Real Fiero Tech

This is my first Fiero and from my understanding they are hydraulic, not cable. What could be causing my clutch to be so hard to push? If it was cable I would swear it was jammed up against something.

I understand your point Aaron but the vehicle is 20 years old and I have absolutly no information about the history of it. With all that stuff I have replaced I still havn't even broken $100 yet. I feel it is a small price to pay for preventative maintenance. Might not be broke now, but it will same...

Mach10 wrote:Disconnect the connector from the coil, turn the key to "on" and check for voltage at the pink wire.

I'll have my wife pickup a multimeter tommorrow and check it this weekend.

Okay... finally got to test out the Fiero today. Kind of a pain in the ass driving back and forth between my school parking lot and apartment to work on it. ECU is throwing out a Code 12 so there are no registered issues there. As for spark, hooked up a new plug to a wire and grounded the side of it...

Aaron wrote:If you ground the SES post on the ALDL terminal, it will flash you the codes via the SES light on the dash. Your scanner is a paperclip :thumbleft:

:thumbup:

Right on Aaron. Will check codes and spark plug.

So it wasn't the ignition module. Good thing you blindly spent however much it was though. Diagnose, then fix. Have you checked for any SES codes? No it wasn't the Ignition module however now I know it won't be the ignition module any time soon either. :) Fuses are all good, first thing I checked. ...

Another thing I just thought about. This car has an alarm on it that is very old. The original owner didn't even have a pad on his keychain for it. If this alarm has a starter kill and the alarm is manfunctioning could that cause the problem? How would I get around that?

I know.. It's 2:30am here and I'm impatient. lol I ended up driving to the parking lot where my car is about 40 min ago. Reinstalled the Distributor and tried to jump it with the Bimmer. Still nothing. I did smell gas pretty strong so I held the pedal to the floor while cranking in case it was flood...

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Make sure you get the polarity right on the coil.

The plastic piece on the original one broke off during removal hence the reason they are two seperate wires in the picture. The new one already comes with the harness so it should be fine.

Oh yeah btw. I am assuming that motor oil is to be used to lubricate the rod before i put it back in the housing? Yes I am going to sand it with some 1500 grit to polish it back up first.

Well the distributor has been disassmbled and brought into the house. Here are a few of the pics. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/dajinn/Distributor1.jpg Shaft being removed from the housing. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/dajinn/removingshaft.jpg Shaft removed & magnet still atta...

Okay... I got the cap & rotor off, took out the ignition module and cleaned the base. I can't however figure out how to get this metal/magnet section off the distributor. The Pick-up coil is attached to the inside/underside of it however I can't get it off. The book says to remove the distributo...

wow.. Extremely helpful and informative responses. Thank you soo much. Yeah I decided I was gonna go ahead and spend the money to buy a new module, cap and rotor since I dont' know the history of the vehicle. All the parts are all fairly inexpensive anyways. Also didn't really know how to check the ...

Thank you all for the responses. I will pick up an Ignition Module from Autozone tommorrow and try it out. If not I'll be moving on to the fuel system and see if it has any pressure. Hopefully the Ignition Module does it. I'll let you all know how it goes.

1986 2.8l V6. It turns over but does not start. I tried changing out the coil and spraying starter fluid into the intake manifold but still nothing. Can anyone else make any suggestions on what else to check? I'm not very familiar with how to read a multimeter but if I need to get one to troubleshoo...