Sooooo..... what do the quickest PR 60*'s run?

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:01 am

I'm hoping for, and expecting to at least run a 14 second 1/4 with all the mods I do.

It's going to take some tuning and probably the nitrous to get below a 13.5, but I think I'll do it unless my tranny lets go. But that is still to be seen.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:34 am

I wouldnt' get yoru hopes up too high. That autot ranny is going to kill you. I might see a 14.5 in your future but thats probably it on the motor.

If you do spray it, you might hit mid to low 13's pending on the size kit you use at probably around 100 mph or so. Quick for a v6 fiero

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:15 am

I'm kinda hoping I break it (which is bound to happen) because I really want to run a built 4T65E with a piggyback controller.

THE PUNISHER · Post by **THE PUNISHER** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:22 am

Aaron wrote:
crzyone wrote:You are so hung up on money. If he has the cash and would rather someone else build it then that is his choice. Cost doesn't matter to some people.

He got what he wanted, what he paid for. Doesn't matter if you think it's too expensive. Maybe someday when you have a house, a job and a life you won't find the time to work on your stuff either. $7k isn't exactly a lot of money anyways.
He doesn't have the cash, that's why he's stuck in a 20 year old econo-box. Notice everyone who has the cash has moved up? What do you drive? Trevor? Donk?
.

your a fuckin Idiot , peoples financial position has little to do with their tastes.

U would think a kid who claims to have a 996 TT and a POS Camaro would understand that.

CincinnatiFiero · Post by **CincinnatiFiero** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:43 pm

I'll be interested to see what your car runs Chris, you have one of the most modified 60* n/a's out there that I know of. I really think you should go with a 282, 284, or 287 and call it a day. At least something manual, a 4 speed actually would probably be faster if its the right gearing. 4T65-E is a lot of time and money when a stick would be faster. Do you have a TH-125 in it right now?

Honest Don · Post by **Honest Don** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:13 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:I wouldnt' get yoru hopes up too high. That autot ranny is going to kill you. I might see a 14.5 in your future but thats probably it on the motor.

If you do spray it, you might hit mid to low 13's pending on the size kit you use at probably around 100 mph or so. Quick for a v6 fiero

why is the auto tranny a bad thing? it'd need a shift kit for sure but, brake-boosting and staying in boost between shifts sounds like quite an advantage. not to mention, its almost always easier to launch an auto

CincinnatiFiero · Post by **CincinnatiFiero** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:14 pm

TH125 is kind of a giant sack of shit IMO. Chris is n/a so staying in boost doesn't matter.

Pyrthian · Post by **Pyrthian** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:04 am

Honest Don wrote:why is the auto tranny a bad thing? it'd need a shift kit for sure but, brake-boosting and staying in boost between shifts sounds like quite an advantage. not to mention, its almost always easier to launch an auto

look at the stock from the factory 1/4 mile times - almost a FULL SECOND between the auto & the 4-speed

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:58 am

That's a combination of weight, parasitic loss and tuning. I've only driven an auto Fiero once or twice YEARS ago, so I don't recall how well they work, but my 6000 AWD shifts pretty well. The 125's were GM's last bulletproof transmission. They're calibrated so that at stock output they'll last forever, even when the driver has his foot in the throttle body all the time. My 6000 has 1/4 M miles on it...

Honest Don · Post by **Honest Don** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:27 pm

Pyrthian wrote:
Honest Don wrote:why is the auto tranny a bad thing? it'd need a shift kit for sure but, brake-boosting and staying in boost between shifts sounds like quite an advantage. not to mention, its almost always easier to launch an auto
look at the stock from the factory 1/4 mile times - almost a FULL SECOND between the auto & the 4-speed

get a shift kit and learn how to stall one up...

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 1:12 am

Haven't you ever wanted more power out of your 6000? Having driven a 3.1/3-speed Beretta, I can only imagine the hell that would be adding 600-1000 lbs to that.

I bet a 5-speed, AWD 6000 with a mildly modded TGP motor (260hp or so) would be pretty wicked to drive. Torque on demand, and the traction to hold it down. I know a TGP 5-speed, even at just 195whp, was quite a trip to drive.

