutout open the fuel is still making its way to the probe and showing rich.
The reason why its around 18:1 at like 3900 is because thats when the run was started. When at partial throttle and no load the car is very lean. The car is floored and the run starts to record. As you can see it only takes about 300 rpm for the graph to drop to a decent ratio. Thats because it takes the exh a few seconds to get from the cylinder to the probe in the tailpipe. rpm is able to rise a few hundred rpm by that point. If the probe is installed closer to the cylinder there would be a quicker reaction by the probe.
The jetting is set rich but the plugs even with it under 10:1 are perfectly clean upon removal. Its very rich but the cylinder temps are so high, its keeping the carbon off the plugs. So its burning hot enough to burn most of the fuel. I can lean it out a bit and pull more power, but not going to take the chance on this old motor.
Jets were 22 nitrous and 16 fuel
plugs gapped down to .040
93 pump
6 degrees base timing
950 psi bottle pressure.
You then replace the fuel and/or nitrous jets to get the power and a/f ratio that you want.
My calculations were set up pretty good. I didnt' have to change a thing on the dyno. I did some math based on what jets I used on my old single fogger(tech 2 since I haev 2 tb's) and then calculated what jets I would need for each cylinder. Its still very rich which you can't tell by taht dyno but my a/f ratio is under 10:1. You can see it at the very end of the vid on the bottom right of the monitor. Thats the wideband.
the reason for this a/f readign is because the probe was in my tailpipe but I had my cutout open on this run that I posted. So you can see it lean, but up around the upper rpm's its showing around 11:1 or so. Thats with the cutout open the fuel is still making its way to the probe and showing rich.
The reason why its around 18:1 at like 3900 is because thats when the run was started. When at partial throttle and no load the car is very lean. The car is floored and the run starts to record. As you can see it only takes about 300 rpm for the graph to drop to a decent ratio. Thats because it takes the exh a few seconds to get from the cylinder to the probe in the tailpipe. rpm is able to rise a few hundred rpm by that point. If the probe is installed closer to the cylinder there would be a quicker reaction by the probe.
The jetting is set rich but the plugs even with it under 10:1 are perfectly clean upon removal. Its very rich but the cylinder temps are so high, its keeping the carbon off the plugs. So its burning hot enough to burn most of the fuel. I can lean it out a bit and pull more power, but not going to take the chance on this old motor.
Jets were 22 nitrous and 16 fuel
plugs gapped down to .040
93 pump
6 degrees base timing
950 psi bottle pressure.
FieroPhrek working on that ls4 swap for 18 years and counting now. 18 years!!!!! LOL
530 whp is greater than 312
530 whp is greater than 312
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- Shaun41178(2)
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I would start with a 46/18 and go from there. You will prob end up needing larger jets then that for both nitrous and fuel but its prob a good starting point.donk_316 wrote:22 N20 and 16 fuel.
Thats per fogger? I was trying to figure out what i wanted to use and figured on 50 / 40/...
But if 22 / 16 gave you 70hp i might have my numbers wrong.
Dyno with wideband you will need. You need to know what the a/f is on nitrous esp when tuning it.
NOS has jet charts on their website for you for the v6 and what a 70 shot equates to. Thats a good place to start so it elimnates guesswork and gets you a nice start.
Will, as far as starting the dyno at a lower rpm we tried that. Off the bottle I think I have runs that started at like 2k rpm or so. On the bottle I told him to start the dyno at 3k. By the time he hit the gas and then hit the button to start the record on the dyno, the nitrous had kicked in and jumped 5-700 rpm already. The tach climbs that fast. I told him like 3 times to start at 3k. He did as I was in the car, but we just couldnt' get it right. Prob have to start at like 2500 rpm to get a reading starting around 3k or so.
I am thinking at 3k I am around 275 lb ft. Thats 4point9 territory!! But still not as fast I am sure. aFter all its only a v6
- Shaun41178(2)
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broke 3 more of the lines today.
First time driving it since the dyno
Reason? Not sure. What do I suspect? Bottle pressure. my bottle pressuer was at 1200 psi when I hit it. When I dynoed it was at 950. Could that cause 3 lines to break? maybe, maybe not. I am not sure. but its starting to get aggravating.
First time driving it since the dyno
Reason? Not sure. What do I suspect? Bottle pressure. my bottle pressuer was at 1200 psi when I hit it. When I dynoed it was at 950. Could that cause 3 lines to break? maybe, maybe not. I am not sure. but its starting to get aggravating.