However, after driving a FWD W-body plenty in the snow, I am perfectly happy with the FWD. I wouldn't mind the AWD, but being down so much on power would make it much less fun to drive all around, and I really like having the 225hp DOHC powertrain. Though with the newer cars getting faster and faster, a 60hp or so bump would be greatly appreciated.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:02 am

Aaron wrote:Haven't you ever wanted more power out of your 6000?

Always. That's nothing new. Bitches don't know 'bout my AWD.

Aaron wrote:I bet a 5-speed, AWD 6000 with a mildly modded TGP motor (260hp or so) would be pretty wicked to drive.

Where am I going to find that transmission?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 1:08 pm

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:16 pm

Aaron wrote:Evo?

Yeah, that sounds like a straight forward drvetrain swap... It's a 6000, why would it need a 5 speed or more power?

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:51 pm

There was a FWD 6000 STE 5 speed on eBay a few months ago... it looked like it was in REALLY good shape too.

I've heard from McCreery that he knew of a guy who got FTD pretty regularly in a modded 6000... :afrocool:

Why does ANYTHING need more power? :thumbleft:

Also, modding the 6000 to a modest level is turning out to be stoopidly easy. Fiero rear Konis work on the front. Minivan front springs increase the spring rate from 85 ppi to 110 ppi. 16x8 Grand Prix wheels bolt right on to the front and 16x7 Bonneville wheels bolt right on to the back (w/ 1/4" wheel spacers to clear the AWD toe links). In terms of improvement for the buck I've never seen anything better. Probably out-handles a lot of Fieros in that condition.

I can also use Fiero cradle and control arm poly bushings (or control arm roller bearings :scratch: ) all around, and those are on my list. With the rear air suspension, I can build a 6" turn buckle to adjust the link to the ride height switch and set the ride height wherever I want. I can install a solenoid valve between the two air struts to radically increase rear roll stiffness.

Since it's a 60 degree v6, I could go all the way to a 3900 pretty easily, although I do have to give some respect to the fact that it's a TH125. I was thinking a turbo 3100 w/ built transmission and 38/32 chain ratio (over 100 mph in 2nd gear at 6500 RPM).

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:21 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote: Since it's a 60 degree v6, I could go all the way to a 3900 pretty easily, although I do have to give some respect to the fact that it's a TH125. I was thinking a turbo 3100 w/ built transmission and 38/32 chain ratio (over 100 mph in 2nd gear at 6500 RPM).

Over 100mph in 2nd? Ouch. The 3900 better be making 550-600hp to make use of that.

THE PUNISHER · Post by **THE PUNISHER** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:45 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote:There was a FWD 6000 STE 5 speed on eBay a few months ago... it looked like it was in REALLY good shape too.

I've heard from McCreery that he knew of a guy who got FTD pretty regularly in a modded 6000... :afrocool:

Why does ANYTHING need more power? :thumbleft:

Also, modding the 6000 to a modest level is turning out to be stoopidly easy. Fiero rear Konis work on the front. Minivan front springs increase the spring rate from 85 ppi to 110 ppi. 16x8 Grand Prix wheels bolt right on to the front and 16x7 Bonneville wheels bolt right on to the back (w/ 1/4" wheel spacers to clear the AWD toe links). In terms of improvement for the buck I've never seen anything better. Probably out-handles a lot of Fieros in that condition.

I can also use Fiero cradle and control arm poly bushings (or control arm roller bearings :scratch: ) all around, and those are on my list. With the rear air suspension, I can build a 6" turn buckle to adjust the link to the ride height switch and set the ride height wherever I want. I can install a solenoid valve between the two air struts to radically increase rear roll stiffness.

Since it's a 60 degree v6, I could go all the way to a 3900 pretty easily, although I do have to give some respect to the fact that it's a TH125. I was thinking a turbo 3100 w/ built transmission and 38/32 chain ratio (over 100 mph in 2nd gear at 6500 RPM).

That car was nuts , I am glad he stopped coming out , I felt like a douche canoe..more so than normal