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Had a backfire. I think I blew up my IAC. It idles at 2k rpm now.
It was totally my fualt. I was testing the lines and the car stalled. I went to restart it and it was flooded so I put my foot to the floor to clear it. Well guess what. the arming switch was on so when I put my foot to the floor it triggered the WOT switch and fuel and nitrous were flowing. 2 seconds later BOOM Huge backfire. Nothing too serious occured. It just wont' idle down now. I blew the iac tube off and I think I destroyed the IAC. I reattached the IAC but it still idles high. I need to check for vacuum leaks from anywhere else now too but its def not idleing correctly now.
Oh well.
Engine still runs perfect however.
It was totally my fualt. I was testing the lines and the car stalled. I went to restart it and it was flooded so I put my foot to the floor to clear it. Well guess what. the arming switch was on so when I put my foot to the floor it triggered the WOT switch and fuel and nitrous were flowing. 2 seconds later BOOM Huge backfire. Nothing too serious occured. It just wont' idle down now. I blew the iac tube off and I think I destroyed the IAC. I reattached the IAC but it still idles high. I need to check for vacuum leaks from anywhere else now too but its def not idleing correctly now.
Oh well.
Engine still runs perfect however.
- Shaun41178(2)
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- Shaun41178(2)
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Took it out today and no problems.
This was the first run I got in without the lines breaking
900 psi bottle pressure.
Started in second gear at about 3500 rpm. Ran it up through top of second, banged third and wound it out till 5500
Now I know that people on Fagland always say their 2.8's or 3.4's or whatever "pull" all teh way till redline. Of course if you see their dynos the darn engine falls off up top. So I dont' know how they can say it "pulls' all teh way to redline.
Well I will say this. while I was in 3rd gear and on the juice, I could feel the car accelerating the whole way at an increasing speed. As the rpms rose I could feel the car going faster and faster. Like actually feel it in the famous butt o meter. In essence what I am saying is I could feel the powerband getting stronger the whole way till about 5500 rpm.
Which shows on the dyno graphs. the more rpm I gain the more power I make pretty much till redline. Slight dropoff from 5200-6000 of about 6 hp.
It still feels pretty slow to me however. I was doing solo runs so its hard to tell just how fast I am accelerating without another car next to me trying to keep up you know? Like its hard to tell how fast it is when you race yourself. I will try to find some cars this weekend to run to see how I compare.
I will say this. Its def way faster then my old 85 GT and it feels a hell of a lot faster then before I got the direct port hooked up when I layed down 180 hp. I dont' want to bench race or speculate but I think I am going to have to for entertainments sake. Since it feels much faster then my old 85 Gt I am going to guess its in the 13's if I can drive it, but no idea on mph untill I run someone in which I can find out what they trap. I am however thinking about 99-103 though based on my hp numbers.
This was the first run I got in without the lines breaking
900 psi bottle pressure.
Started in second gear at about 3500 rpm. Ran it up through top of second, banged third and wound it out till 5500
Now I know that people on Fagland always say their 2.8's or 3.4's or whatever "pull" all teh way till redline. Of course if you see their dynos the darn engine falls off up top. So I dont' know how they can say it "pulls' all teh way to redline.
Well I will say this. while I was in 3rd gear and on the juice, I could feel the car accelerating the whole way at an increasing speed. As the rpms rose I could feel the car going faster and faster. Like actually feel it in the famous butt o meter. In essence what I am saying is I could feel the powerband getting stronger the whole way till about 5500 rpm.
Which shows on the dyno graphs. the more rpm I gain the more power I make pretty much till redline. Slight dropoff from 5200-6000 of about 6 hp.
It still feels pretty slow to me however. I was doing solo runs so its hard to tell just how fast I am accelerating without another car next to me trying to keep up you know? Like its hard to tell how fast it is when you race yourself. I will try to find some cars this weekend to run to see how I compare.
I will say this. Its def way faster then my old 85 GT and it feels a hell of a lot faster then before I got the direct port hooked up when I layed down 180 hp. I dont' want to bench race or speculate but I think I am going to have to for entertainments sake. Since it feels much faster then my old 85 Gt I am going to guess its in the 13's if I can drive it, but no idea on mph untill I run someone in which I can find out what they trap. I am however thinking about 99-103 though based on my hp numbers.